Won't up shift at wot!!!
#21
Launching!
iTrader: (8)
I am in the process of buying a street/strip rebuild kit for it now and I will let you know if I have any success with it. They funny thing is that after the initial tune for the stall the transmission ran fine and there was no issue with the WOT shifts until about a month after so thats what leads the tuner to believe this is the culprit. Hopefully getting it rebuilt will solve my issues, I will let you know, all it takes is money LOL.
#22
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Similar problem
Hmmm, here's my case after a high performance rebuild:
(Car has been tuned for stall, gear, motor)
Launch in 2nd WOT, 2-3 shifts at 5500, commanded at 5200.
Low-power shift 1-2 (manual or auto), WOT through 2nd, 2-3 shifts at 5500.
High power shift 1-2 (manual or auto), WOT through 2nd, 2-3 hits limiter at 6500. If kept at WOT at limiter, it will shift into 3rd. If I let off in 2nd (selector in 3 or D), trans stays in 2nd briefly, then goes into 3 or D.
In all three cases (when shifting manually), I would move the selector into 3 or D early while accelerating in 2nd, not making the shift manually when it was time. This allowed the trans to be full auto during the 2-3 shift.
(Car has been tuned for stall, gear, motor)
Launch in 2nd WOT, 2-3 shifts at 5500, commanded at 5200.
Low-power shift 1-2 (manual or auto), WOT through 2nd, 2-3 shifts at 5500.
High power shift 1-2 (manual or auto), WOT through 2nd, 2-3 hits limiter at 6500. If kept at WOT at limiter, it will shift into 3rd. If I let off in 2nd (selector in 3 or D), trans stays in 2nd briefly, then goes into 3 or D.
In all three cases (when shifting manually), I would move the selector into 3 or D early while accelerating in 2nd, not making the shift manually when it was time. This allowed the trans to be full auto during the 2-3 shift.
#23
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As redbird555 agrees, in theory disconnecting the MAF should be fine even at WOT. This puts the PCM into "speed density mode" and the stock PCM uses the VE table (instead of the MAF table) to determine the load on the engine. It certainly is safe with a perfectly running car. However, in the extremely remote chance that e.g. your MAP (now the critical sensor) was flaky or your fuel pressure was low, it could result in a lean condition at WOT. You are probably 99% safe; I just don't want my novice advice to cause someone to blow their engine.
A scan would clear up a lot of questions, like whether this
is a matter of intention or action (Trans Current Gear is
the signal of intent - did it move on time,and the shift is
late or hung, or has it not decided to shift and you can
chase "why?"? Action would be seen in your input/output
shaft ratios, how quickly and abruptly they follow gear
select.
is a matter of intention or action (Trans Current Gear is
the signal of intent - did it move on time,and the shift is
late or hung, or has it not decided to shift and you can
chase "why?"? Action would be seen in your input/output
shaft ratios, how quickly and abruptly they follow gear
select.
I am in the process of buying a street/strip rebuild kit for it now and I will let you know if I have any success with it. They funny thing is that after the initial tune for the stall the transmission ran fine and there was no issue with the WOT shifts until about a month after so thats what leads the tuner to believe this is the culprit. Hopefully getting it rebuilt will solve my issues, I will let you know, all it takes is money LOL.
#25
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I go into a shop and tell them to get some data logging done on it and from that they will be able to see where the problem is... Do I got that right? Sorry if these questions are stupid, this is my first "new" car...
#26
Moderator
As I understand JimmyBlue, you would examine the logs yourself, look for the PCM's request to change a gear and check how quickly (if at all) the RPMs changed. Not trivial, but do-able.
#27
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So If the PCM requests a gear change and the RPMs don't change does that mean there is a problem with the PCM?
#28
Moderator
Back to your problem - since the trans does shift into each gear in some situations, it cannot be any of the electrical problems I mentioned above. Since both your old and new trans have the same problem, that makes it less likely that the new trans has a problem. Most likely IMHO, is the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) or a slipping torque converter. Torque converters do go bad, especially if a worn valve body on your old trans caused the converter's lock-up clutch to clip and overheat.
#29
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, it usually means the transmission has a problem. Could be as simple as a bad electrical shift solenoid ($15 part easy to replace), or worn clutches (requiring a rebuild). It could also be a badly slipping torque converter. In theory (and very rare) it could be the power transistor in the PCM which activates each shift solenoid; I don't recall anyone ever reporting that problem. Still rare, but possible, is that there is a wire break in the cable going to the trans. I have read of people who while servicing the trans have bent over one of the pins in the trans connector.
Back to your problem - since the trans does shift into each gear in some situations, it cannot be any of the electrical problems I mentioned above. Since both your old and new trans have the same problem, that makes it less likely that the new trans has a problem. Most likely IMHO, is the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) or a slipping torque converter. Torque converters do go bad, especially if a worn valve body on your old trans caused the converter's lock-up clutch to clip and overheat.
Back to your problem - since the trans does shift into each gear in some situations, it cannot be any of the electrical problems I mentioned above. Since both your old and new trans have the same problem, that makes it less likely that the new trans has a problem. Most likely IMHO, is the VSS (Vehicle speed sensor) or a slipping torque converter. Torque converters do go bad, especially if a worn valve body on your old trans caused the converter's lock-up clutch to clip and overheat.
