Trap Speed after torque converter change?
01-19-2011, 07:09 PM
#41
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Ohh I agree, you definatly need dr's or at the very least a decent tire that could hook it a little. Just saying it still has other advatages other than launching hard. It is also fun to put street tires up in smoke within a second. So if you like doing awesome burnouts and don't want a stall for performance than that would be another way lol
I knew there was a reason I stopped posting up my opinion on converters and gears..
01-19-2011, 08:07 PM
#45
I came in to give you my opinion on a converter, which i think you would find some useful. If you dont want it, I wont post in your thread.
I by no means meant that negative.. I have posted with you before and respect you as a member.
01-19-2011, 08:16 PM
#48
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Much faster passing times. Much better shift extenstion to keep you in your rpm band and make you accelerate alot quicker. When you punch it going say 50 the car hits higher rpms with a high stall and you will take off much quicker. There are so many good things about a stall besides the first gear. Although you need good decent tires if your going to get a stall.
accelerate faster at any speed.
On the other hand, a whole bunch of people say they trap the same
after getting higher stall converters.
Isn't trap speed directly related to acceleration?
01-19-2011, 08:21 PM
#50
A 93mph car can walk a 95mph car from a 40 roll by 1+ car lengths all day long, ask me how I know. I have seen it more than a handful of times with first hand experience. The more mods the two cars have, the more this will vary.. for stock cars there arent as many variations but it is still there.
01-19-2011, 08:22 PM
#51
[QUOTE=speedtigger;14381947]Yeah, that was definitely not the best example as the black car had a horsepower advantage.
So..................... Anyone else have before and after experience? Back in the day I would expect to see a 1.5 to 2.5 mph loss with a high stall. Just trying to see evidence of these new converters efficiency.[/QUOTE]
From what I understand and have read on here, the converters no a days are way more efficient than yesterdays. From what I understand if you lose mph with todays converters its because they are setup wrong. I see most ets staying about the same as before without the stall and sometimes iv seen it go up a couple. I though I saw in a previous thread that Thunderstrucks et went up a couple mph in the whole 1/4.
I think you might be better off getting answers in the drag racing tech section. Its drag related.
So..................... Anyone else have before and after experience? Back in the day I would expect to see a 1.5 to 2.5 mph loss with a high stall. Just trying to see evidence of these new converters efficiency.[/QUOTE]
From what I understand and have read on here, the converters no a days are way more efficient than yesterdays. From what I understand if you lose mph with todays converters its because they are setup wrong. I see most ets staying about the same as before without the stall and sometimes iv seen it go up a couple. I though I saw in a previous thread that Thunderstrucks et went up a couple mph in the whole 1/4.
I think you might be better off getting answers in the drag racing tech section. Its drag related.
01-19-2011, 08:45 PM
#53
That is not exact but it is damn close.
Wow. I was not originally planning to buy a stall converter other than the small one that came with my transmission. But, after hearing these testimonials, I can't imagine leaving 6 tenths on the table. Nothing outside of nitrous can give you that much et for that money.
My only gripe about stall converters is the way they drive and sound around town.
There are all these posts on here about how their 3600 stall drives just like stock until you get on it. These claims are appearing to be slightly rosey eyed reports. I just went on YouTube and watched some of the videos of guys driving around town in their Yank converters and they sound just like the old slush box converters from back when I was racing. The videos I saw on youtube, you can barely even tell when the car shifts at part throttle. All the gears just run together in one long drone.
There are all these posts on here about how their 3600 stall drives just like stock until you get on it. These claims are appearing to be slightly rosey eyed reports. I just went on YouTube and watched some of the videos of guys driving around town in their Yank converters and they sound just like the old slush box converters from back when I was racing. The videos I saw on youtube, you can barely even tell when the car shifts at part throttle. All the gears just run together in one long drone.
A 3600 will not drive like stock. For the performance gains, sure it does... But if we are talking 98% street car, you don't care too much about that.
A 3200 will drive very close to stock but still noticeable that there is a converter there. Once you go WOT, there will be a huge difference.
Now keep in mind, these are lock up converters (I'm just assuming you know little, if you know this already then awesome).. Which means once you hit XXmph (usually around 45mph) the converters lock, same mpg and same characteristics as a stock converter.
