Hey guy's I could use some advice on my recently purchased Trans Go shift kit. The shop I took it to says to do the install right they need to drop the trans? Is that correct? I thought it could be done by working the valve body any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! BTW 460LE with 65K. Trans shifts fine, shift points were changed via tune for 3:73's....

 

Yeah it includes some springs that go in the clutch packs, but apparently lots of people don't install that....

 

Which kit did you get? SK-4L60E, HD2, etc?

 

I have heard the HD-2 has valve-body and internal modifications to install the complete kit.

 

HD2

I think you may be right.....

 

The HD2 kit is a very good mod, period. It is not necessary to install the supplied return springs, BUT if the tranny is out you can actually build the tranny around the kit (springs, clearances, and other little tricks). It usually turns out to be a great build. FWIW.

Mec

 

After doing a little more digging, I think this sums it up the best.

I talked to another trans shop, they stated they can do it with the trans in the car. I was also told it does require quite a bit of modification to the valve body.....Does that sound correct?

 

Not really alot of modding to the VB. Just remove and replace of a few parts. Some drilling to the separator plate, a few larger springs changes and thats about it. There are some vendors in here that have done quite a bit of research and R&D with these kits and have done some tweeks to the kit to optimize it, but just follow the supplied instructions CAREFULLY. Mark the steps off as you go, you'll do fine.

Mec

 

They probably dont want to deal with the tight spaces on things like the Servo mods. HD2 replaces the plastic boost valve, and some plastic plungers with metal and changes out springs, accumulator spacers, check ball movement, drilling the separator plate in certain areas using a stencil...etc. Not all of the kit may be used as it comes in "settings" for street/race...etc. For instance adding some more spacers to the accumulators will increase shift force. Some trans shops do not use the all out race settings though as it can be too hard on the trans for street/strip or even full strip built units (subjective).

Shift kits are all in the valve body (except for the boost valve which is in the case and the servo internals which are on the side of the case).

Some might say its easier to do it in the car as far as check ball placement after doing the separator plate mod. Dropping the entire valve body down on to the check ***** which are sitting on the trans can be unnerving as you hope they remained in there intricately placed spots and didnt squirm into the next vain. But, as previously eluded to, some things can be more of a PITA to get to with it wedged up in the car.

This is also a good time to install a deep pan with a drain plug (2004 GTO 4L60E, 05/06 GTO 65E and TBSS 70E already have a factory deep pan, but no drain plug).

If the trans is coming out now would also be a good time to switch to stainless braided -6AN cooling lines.

P.S. The HD2 kit will mechanically alter and improve shift pressure, firmness and most importantly, shift speed. Stock shift pressure in the tune should remain at 90.1 MAX and not be artificially increased or the trans can be subject to damage. The HD2 or any shift kit is also a good mod due to the elimination of PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) settings and "slip in" comfort shifts/engagement that accelerate wear. See my trans tuning guide for more info on optimizing the trans and converter settings.

 

short answer.....NO you do not need to drop the trans.......FYI.....getting the 4th gear servo off ...out is a PITA...there is very little physical room to get to it...i recommend you leave that mod alone too.....i think ALL f bods have the corvette servo.....mine did

 

You really need to accomplish that part of the kit also (2-4 servo) because of shift timing in regards to band clearance and apply/release. It is a pain to get to because of limited space but if you take it out a piece at a time and go back in reverse order it works out. The cover is a pain to get off if you dont know the trick. After you take the retainer off the cover, pull on the cover O ring with a hook scribe. The harder you pull, the skinner the seal gets and the cover comes right off. those who have fought with this before know what I am talking about.

Mec

 

10-4 SJ is correct. I'll hack that mess out of my post.

 

Did mine with it in the car

 

To all that posted, thank you for the great response! I checked further and found a local trans shop that I think has a better understanding of what needs to be done. the only problem is that he's backed up about a week!

 

Hmm if I had to guess there is a good reason he's backed up.

 

Give me your email and I will send you the modifications that I do to keep it "user friendly" at light throttle, and more aggressive when you are at WOT.