dipstick issue installing FAST 102 on LS1 with stock LS2 rails
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dipstick issue installing FAST 102 on LS1 with stock LS2 rails
So I installed my FAST 102 intake today with LS2 rails (spaced up 1/2" to make them fit with my SVO red tops). First impression over my LS6 intake--this thing is HUGE! The Map sensor connector is practically touching the firewall but most troubling thing is that it looks like my dipstick tube is being pushed up by the LS2 rails and not sitting where it should be. I haven't finished the install and haven't checked if the bolt on the tube is barely lining up or not, but it looks like it aint gonna work.
Is there a way to make it work or do I need to go with some FAST rails?
Is there a way to make it work or do I need to go with some FAST rails?
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Thanks man,
I just got it all back together. The dipstick tube does ride on the top of the LS2 rails and rubs the underside of the hood. I was able to get the bolt back in that holds the dipstick tube in place, but I probably ended up bending the bracket a little because it doesn't want to sit as it should with it being pushed up and to the side a little by the LS2 rails (spaced up 1/2" for my LS1 injectors). So now its either bend it or go with some FAST rails.
I also had to grind the waterpump as others have mentioned, do the TB coolant bypass mod and add a 90deg fitting to the vacuum tube that connects to the back. Also the coolant crossover tube on the front had to be bent down a significant amount to accommodate the new hardware. (none of which is in the instructions for those of you who choose this path) The clip on the MAP sensor IS touching the firewall, but for now it appears to be nice and secure with the screw-down feature they added to this intake. The stop adjustment is nicely done and I could easily get the IAC counts right where they should be with only .55V TPS.
So for A4 cars with stock dipstick I say go with the FAST rails
One other thing, with the LS1 & LS6 intakes it was no problem getting a torque wrench on the 10 bolts, but with these funky bolts and the higher position of the intake I was not able to get it on the 5 in the back. If any of you have a method, please pass it on!
I just got it all back together. The dipstick tube does ride on the top of the LS2 rails and rubs the underside of the hood. I was able to get the bolt back in that holds the dipstick tube in place, but I probably ended up bending the bracket a little because it doesn't want to sit as it should with it being pushed up and to the side a little by the LS2 rails (spaced up 1/2" for my LS1 injectors). So now its either bend it or go with some FAST rails.
I also had to grind the waterpump as others have mentioned, do the TB coolant bypass mod and add a 90deg fitting to the vacuum tube that connects to the back. Also the coolant crossover tube on the front had to be bent down a significant amount to accommodate the new hardware. (none of which is in the instructions for those of you who choose this path) The clip on the MAP sensor IS touching the firewall, but for now it appears to be nice and secure with the screw-down feature they added to this intake. The stop adjustment is nicely done and I could easily get the IAC counts right where they should be with only .55V TPS.
So for A4 cars with stock dipstick I say go with the FAST rails
One other thing, with the LS1 & LS6 intakes it was no problem getting a torque wrench on the 10 bolts, but with these funky bolts and the higher position of the intake I was not able to get it on the 5 in the back. If any of you have a method, please pass it on!
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I have fast rails and still had to push the dipstick all the way to the left.
I wish i have have moved the map to the front, mounting it in the back puts it damn close to the firewall on mine.
What grinding did you do?
I wish i have have moved the map to the front, mounting it in the back puts it damn close to the firewall on mine.
What grinding did you do?
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#12
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Grrrrrrr.... just got done with this install and let me tell you it was a PITA compared to my LS7 version Fast. That frigin' map sensor in the back definately hits the firewall and i finally just gave up and moved it to the front! The waterpump bolt had to be removed and converted to a low profile one and grinding on the top of the pump definately had to be done. All in all it wasn't just too bad but alot of this stuff should be addressed ahead of time as taking the thing in and out a couple times gets old. This thing is "HUGE" also compared to the older Fast 90! One good thing after getting her back together the thing fired right up and idled nice so the tune isn't too far off. Hopefully the gains will help...........
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Bent dipstick FTW!
Here are some before and after images. You can see that "before," the tube sticks way up and its resting on the back of the psgr rail and the crossover tube. It was also rubbing against the hood.
I removed the intake, tightened the dipstick bolt and carefully bent the tube in two stages. 1) pulled the tube forward a bit and sandwiched wood between the tube and the firewall and carefully bent it up and back slightly with a long tube over the end of the dipstick tube. 2) put wood on the valley cover and under the tube and pulled it down slightly to bend down the exit "flip-up" of the tube. Results are in the "after" images. The tube no longer touches the back of the psgr rail and just rests a little on the crossover tube and is well clear of the hood. Use care if you do this to not tweak the open end of the tube.
While I had the intake off I ground the WP a little bit more and relocated the MAP to the front. You can tuck the extension wires into the loom with the injector connectors on the psgr side and it looks clean.
Here are some before and after images. You can see that "before," the tube sticks way up and its resting on the back of the psgr rail and the crossover tube. It was also rubbing against the hood.
I removed the intake, tightened the dipstick bolt and carefully bent the tube in two stages. 1) pulled the tube forward a bit and sandwiched wood between the tube and the firewall and carefully bent it up and back slightly with a long tube over the end of the dipstick tube. 2) put wood on the valley cover and under the tube and pulled it down slightly to bend down the exit "flip-up" of the tube. Results are in the "after" images. The tube no longer touches the back of the psgr rail and just rests a little on the crossover tube and is well clear of the hood. Use care if you do this to not tweak the open end of the tube.
While I had the intake off I ground the WP a little bit more and relocated the MAP to the front. You can tuck the extension wires into the loom with the injector connectors on the psgr side and it looks clean.