#30
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Mount Prospect, Illinois
Posts: 115
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok so I got a problem. Almost stock '02 Camaro A4 with 40K. It wouldn't up shift at WOT, took it to the dealer, they put a new tranny in it (got a warrenty when I bought it for free)... I'm having the same problem still. It wont up shift into any gear weather I leave it in drive or over drive or shift manually it just bangs the rev limiter till I let off a little. I know I shoulda held out for a M6....... Any Ideas? Could this be fixed with an HP tune? Is it possible I got a bum tranny? also shifts funny into 3rd driving normally sometimes.
#31
Launching!
iTrader: (8)
What kind of kit are you going with and what does it come with?[/QUOTE]
I am going to go with a kit from probuilt
"Complete description of the parts in the rebuild kit"
"Front pump"
Seal retainer
Late design seal
13-vane rotor with vanes, slide, rotor guide & pin assembly
Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring (under 5,500 rpm)
New replacement stator support with extra wide bushings installed
TransGo .500 boost valve
"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears up the inside of the drum)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
2 Overrun steels .091
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068
Your choice of the Borg Warner Hi-Energy, 8 clutch setup for the 3-4 pack below,
8 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches .080
4 3-4 steels Kolene .060
3 3-4 Steels Kolene .076
1 3-4 top pressure plate .128
1 3-4 bottom apply pressure plate .225
1 3-4 snap ring .062
or the "modified" Raybestos Z-Pak, 16 one sided clutch/steel setup for the 3-4 pack.
16 one sided clutch/steel arrangement
1 5-tang apply ring
1 3-4 bottom pressure plate .225
1 3-4 top pressure plate .125
1 3-4 snap ring .062
Borg Warner dual cage 29 element sprag.
Beast sunshell or GM heat treated sunshell
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Vamac 3 lip rear seal
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushings (latest updates, including Teflon front pump & extension)
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit (Timken)
Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band
Trans-Go Performance Shift kit, with .500 boost valve & w/accumulation for nice part throttle shifts
New steel molded rubber pistons for overrun, forward & 3-4
Modified second accumulator piston, new "hardened" (RC52) pin, & seal with matching accumulator springs (allows for a very smooth 1-2 part throttle shift)
New aluminum 4th oem pin and accumulator piston
New aluminum "modified" 2nd accumulator piston for smoother part throttle shifts
New Sonnax pinless accumulator forward piston
New 2nd "hardened" (RC52) accumulator pin
I am going to go with a kit from probuilt
"Complete description of the parts in the rebuild kit"
"Front pump"
Seal retainer
Late design seal
13-vane rotor with vanes, slide, rotor guide & pin assembly
Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring (under 5,500 rpm)
New replacement stator support with extra wide bushings installed
TransGo .500 boost valve
"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears up the inside of the drum)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
2 Overrun steels .091
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068
Your choice of the Borg Warner Hi-Energy, 8 clutch setup for the 3-4 pack below,
8 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches .080
4 3-4 steels Kolene .060
3 3-4 Steels Kolene .076
1 3-4 top pressure plate .128
1 3-4 bottom apply pressure plate .225
1 3-4 snap ring .062
or the "modified" Raybestos Z-Pak, 16 one sided clutch/steel setup for the 3-4 pack.
16 one sided clutch/steel arrangement
1 5-tang apply ring
1 3-4 bottom pressure plate .225
1 3-4 top pressure plate .125
1 3-4 snap ring .062
Borg Warner dual cage 29 element sprag.
Beast sunshell or GM heat treated sunshell
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Vamac 3 lip rear seal
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushings (latest updates, including Teflon front pump & extension)
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit (Timken)
Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band
Trans-Go Performance Shift kit, with .500 boost valve & w/accumulation for nice part throttle shifts
New steel molded rubber pistons for overrun, forward & 3-4
Modified second accumulator piston, new "hardened" (RC52) pin, & seal with matching accumulator springs (allows for a very smooth 1-2 part throttle shift)
New aluminum 4th oem pin and accumulator piston
New aluminum "modified" 2nd accumulator piston for smoother part throttle shifts
New Sonnax pinless accumulator forward piston
New 2nd "hardened" (RC52) accumulator pin
#33
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ill Give it a shot. Do I need to go to the dealer for the part and Where is the VSS located on the vehicle?
#34
Moderator
The VSS is at the back of the trans on the passenger side; a small cable with 2 wires goes to it. IIRC, a small 8mm bolt holds it on.
Obviously the dealer has them, not sure if for $25 though.
Obviously the dealer has them, not sure if for $25 though.
#35
Moderator
I found it on Amazon for $16:
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-17...2002&carId=003
(Double check that this is the right part.)
Order another $10 (Book, DVD, etc) and get free shipping.
BTW - You can order anything from replacement parts to forged cranks to Wilwood brakes on Amazon, often at the best prices and less than e.g. Summit or Jegs.
http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-17...2002&carId=003
(Double check that this is the right part.)
Order another $10 (Book, DVD, etc) and get free shipping.
BTW - You can order anything from replacement parts to forged cranks to Wilwood brakes on Amazon, often at the best prices and less than e.g. Summit or Jegs.
#37
10 Second Club
iTrader: (41)
I didn't get my tranny filled good once and it did a bunch of weird **** at WOT. Not at all saying that is your problem. Im subscribing to this thread though. Very interested to see what this is. I really doubt it would be your transmission clutches going out with 40k miles. Running them hard they should still go atleast 80k miles as long as they are maintaned right.
#39
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#40
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I didn't get my tranny filled good once and it did a bunch of weird **** at WOT. Not at all saying that is your problem. Im subscribing to this thread though. Very interested to see what this is. I really doubt it would be your transmission clutches going out with 40k miles. Running them hard they should still go atleast 80k miles as long as they are maintaned right.