If my torque converter is back 15/16", and its clunked three times and spins freely with no pressure put on it but my engine won't turn over by hand when connected to the trans, is my pump lunched? Or are there different converters - one with say a smaller diameter nose or something?
thanks
Scott

 

I've never taken a measurement from the bellhousing to the converter pads on a 60e to be honest with you. But, I do know that you should be able to rotate the converter freely once the transmission is bolted to the engine. If you cannot rotate either the converter or the engine, loosen the bellhousing bolts and slide the tranny back then see if you can rotate them both.

It is possible for the converter to have shifted when you installed the transmission. If you still have issues after rechecking your work, then feel free to give me a call to discuss it in detail.

g

 

What type of transmission and converter are we talking about? Most setups measure just over an inch when stabbed all the way in the trans.

Chris

 

Its a 4l65 on an LS2. I don't know if it matters what the Ls2 came out of or what the 65 came out of but a C6 and a Denali respectively. I've already had it the trans on and off three times with the same thing each time. 3 clunks, it won't go in any further, everything spins, attach the trans and neither the engine or the converter will turn.

 

What converter are you running? What flexplate?

Chris

 

At this point I doubt you've damaged the pump. However there is a mismatch of parts here somehow.

In addition to the info Chris is asking about... have you verified that the flexplate is facing the correct direction?

When you bolt the tranny up, does the flexplate interfere with the flexplate? Can you slide the converter back and forth at all?

g

 

Its supposed to be a stock flexplate and converter. The dish in the center of the plate goes towards the engine. The converter is the 3 bolt one. The nose is about 1". When its all bolted up I can't spin it. I'll check to see if it will slip back and forth. Thanks for the help so far.

 

The converter won't move period with the trans bolted up.

 

We need some pics.... Trans bell housing showing the shafts, the converter from a few different angles, and the flexplate on the crank.

Chris

 

Here's a start:


I took the verter off and put it back on. I've got a 1 1/16ths now.

 

How about a close up of the crank, it looks funny...

Chris

 

The pilot adapter/bushing on the rear of the crank does not match the pilot on the front of the converter...

 

yeah and deff don't force the converter to turn that will deff break the pump

 

I just thought that was the end of the crank. How do I change it and what do I need?

 

Three more pics. I have bolted it up 3 times already and I noticed the verter will woble a bit. Is that normal? The engine was a stick - would that use a different bushing. Should I change it or the converter?

 

yeah that pilot bearing needs to come out its for the stick, i cant remember if there is a bushing for the auto or not though.

 

It should just pull out, might need a slide hammer to get it out though. The pilot will then measure ~1.703 and the converter will fit properly. No bearing or bushing for the converter.

Chris

 

What I thot...
CHECK the pump!

 

Thank you gentlemen! How do I check the pump?

 

Another item I see that needs correcting, I thought those flexplates only bolted up one way with the bolt pattern? There is a index hole in the bolt pattern of the flexplate that should correspond to a index hole in the crank. And yes that pilot bushings is for a manual transmission, just use the proper tool, a blind hole puller most auto parts store lend those out for free, don't use those grease or wet towel methods, that is a no-no on LS engines. Definitely check the front pump if you tightened all the bellhousing bolts down, you forced the convertor into the front pump possibly damaging the pump, front bushing and seal and possibly the little tabs on the torque convertor snout on the transmission side.