As I'm sure you know, it doesn't take 3500-4000 RPMs to get a 4000 converter moving. It takes around 2K RPMs for a 4000 to move pretty decent and should have one steady raise in MPH until lock up.
Post up a video anyway if you would. I will be able to tell by the sound of the engine what is going on.
I am looking at 3 companies right now. Circle D, PTC and Yank. Yank is all the rage on this site, but PTC seems to be the most popular on Yellow Bullet and TurboBuick.com. PTC is nearly 3 hundred bucks cheaper than Circle D and Yank and has every bit as good of a rep, but more in the serious race circles than the street guys.
I am looking at 3 companies right now. Circle D, PTC and Yank. Yank is all the rage on this site, but PTC seems to be the most popular on Yellow Bullet and TurboBuick.com. PTC is nearly 3 hundred bucks cheaper than Circle D and Yank and has every bit as good of a rep, but more in the serious race circles than the street guys.
I had a guy "argue" with me earlier in another thread that Yank was better than PTC.. He had never even taken a ride in a PTC car. How could he possibly spread this information without knowing that? =nutswinger and bad info
With an efficient converter (PTC Yank Etc) you probably will.
lol. I wanted to gain a mph or 2
I just brought it bitches!!!!!
HAHA
OP... I don't know what you want out of your car fully so I don't have a converter selection opinion for you. But almost no matter what I would suggest a minimum of a 3000 for any A4.
01-19-2011, 08:56 PM
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Absolutely not.. there are so many variables that come into play with trap, not as many as et, but more than people try to act like.
A 93mph car can walk a 95mph car from a 40 roll by 1+ car lengths all day long, ask me how I know. I have seen it more than a handful of times with first hand experience. The more mods the two cars have, the more this will vary.. for stock cars there arent as many variations but it is still there.
A 93mph car can walk a 95mph car from a 40 roll by 1+ car lengths all day long, ask me how I know. I have seen it more than a handful of times with first hand experience. The more mods the two cars have, the more this will vary.. for stock cars there arent as many variations but it is still there.
01-19-2011, 09:03 PM
#58
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he gained 22.36 MPH with stock stall, and 21.68 MPH with
3500 on the big end.
That means that he was accelerating slower from about 88 to 110 MPH.
Is this typical for higher stalls?
01-19-2011, 09:13 PM
#60
A 3200 will drive very close to stock but still noticeable that there is a converter there. Once you go WOT, there will be a huge difference.
Now keep in mind, these are lock up converters (I'm just assuming you know little, if you know this already then awesome).. Which means once you hit XXmph (usually around 45mph) the converters lock
PTC is an amazing company... ESPECIALLY for the money. I don't have a CLUE why more people on here don't run their converters. Yank doesn't even need to do any damn advertising on this website with all the nutswingers here, it is quite pathetic.
OP... I don't know what you want out of your car fully so I don't have a converter selection opinion for you. But almost no matter what I would suggest a minimum of a 3000 for any A4.
Now keep in mind, these are lock up converters (I'm just assuming you know little, if you know this already then awesome).. Which means once you hit XXmph (usually around 45mph) the converters lock
PTC is an amazing company... ESPECIALLY for the money. I don't have a CLUE why more people on here don't run their converters. Yank doesn't even need to do any damn advertising on this website with all the nutswingers here, it is quite pathetic.
OP... I don't know what you want out of your car fully so I don't have a converter selection opinion for you. But almost no matter what I would suggest a minimum of a 3000 for any A4.
I sent all my specs and desired results to several companies. Based on their response and reputation, PTC, Circle D and Yank are the front runners. They all suggested a roughly 3000 - 3200 converter based on what I told them.
PTC seems to be the gold standard everywhere but on this site. There is definitely Yank fever around here. That is not a bad thing, but you have to look beyond this forum to see the whole market. The guys at yellow bullet are about as hard core as it gets and they talkem' up over there.
If I do buy a converter, I might as well order some drag radials at the same time. My Cobra was less fun to drive with the pulley than it was stock on regular radials because all it did was spin. At 50 mph it would go sideways. That is amusing a couple times, after that it was just frustrating.
I regards to what I know, I have been doing this for a very long time. To give you an idea, I qualified for the Division 2 NHRA championships in 1989.