My SS3600 install thread
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Yup. I was gonna ask if anyone has any advice for that. I can see 6 bolts to the bellhousing but I have no clue about the other 2 up on top. Looks like its gonna be a nightmair! Any advice?
Loosened up trans pan and let it drain...
Just changed fluid, filter, and gasket 3k miles ago so shouldnt need new stuff for that...
Look how clean my pan is. Thats from when I did the maintenance 3k miles ago
Took out o2s after reinstalling the pan...
Took off shift cable arm...
Unbolted rear of driveshaft and pulled it out of trans...
Unbolted torque arm all I could. Looks like this isnt comming out untill I drop the trans a little...
Just changed fluid, filter, and gasket 3k miles ago so shouldnt need new stuff for that...
Look how clean my pan is. Thats from when I did the maintenance 3k miles ago
Took out o2s after reinstalling the pan...
Took off shift cable arm...
Unbolted rear of driveshaft and pulled it out of trans...
Unbolted torque arm all I could. Looks like this isnt comming out untill I drop the trans a little...
Last edited by senicalj4579; Mar 14, 2011 at 08:14 PM.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 305
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From: Blue Springs, Missouri
Soon as you take the trans cross member off and lower the trans down a bit you will be able to see the top bolts and its not to hard to get to them, I also leave the trans dip stick in the car and now take it down with the trans
I was just reading how that dipstick bolt is a big pita but remembered guys on here saying to leave it in and guide it back during the install.
How long of extentions do you think I would need for top bellhousing bolts? I saw one article that said two 24" extentions
[/QUOTE]With this guy, you just have to undo the top bolt, then open the clamshell and lift the tq arm out of it. the outside piece comes off, and you dont have to worry about the rest.
And definitly LEAVE the dipstick tube bolted up!! I just loosened it up some, to get more play for reinstallation.. I made the mistake of trying to line it up AFTER the trans was in.. Lets just say, i dropped the trans to put it in, since it was easier.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I just pulled my tranny again yesterday.....I have done it a bunch. To get to the top bolts you need to get the tail of the trans down as far as it will go, which isnt much. You need about 3 feet of extensions, you should be turning the wratchet behind the tail of the trans. Go cross-ways for the top bolts, meaning for the left top, go in from the right of the tail, doesn't make much sense but it works for the highest bolts. Put a swivel directly behind socket, then your extensions. Push forward and stabilize the extensions as you are turning, otherwise they may try to slip off. Make sure the converter bolts are undone before separating the trans from the motor. The trans doesn't actually have to come completely out, you can keep it in the tunnel and simply swap converter/flexplate and put it right back up to the motor. Inspect the rear main seal while you are under there. You should have gotten the 4k. 
If you get into a bind and need more space you can A. place a scissor jack between the tunnel and the trans and force it down to gain some precious clearance, be gentle B. undo the motor mount through bolts C. drop the k-member some...or support the k member and raise the body some.
If you get into a bind and need more space you can A. place a scissor jack between the tunnel and the trans and force it down to gain some precious clearance, be gentle B. undo the motor mount through bolts C. drop the k-member some...or support the k member and raise the body some.
With this guy, you just have to undo the top bolt, then open the clamshell and lift the tq arm out of it. the outside piece comes off, and you dont have to worry about the rest.
And definitly LEAVE the dipstick tube bolted up!! I just loosened it up some, to get more play for reinstallation.. I made the mistake of trying to line it up AFTER the trans was in.. Lets just say, i dropped the trans to put it in, since it was easier.[/QUOTE]
Hey thanks man im gonna get back at it tomoro morning and try that.
I will def leave the dipstick tube
Really good info thanks Steve. I read somewhere that they use 2' of extentions but ill go to autozone and get more.
I understand about going in crossways, it does sound odd but whatever works!
I can only imagine how its going to be when its time to torque the bolts when reinstalling
And yea yea yea 4k stall blah blah blah lol. Idk what its like driving a stalled auto yet so I gotta live and learn to find out if I should have gone bigger. Ill find out soon enough
Really good info ill be using it tomorro thanks
And definitly LEAVE the dipstick tube bolted up!! I just loosened it up some, to get more play for reinstallation.. I made the mistake of trying to line it up AFTER the trans was in.. Lets just say, i dropped the trans to put it in, since it was easier.[/QUOTE]
Hey thanks man im gonna get back at it tomoro morning and try that.
I will def leave the dipstick tube
I just pulled my tranny again yesterday.....I have done it a bunch. To get to the top bolts you need to get the tail of the trans down as far as it will go, which isnt much. You need about 3 feet of extensions, you should be turning the wratchet behind the tail of the trans. Go cross-ways for the top bolts, meaning for the left top, go in from the right of the tail, doesn't make much sense but it works for the highest bolts. Put a swivel directly behind socket, then your extensions. Push forward and stabilize the extensions as you are turning, otherwise they may try to slip off. Make sure the converter bolts are undone before separating the trans from the motor. The trans doesn't actually have to come completely out, you can keep it in the tunnel and simply swap converter/flexplate and put it right back up to the motor. Inspect the rear main seal while you are under there. You should have gotten the 4k.
If you get into a bind and need more space you can A. place a scissor jack between the tunnel and the trans and force it down to gain some precious clearance, be gentle B. undo the motor mount through bolts C. drop the k-member some...or support the k member and raise the body some.
If you get into a bind and need more space you can A. place a scissor jack between the tunnel and the trans and force it down to gain some precious clearance, be gentle B. undo the motor mount through bolts C. drop the k-member some...or support the k member and raise the body some.
I understand about going in crossways, it does sound odd but whatever works!
I can only imagine how its going to be when its time to torque the bolts when reinstalling
And yea yea yea 4k stall blah blah blah lol. Idk what its like driving a stalled auto yet so I gotta live and learn to find out if I should have gone bigger. Ill find out soon enough
Really good info ill be using it tomorro thanks
Yes pull the ypipe down. The trans will drop like another 8 inches I gurantee you. I could not get my top bolts tell I cut the back of my exhaust in half lol. Makes it s o much easier. You can leave the ypipe connected. There was room enuf to squeze mine in and out lol
Another thing is to make sure the spacing is correct when going to bolt it up.
By the time were done with this thread, i think well have a full step-by-step procedure for it. lol
Thats the plan but I forgot to say to disconnect the battery lol
Last edited by senicalj4579; Mar 15, 2011 at 12:47 AM.