chris95lt1ta

A few people have told me to get a yankss3600 stall but the revmax stall is normally the same price right now with the special until the end of this month i can get the revmax for just around $330 so will i be getting a good deal or should i just get the yank because it is known and proven with our cars? Also with a stock motor, trans, and 2.73 gears should a get a 3600 or something more like a 3200? My torque converter is going out and i cant afford bigger gears right now. Thanks

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Your torque converter is "going out".....You sure about that diagnosis?

Here's my Yank 4k in action. 3600 would be similar.....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...pics-vids.html

lsxnation

iTrader: (2)

nothing but success with my yank.

Rhino79

iTrader: (7)

You get what you pay for with torque converters, loved the yank in my previous ride.

chris95lt1ta

Well either that or a shift solenoid i was going to buy a kit and replace all the solenoids. And get the stall. I just wasnt sure if i should chance the revmax because its cheaper now.

Revmax

How have you diagnosed that the TC is going bad? The 4L60E transmission is notorious for issues in the PWM/ TCC circuit in the valve body wearing out!

Second to be fair, if you are going to compare apples to apples, you would need to compare our stage 5 billet converter ($725.00) to the Yank SS3600. Both units use the same components, billet front cover, clutch piston and clutch material. Our stage 3 unit is a non billet unit, however, it is a great choice for a relatively stock or lightly modded car such as yours. Now, if you were forced induction I would highly recommend our stage 5, but for your application the stage 3 will be great!

chris95lt1ta

I havent diagnosed it. But after i changed the fluid and filter and the problem continues (as i thought it would anyways) i thought second to replace solenoid and the torque converter. However, i dont know much about transmissions so any suggestions will help.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

It would be a big help if you told us what the car is actually doing wrong.

chris95lt1ta

After it heats up it gets stuck in 3rd gear. When i leave from red lights i have to give it alot of gas to go. And it never shifts first-second or second-third it just gets stuck in 3rd.

Revmax

That is NOT a converter issue... That is a trans issue or electrical! The vehicle is in limp mode. What codes are coming up?

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Okay, well that's a transmission or signal to transmission problem. Nothing at all to do with the converter, and yeah you will have to give it a lot of gas because it's in 3rd dude. Ever try to take off on a 10 speed bike in the 10th gear?? It's hard as hell to get going.

Also, you sure it's getting stuck in 3rd? You could have a funky shift selector switch (nuetral safety switch) that is telling it to start in 2nd gear and act like that. Never heard of one taking off in 3rd though. But it's surely possible if something is messed up.

Does your car have one of those 2nd gear start buttons? If I remember right some F body's had one. Make sure that isn't on if so.

chris95lt1ta

Yes it does have a 2nd gear start button. There also aren't any codes coming up. At all. Thats what got me.

H82ZULOSE

take it to a good trans shop likely you will need to have all new solenoids replaced. best to do that while your already in there and change the wiring harness if they offer it do it. Even running a stall on a stock motor helps it tremendously. I run the ss3600 in my Z and i will say it was worth every penny.

chris95lt1ta

Do you have an ls1? Im in mobile so i cant check right now also what gears do you have?

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I wouldn't be surprised if somehow the trans is actually sticking in 2nd and staying there. You can command the trans to stay in 2nd with the shifter and the 2nd gear start button makes it start in 2nd but I don't know if it any way could ever makes it stay in second the whole time. Something could be going on there.. who knows, either way you need to take it in for a proper diagnoses. And don't go to a half *** transmission shop they will probably tell you to do a rebuild regardless of what is wrong with it.


But in addition also don't be surprised if it actually does need a rebuild, these transmissions have plenty of issues.



On an auto F body the best performance mod you can ever do is a good stall converter, it should be your first mod. Anyone that owns an auto F body will tell you it is the most significant mod you can make. I have a LS1 and run a Yank SS3800 by the way.

chris95lt1ta

Oh ok thanks. Well i can command it into second from drive by moving the gear selector but when i go drive to 3rd nothing changes

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Go to autozone ask them to pull the codes see if anything comes up, just because the light is not on does not mean there are not codes set. If you find anything there post it up and we may be able to help.

chris95lt1ta

Ok its a 95 it has a obd-2 port but when i plug it up it says no link is that because its supposed to be obd-1 i work at jiffy lube so i have "slight access" here and there.

Revmax

Definately go to someone with a scanner with OBD1 and have them pull your codes. Your mystery will then begin to unfold and hopefully a easy solution will come from it!!

doran_the_man

I had the same problem on my 95 camaro a few months back. Replaced some stuff recommended by a shop (1-2 and 3-4 solenoids, VSS sensor) but it still went into limp mode. Note that the shops couldn't read it, they were using OBD II software. Finally wised up and bought the ALDL cable for 95's, downloaded some free software, it was the 3-2 downshift solenoid in the pan. I deleted the parameter in the software just for giggles.. Problem went away. The car drives fine now. Go figure.

As far as Revmax goes, I'm actually placing an order today!