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4000 Yank stall question

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Old May 19, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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Default 4000 Yank stall question

Hi friends, Im very worry about stall converter.
Im from Mexico
Mine is a 98 ls1 A4 Camaro; mods: 233/239 texas speed package, 243 ported heads, no A/C, headers, 3" true duals, 373 gears, M/T tires, repro, all bolts-on.

Before I changed actaully converter, I used a 3000 stall, (usually at 2400 flash=moving), now I can make the the same, no more, a friend told me that I have to prestall? WOT and then stalled again to raise 3500rpms?
My question is:
Since I change my stall, I have worse number of 1/4 mille, like .3 or .4 dec, since then, I´ve tried from 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, etc, and no results!
Some people told me that my stall and high rpms deads!? and I need to reintall my 3000 converter?
What do u think?
thanks a lot Im very confused!
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Old May 20, 2011 | 10:18 AM
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try just letting it flash and see how it feels, I run a yank 4k ss in my car, I never stall it up and wait on the light, I personally just wait at idle on the green stab the gas let it flash and go
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Sy99T/A
try just letting it flash and see how it feels, I run a yank 4k ss in my car, I never stall it up and wait on the light, I personally just wait at idle on the green stab the gas let it flash and go
ok..
But can you explain me how flash it? I usually 2000rpm and wait light and wot!.
thanks
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sy99T/A
try just letting it flash and see how it feels, I run a yank 4k ss in my car, I never stall it up and wait on the light, I personally just wait at idle on the green stab the gas let it flash and go
That's what I do with my FTI. I tried to brake stall it just to see but it doesn't seem to like that. Now I just punch it off idle and it works great.

But can you explain me how flash it? I usually 2000rpm and wait light and wot!.
thanks
Basically "flashing" the converter is just flooring it from idle. I'll pull up the staging beam and put my left foot on the brake. When the light goes green I'll let out the brake and at this same time floor the gas. I find it important to use both feet as sometimes the car can creep forward and trip the beams early.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Quick Sh0t xMLx
That's what I do with my FTI. I tried to brake stall it just to see but it doesn't seem to like that. Now I just punch it off idle and it works great.
Basically "flashing" the converter is just flooring it from idle. I'll pull up the staging beam and put my left foot on the brake. When the light goes green I'll let out the brake and at this same time floor the gas. I find it important to use both feet as sometimes the car can creep forward and trip the beams early.
Ok, so you prefer from idle, left on brake and right on gas, only waiting to WOT right?
And a question ?
a high stall will affect in 1/4 mille, because some people told me that a hgh stall affect at high velocity, (lost of power) but excellent power at beginnig.??
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tonokologo
Ok, so you prefer from idle, left on brake and right on gas, only waiting to WOT right?
And a question ?
a high stall will affect in 1/4 mille, because some people told me that a hgh stall affect at high velocity, (lost of power) but excellent power at beginnig.??
Yea you got it, just let off the brake and go WOT with the right instantly. Go try it out and you'll notice it'll probably pull a bit harder. Let the converter do all the work for you

The higher the STR of a stall("tightness") the more power loss you'll have up top. I assume you have the SS4000 which is a pretty tight stall so you'll have a "decent" amount of power loss. I wouldn't worry about that with your setup. The benefits far outweigh the drawbacks.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Quick Sh0t xMLx
Yea you got it, just let off the brake and go WOT with the right instantly. Go try it out and you'll notice it'll probably pull a bit harder. Let the converter do all the work for you

The higher the STR of a stall("tightness") the more power loss you'll have up top. I assume you have the SS4000 which is a pretty tight stall so you'll have a "decent" amount of power loss. I wouldn't worry about that with your setup. The benefits far outweigh the drawbacks.
ok,. i will try the way u say. thanks a lot.
Sometimes I worried about it.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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yes, dont hit gas "wot" until light turns green, that is "flash"
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Old May 20, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Sy99T/A
yes, dont hit gas "wot" until light turns green, that is "flash"
every day i learn something.. je thanks a lot.!!
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Old May 21, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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stall it up as high as it will go...gives the best results and just makes sense...where does your car make the most tq/hp thats is where you want to be in the power band...so off idle it takes longer to get there since you are starting at 1k, now if it is brake stalled to 3k you are that much close to making more power off the line and will have a better 60ft...now dont get me wrong a flash will still give a decent 60ft but not the best...

1.29 60fts here with my off the shelf ss4000 in a head cam 346, 3000lbs raceweight car...131mph
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Old May 21, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by chrs1313
stall it up as high as it will go...gives the best results and just makes sense...where does your car make the most tq/hp thats is where you want to be in the power band...so off idle it takes longer to get there since you are starting at 1k, now if it is brake stalled to 3k you are that much close to making more power off the line and will have a better 60ft...now dont get me wrong a flash will still give a decent 60ft but not the best...

1.29 60fts here with my off the shelf ss4000 in a head cam 346, 3000lbs raceweight car...131mph
ok. I will try it! but I already do it that way, but I didnat have good results!. I will try next week! i´l post it
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