zooguy

iTrader: (1)

what is the real cost of converting an auto 4l60e to a t56.

i think i got a hint from the tranny that its close to time for another rebuild. This is prolly going out soon. what happens is the 3-4 clutches keep going out ... if i get on it 1-2 shift is fine but the 2-3 shift does not happen fast enough and the revs get higher than they normally do and hit the limiter @6800 bounce 2-4 times then a sluggish shift. Car driver fine is i stay out of it.

this will be rebuild #3 in the last year ... i know that i beat the snot out of my car and the 4l60e is considered to be a weak tranny.

So i am looking at maybe doing a t56 swap (then a 12bolt rear end soon after). what is the real cost cause i know that i cant just buy a 6-speed tranny and go, there are other things i will have to buy ... is there a list out there?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You'll spend 2k getting into a used t56 setup. 4l60s, even when built tend to lag a little on the 2>3. It could be simply something in your tune that needs some tweaking. The 4l60e can only do what it is commanded to do. What type of hp level are you currently at? Maybe you need a better tuner or trans builder......or go spend 2k to go slower

Gilbert@Ace Racing

The mods in your sig, is that it? The 60e is failing with those modifications? There's no doubt in my mind that there is significant room for improvement.

Was your transmission purchased from a Sponsor? Or was it built by a local guy who says he can build them? Just curious. The 4L60E is not the sort of transmission that can be taken to high levels by just anyone. Seriously, there are guys who buy the best of thebest parts but still cannot keep a 3/4 clutch alive to save their skin.

I have seen this over and over year after year. I'm curious to know how much you spent on the original build... Vs buying a rowdy unit from a Sponsor. Not bashing, jus saying that if all you have is minor bolt ons your transmssion should be living just fine.

My trannies are 15% off right now, there's a sale thread. Take a look at it and give me a call today. I will help you make your decision whether you go wit me or not... I want to see yo make the right choice for yourself whichever way you go.

g

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

for starters (and i told the guy who built the tranny) i drive the **** out of my car, i drive it hard with lots of WOT. i am young and dumb still... and also learning that if i keep doing this **** will keep breaking. so i am beginning to calm down.

well i spent 2100 on this auto that is in the car and this will be the 3rd rebuild in less than a year and first time after it was rebuilt the tranny died after 6 months, 6 days and 5200 miles. i think i am maybe close to the same mark agian. (not happy):m ad2:

on the a dyno jet i have done 280hp and 315tq

the tranny has a set of corvette servos in it, billet ones were going to be $100 bux more. a better valve body (or so i am told) shift kit, bigger / better sun gear, a set of "heavy duty" clutches, and i have 8 clutches instead of 6 (once again i was told that but dont really know what it means).

he is a good builder cause many of the "heavy hitters" around here in the OKC area use him to build their trannies in their 800,900, 1000+ hp cars

he did the tranny in the red truck with the shell, corvette , and white mustang. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSZ05X3H-xE

this guy can build them ... but i am getting a lil mad at this point.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

also the car has the stock converter and it locks up just fine. just 3-4 clutches keep killing them selfs

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

so the car had

@144053 miles ....on it when the first tranny died and got it rebuilt
@149353 miles ....(5300 miles later).................. it took a dump on the 2-3 clutches
@153113 miles ....(3760 miles after rebuild #2)....it begins hitting the revlimiter on a 2-3 shift.


nothing changed with the tune ... they cant just change themselves. i am sure its the tranny ... it began acting this way a few days before last time they went out. this time i wont ignore it and keep driving hard.

engage grandma driver mode *facepalm*

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Maybe the problem is that nothing changed in the tune. You might be well
off to have a look at the line pressure when you're messing around at WOT
and part throttle (the more likely trouble area) and see if you're going all
in, too late to give the clutches the authority they need.

I don't think you're making enough torque to kill a properly fed 4L60E.
But starve it and you can kill it quick enough. Especially if your tuner
jacked your airflow model for "lean is mean" and maybe the K&N has
coked your MAF up nicely too , so the PCM thinks load is even lower
than reality. The profile of line% vs load is stupid on LS1 F-bodies
and that's before people make with the voodoo mods. LT1, I dunno.
But it's the same GM and only a couple years less learning about
shaving pump load for CAFE.

RedRallyeZ

iTrader: (20)

if you're looking into a t56 swap, i spent $3K on mine. that was a used Morris built trans (used to be a sponsor here) new monster clutch, new tick master + slave, and the rest used parts.

Mine was a similar story, i had had my 4l60e tear up for the second time in about 8 months and i just gave up on it. I loved my stalled auto, I'm just glad i went with something different this time. Both have advantages.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

Thor has his Hammer
Batman has his Belt
Captain America has his Shield
and I have my right Foot

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

??? English please

are you trying to say maybe the line pressure is low at WOT?

Gilbert@Ace Racing

Thats exactly what he is trying to say, and thats exactly why I brought it up. And thats exactly why I build 60's that do not rely on PCM commanded line pressure. I've lost too many trannys to shitty tuners who didnt have a clue what they were doing.

There are zero good reasons as to why you are losing clutches and other parts in your tranny at such short intervals. Especially for the money you spent. You're not the first guy whos abused a 60e in a car that makes less that 300 horsepower and complains that it won't stay together. Do some research here, then go back and read my first post.

Johawk

iTrader: (2)

4L60 is weak but not that weak. I did a T56 swap cause I wanted a T56 car. total cost by the time I changed out hydraulics that went bad almost instantly is about 2400. I bought the swap with nearly every nut and bolt for 2k. Obviously had to make some changes to the harness and reprogram the PCM.

I love to shift and love the way a car sounds as it climbs through the gears. If you love the stall and the bang-screech shifts then it may be worth while to figure out what is burning down your 4L60.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I would suspect that WOT probably sees full line, but you'd want to ask Mr.
Line Gauge about that. What you see at part throttle though is anybody's
guess once somebody's put their fingers in the tune. Just a little less line
than you need to pull in and hold the torque, and you'll glaze the frictions
and lose the grab for good. Doesn't take much time at all for 200HP worth
of waste heat to make a mess of something. Got to get it done and move
on before the temperature in the clutch packs or band spikes beyond where
you start to crack tranny fluid or organic clutch binder.

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

did some more reading and driving ... and found out something ...
from a slow roll or dig (in 1st ) if i WOT the car the 1-2 shift is fine ... the 2-3 shift hits the revlimiter

BUT if i am doing a faster roll 35-65 and and WOT the car, it drops down to second then the 2-3 shift is fine?

WTF does that mean?

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQtWYgdl9mg

skip to 3:50 to see the actual effect of a 3-4 clutch failure.

if you want to hear me rant for a bit about why i am more pissed than a normal failure. just let it play from the start

zooguy

iTrader: (1)

update: today driving back from my girlfriends house... it did something funny i dont normally do, i manually shifted it from 1st up through the gears. so i repeated it a few times and got some thing figured out ... i think.

if i put it down into 1st then get over 3000 rpm then bump to 2nd and do the same, take it over 3000 rpms, then bump in to 3rd it will go in to 3rd and 4th and drive like normal untill i get under 35 mph ..... could it be that my valve body is going bad or a forward sprag?