Won't up shift at wot!!!
You or somebody before you did something wrong to that car than. Ran it low on fluid or something. There is NO reason for clutches to go out that early. No reason at all.....
BTW let me know if you need any help with it. I can hook up EFI Live and help see what's going on..
Thats what I was told as well, It turned out my clutches were worn and I had a pump going out. I have a brand new tranny in there now with less than 6K on it and I still got the same problem. If you figure anything out let me know.
No I DID have clutches go out at 38K the tranny was toast, no joke. But for sure man I'll keep whoever is interested posted as I can get things done on it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 47
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From: Twin Lakes, Colorado
wait wait wait LOL. You say you had a tranny go bad with 38k and than they replaced it with a good transmission and you still have the same problem????????? Not trying to be a dick, but if you had a problem and you put a new tranny in and it still has the exact same problem IT WAS NOT THE TRANSMISSION CLUTCHES WITH THE PROBLEM. It has got to be something electrical. And why in the hell have you put 6k on a car with this kind of problem?
I know that now, but the warranty company ordered the tranny to be changed because of excess clutch material in the pan so they did. The pump would howl if I didn't let the car warm up before I shifted it so I'm sure that had something to do with it. It took me a while to realize the problem was still there because I didn't run the car at WOT often before that, and it drives fine otherwise, and besides I still got a warranty on the car and another one for the tranny so if it happens again its not outta my pocket. I'm sure you all think warranties are for pussies and whatever but I have so I might as well use it. I noticed the problem still existed about a week or two before I started this thread and haven't really been able to drive it sense. This isn't my first car I have a pretty good idea when you should and shouldn't drive something..
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Yea not your fault. I just think they diagnosed it wrong and put a tranny in when it wasn't needed. Like I said there is no way the clutches were worn down with 38k miles on the car..... Not trying to come off as a dick. I just couldn't drive my car 6k with a problem that wouldn't let me go WOT. WOT is the best part lol.
Colorado ain't that bad once you get past the fact that all your cars are slower up here, you live with snow 75% of the year where I'm at, there is no beach, and the cost of living blows... Wait... Why do I live here?
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 47
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From: Twin Lakes, Colorado
So FINALLY got around to getting the car out, and I'm pretty sure I have traced the problem to a bad MAF. Should I go with OEM or spring for an aftermarket one since I have to replace it anyway? The car is still stock. Thanks in advance.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Twin Lakes, Colorado
Late "entry"... Having this problem, too.
05 LQ4/ 4L60E....Freshened up, [had 15K on it, since new.]
From a brake stall, the 1/2 is always good. 2-3 is waay over the commanded specs. [Commanded 60 mph/5400Rpm], saw waay over 6K, let off, shifts.
From a 3rd gear cruise speed,[40-50], go WOT, with a d/shift to 2, the upshift is OK.[Less accel G's allowing the fluid to stay put??]
Am using EFILIVE. Will check level, log it, try a spare MAF, log it, and report.
I'm going to look at the wiring on the speedo,[Autometer], and confirm the VSS signal from the PCM, is making the trip. [A SUN nostalgia electronic tach appears to match the PCM RPM signal. No pull up issues]
Two ? have come up: Can there be too much/not enough spread in the mph vs rpm??
What effect/how does the accuracy/fault in the MAF affect the shift, if 0101,0102,0103 are not reporting?
More latr..
TIA,
05 LQ4/ 4L60E....Freshened up, [had 15K on it, since new.]
From a brake stall, the 1/2 is always good. 2-3 is waay over the commanded specs. [Commanded 60 mph/5400Rpm], saw waay over 6K, let off, shifts.
From a 3rd gear cruise speed,[40-50], go WOT, with a d/shift to 2, the upshift is OK.[Less accel G's allowing the fluid to stay put??]
Am using EFILIVE. Will check level, log it, try a spare MAF, log it, and report.
I'm going to look at the wiring on the speedo,[Autometer], and confirm the VSS signal from the PCM, is making the trip. [A SUN nostalgia electronic tach appears to match the PCM RPM signal. No pull up issues]
Two ? have come up: Can there be too much/not enough spread in the mph vs rpm??
What effect/how does the accuracy/fault in the MAF affect the shift, if 0101,0102,0103 are not reporting?
More latr..
TIA,
Last edited by Old Geezer; May 16, 2012 at 06:42 PM.
