4l60e Vs. 4l80e

He's one of those ppl. who refuses to admit that he's wrong. I guess he's just toooo
But anyways, he ordered some upgraded parts for his stock 4L60E, and it STILL broke, and I've been telling him forever to step it up, but he's argued w/ me.........until now.
His arguement now, is that the 4L80E is too heavy
Could someone please tell me the weight difference, and the advantages and disadvantages to both????
I'm tryin to help him out, but w/o some good proof, he's just gonna keep wasting his dad's money
-Will
you probably wont break one, but with the money you use up buying the trans, making it fit, fabricating stuff to put it all together and building up some power to actually turn the thing, you could have a near-BULLETPROOF 4L60E.
IMO, its not worth the effort.
SDB
What would ya'll suggest as far a building up a 4l60e?
-Will
What would ya'll suggest as far a building up a 4l60e?
-Will
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Some of these trannies would not even last 50 miles and some as much as 1000
After loosing my mind I picked up a tranny with 50,000 miles( (Deep Blue Z`s stock unit actually) that had a broken sunshell. This time I would try something different. we put this together as close to stock as possible . hi energy clutches exept the 3-4 ones we put the new Z-Pak . It is 15 single sided clutches. New kevlar band all new seals and gastkets. I didnt even put in a shift kit. I broke 2 drums using a shift kit in the other trannys
After 2500 miles / 100 passes and just about that many od to 2nd downshifts/ 10 dyno pulls I feel alot of that extra heavy duty parts are just possible problems. Stock trannys work great. There are alot of guys running 10`s on stock units.
It is easy to get sucked into buying all these extra parts too. The way they are presented to you make you think that you need them.
BTW i have 431 hp through a unlocked converter in a 3600 # car. Unless your friend if making alot more than that he should be fine with a setp simular to mine
If he upgrades anything I would stick to the beast sunshell , clutches and a band.
Stay away from
Billiet servos.
Hardened input shaft and drum
I have had multiple problems with these.
Anyway this is just my opinion
Hope some of this helps
Im sure there are plenty of other opinions out there but I did have alot of exerience with these. I know there are plenty of guys that have all these parts and no issues but Ican only speak about what has worked for me.
A 4l65 like deep blue z has is a good option also . The 4l80 seems like alot of work But im sure that might be a more expensive option also.
Last edited by offaxis; Mar 8, 2004 at 02:35 PM.
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clutches hold and you break something hard,
where a "wimpy" stock servo lets the clutches
slip and protects the gears/shafts/shell/whatever?
If so then I guess you'd just want clutches that
tolerate more heat, and not much more "grabby"?
More clutches and steels would hopefully spread
the heat out (if they share properly) and lower
the point temperatures?
Interesting.
Don't drive it much though. Sucks man costing me $900 to get it freshened up. 





