Ohh I agree, you definatly need dr's or at the very least a decent tire that could hook it a little. Just saying it still has other advatages other than launching hard. It is also fun to put street tires up in smoke within a second. So if you like doing awesome burnouts and don't want a stall for performance than that would be another way lol

 

Bring it son

 

I won't mention any names, but I notice when certain members get on a thread, it often goes a bit sideways.

 

I think I know who ur talking about

 

I don't know if you mean me.. but if you do i would be more than happy to pm you my response to some of these incorrect posts. I correct information when i see its wrong pt opinion being treated as fact, whether on thread topic or not.

I came in to give you my opinion on a converter, which i think you would find some useful. If you dont want it, I wont post in your thread.

I by no means meant that negative.. I have posted with you before and respect you as a member.

 

I think everyones guilty!

 

Who would that be z99?

 

So, on one hand, you are saying, that a car with a higher stall will
accelerate faster at any speed.
On the other hand, a whole bunch of people say they trap the same
after getting higher stall converters.
Isn't trap speed directly related to acceleration?

 

I think everybody has got off topic I was j.k when I said I know who he is talking about lol. Clearly everyone has changed the subject a little. Lets hear ur opinions man

 

Absolutely not.. there are so many variables that come into play with trap, not as many as et, but more than people try to act like.

A 93mph car can walk a 95mph car from a 40 roll by 1+ car lengths all day long, ask me how I know. I have seen it more than a handful of times with first hand experience. The more mods the two cars have, the more this will vary.. for stock cars there arent as many variations but it is still there.

 

[QUOTE=speedtigger;14381947]Yeah, that was definitely not the best example as the black car had a horsepower advantage.

So..................... Anyone else have before and after experience? Back in the day I would expect to see a 1.5 to 2.5 mph loss with a high stall. Just trying to see evidence of these new converters efficiency.[/QUOTE]

From what I understand and have read on here, the converters no a days are way more efficient than yesterdays. From what I understand if you lose mph with todays converters its because they are setup wrong. I see most ets staying about the same as before without the stall and sometimes iv seen it go up a couple. I though I saw in a previous thread that Thunderstrucks et went up a couple mph in the whole 1/4.
I think you might be better off getting answers in the drag racing tech section. Its drag related.

 

Before converter Full bolt ons DA in the 500-600 range on both days.
1.985 8.280@87.81 12.735@110.17
After TCI 3500
1.71 7.76@88.68 12.21@110.36

 

.1 in the 60'=.2 in the et .3 60'=.6 in the et
That is not exact but it is damn close.
It would be a HUGE mistake not buying a converter. It is the heart of an A4 build without a doubt. It will completely make or break a setup. It is THE mod for A4s.
There is no doubt about the shifts sounding more like one continuous gear.. Gears/tuning/etc can help with this but not a ton.

A 3600 will not drive like stock. For the performance gains, sure it does... But if we are talking 98% street car, you don't care too much about that.

A 3200 will drive very close to stock but still noticeable that there is a converter there. Once you go WOT, there will be a huge difference.

Now keep in mind, these are lock up converters (I'm just assuming you know little, if you know this already then awesome).. Which means once you hit XXmph (usually around 45mph) the converters lock, same mpg and same characteristics as a stock converter.
As I'm sure you know, it doesn't take 3500-4000 RPMs to get a 4000 converter moving. It takes around 2K RPMs for a 4000 to move pretty decent and should have one steady raise in MPH until lock up.

PTC is an amazing company... ESPECIALLY for the money. I don't have a CLUE why more people on here don't run their converters. Yank doesn't even need to do any damn advertising on this website with all the nutswingers here, it is quite pathetic. I am not talking Yank down (they are one of the best) but there are other companies that give them a run for their money (if not better imo) when it comes to making converters.

I had a guy "argue" with me earlier in another thread that Yank was better than PTC.. He had never even taken a ride in a PTC car. How could he possibly spread this information without knowing that? =nutswinger and bad info

With an efficient converter (PTC Yank Etc) you probably will.

Same exact mods... Manual wins every time from a roll. Why? More drive train loss with an auto. From a dig, A4 wins every time.

If you have a cam..... To not make it hell while cruising at low speeds/in lock up or sitting at idle in D.

I just brought it bitches!!!!!


HAHA




OP... I don't know what you want out of your car fully so I don't have a converter selection opinion for you. But almost no matter what I would suggest a minimum of a 3000 for any A4.

 

Wow, that is a pretty big street converter and you did not lose any MPH and sped up 5 tenths. Strong numbers.

 

I love my 3200 in my dd bolt-on car.

 

It isn't the same as back in the day.

Of course this is opinion but.... In the LsX world a 3500 would be considered average for a street car. 4000+ would be considered big... A 3200- would be considered small (3000- would be tiny).

 

Wow plz explain this to me more. Very interested

 

Maybe my math is off or something, but according to above post
he gained 22.36 MPH with stock stall, and 21.68 MPH with
3500 on the big end.
That means that he was accelerating slower from about 88 to 110 MPH.
Is this typical for higher stalls?

 

What converter is it? Do you wish you went bigger? What gear do you have? Any 1/4 mile stats?

 

My car does not have the same transmission as most of your cars, but It should be roughly the same situation. I have a TH200-4R. Also, my transmission is not computer controlled like most of yours. My torque converter clutch is hard wired to only lock up in overdrive.

I sent all my specs and desired results to several companies. Based on their response and reputation, PTC, Circle D and Yank are the front runners. They all suggested a roughly 3000 - 3200 converter based on what I told them.

PTC seems to be the gold standard everywhere but on this site. There is definitely Yank fever around here. That is not a bad thing, but you have to look beyond this forum to see the whole market. The guys at yellow bullet are about as hard core as it gets and they talkem' up over there.

If I do buy a converter, I might as well order some drag radials at the same time. My Cobra was less fun to drive with the pulley than it was stock on regular radials because all it did was spin. At 50 mph it would go sideways. That is amusing a couple times, after that it was just frustrating.

I regards to what I know, I have been doing this for a very long time. To give you an idea, I qualified for the Division 2 NHRA championships in 1989.