MAF accuracy, elevation, etc. affect the air mass value
and the Delivered Torque that goes to line pressure. The
line pressure does affect shift cycle time, but you want
to look at the Trans Current Gear for intent, and input
shaft RPM for outcome to figure out what's holding off
the shift (as perceived).
and the Delivered Torque that goes to line pressure. The
line pressure does affect shift cycle time, but you want
to look at the Trans Current Gear for intent, and input
shaft RPM for outcome to figure out what's holding off
the shift (as perceived).
Update.. MAF accuracy, elevation, etc. affect the air mass value
and the Delivered Torque that goes to line pressure. The
line pressure does affect shift cycle time, but you want
to look at the Trans Current Gear for intent, and input
shaft RPM for outcome to figure out what's holding off
the shift (as perceived).
and the Delivered Torque that goes to line pressure. The
line pressure does affect shift cycle time, but you want
to look at the Trans Current Gear for intent, and input
shaft RPM for outcome to figure out what's holding off
the shift (as perceived).
I've checked the wiring on the Speedo and found it to be correctly set up. Vss to pin 21/green conn. Out to the speedo on wire 50/green conn. [Pin 20 is vss low].
I've verified the correct gearing and tire size.
I am now setting up the pids to log trans performance.
I will run Calc.VET before I do the trans logs. This will verify/modify the MAF and VE tables.[Should they need it.]
Once all is complete, I'll post the results.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
I'll bring this back because I am having the same problem and would like to know exactly what the OP's issue was. That may help me it may not but what really pisses me off is reading through three pages of posts only to get to a DEAD END! At least two people posted on here saying they would "post results".
I'll bring this back because I am having the same problem and would like to know exactly what the OP's issue was. That may help me it may not but what really pisses me off is reading through three pages of posts only to get to a DEAD END! At least two people posted on here saying they would "post results".
__________________
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 301
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
Sadly rarely to people post results or followups . But first thing to do if you have not already is get a scanner or tuner on it and make sure the command to shift is actually being given in time. Bear in mind you cannot set the shift at 6000 rpm and expect it to complete at that RPM and speed . But mechanics do not work instant like electronics so takes some time for instance it might take 300 rpm or more depending on power level and gearing to complete the shift from 1-2 if you rev limiter happens before that you wont make the shift,2-3 takes even more time so might need 600 or more RPM to make the shift again if rev limiter is before that you wont make shift. So this is the place to check first.
Thanks I'll check it out.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2015
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HI I'm having the same issue with blowing past my shift points on the 2-3 shift an I was hoping u could give me some advice.. 98 camaro all bolt on car 60k.. just installed the 200 dollar hd2 kit from pbr an yank ss converter 3.73 gears.. so that's the back round of the car an the issue I'm having is my 2-3 shift keeps hitting Rev limit the shift is set at 5900 rpm an 61mph... max Rev limit set at 6300..can you give me some advice on what to try to change as far as tuning..my local tuner guy is awesome an always willing to take time to help me out he uses hp tuners
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
First, overfilling by 1/2 quart seems to help prevent 2->3 flares with the shallow pan transmissions.
Also:
I first ran a '98 PCM on my (previous) LS2 and then changed to a '02 (411) PCM.
Not absolutely sure of this, but my logging (and feeling) is that the '98 PCM starts the shift at the tuned RPM while the 411 starts the shift a few hundred RPM before the tuned value.
Seems the plan with the 411 was to have the shift complete around the tuned RPM.
However with the '98 starting the shift at tuned value, the engine will still accelerate a few hundred RPM during the shift.
Therefore your shift RPM and rev limit might simply be too close together for a '98 PCM.
If these ideas don't help, then it still is possible your 3/4 clutch simply is slipping and/or worn out.
I always suggest connecting a trans pressure gauge to ensure the line pressure reaches 200-240 psi during high throttle. Even blipping the throttle in Park should get close to that pressure.
Also:
I first ran a '98 PCM on my (previous) LS2 and then changed to a '02 (411) PCM.
Not absolutely sure of this, but my logging (and feeling) is that the '98 PCM starts the shift at the tuned RPM while the 411 starts the shift a few hundred RPM before the tuned value.
Seems the plan with the 411 was to have the shift complete around the tuned RPM.
However with the '98 starting the shift at tuned value, the engine will still accelerate a few hundred RPM during the shift.
Therefore your shift RPM and rev limit might simply be too close together for a '98 PCM.
If these ideas don't help, then it still is possible your 3/4 clutch simply is slipping and/or worn out.
I always suggest connecting a trans pressure gauge to ensure the line pressure reaches 200-240 psi during high throttle. Even blipping the throttle in Park should get close to that pressure.