Am I the only one who has bad luck with trans?
#1
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Am I the only one who has bad luck with trans?
I'm already having 3rd & 4th gear slippage and it flares shifting into 3rd after my last rebuild (Maybe a month ago I had the same problem and the build was warrantied). Now it slips in those gears but not all the time, the slippage is random and it comes then it goea away and the trans runs like normal.... WTF is up with my luck. this will be my 3rd rebuild...
Question, do you think they'll warranty it again?
Question, do you think they'll warranty it again?
#3
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No your not the only one LOL I had my fair share also. I'm guessing your running a 60e. How much power are you making? Have you tuned your shift points, lock up mph etc. I had flare problems with mine untill we went with a vaccum modulator for shifts. I had several built from a well name builder in the Houston area and they never quite got it correct. It was fine on the street , but at the track with good tires it had problems.
If your tune is correct and your under 400 hp find a new builder. We started having issues at the 475-550 hp level and turning it to 6.5 - 7k
I went with a Rossler build and have had no issues since. We went as far as buying another case just to make sure. 60e's equal mega $$$ .
If your tune is correct and your under 400 hp find a new builder. We started having issues at the 475-550 hp level and turning it to 6.5 - 7k
I went with a Rossler build and have had no issues since. We went as far as buying another case just to make sure. 60e's equal mega $$$ .
#5
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I register a vote for Performabuilt. For $1600 bucks, you're going to get a tranny that will vastly exceed the needs of 99.999% of all fbody racers out there. Their level 2 unit costs about the same as a stock replacement unit that you'd find through summit yet they come with a 2 year warranty for 700rwhp (roughly 900 crank horsepower). I had a great year with mine and I paired it with one of their 10.5" billet converters. I had an issue with another companies converter that damaged the transmission the first time around (not performabuilts fault) and they were very fair with me about a rebuild. Excellent customer service. They will get my business in the future.
#6
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This would be my 3rd rebuild within 6 months though! I got charged $1500 the first time, the second time they warrantied it and told me if the same thing happens again they won't warranty it because "He never seen any damage like that before and it was caused by driving the **** out of my car" But when it messed up the 2nd time I was driving like a normal human being and as I was going down a overpass I slightly accelerated to overtake a vehicle and it slipped on the downshift (from 4th to 3rd)
#7
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This would be my 3rd rebuild within 6 months though! I got charged $1500 the first time, the second time they warrantied it and told me if the same thing happens again they won't warranty it because "He never seen any damage like that before and it was caused by driving the **** out of my car" But when it messed up the 2nd time I was driving like a normal human being and as I was going down a overpass I slightly accelerated to overtake a vehicle and it slipped on the downshift (from 4th to 3rd)
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#9
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Is it really worth the headache? I would save for a sponsor built trans on here. I went with a Performabuilt and I love it. Only had one issue with it and that was due to a local dyno tuners error. Performabuilt even helped me through that. Any time I need a trans for anything I will go through them again.
#10
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I'm going ahead and having it all really beefed up. Might throw a stall in there also... Any suggestions on a stall for a bolt on car only? Or should I wait until I get a cam...
#14
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If you keep burning transmissions, at the kind of power levels
I see here, you have to suspect it's not a transmission problem.
For starters you'd like adaptive shift and TCC slip learning
turned off, so your transmission behavior stays where you
(er, Mr. Highly Respected) left it. Then, make sure that no
slip is happening anywhere in the driving envelope. That's
street tuning activity and a fair bit of it, not an afternoon
on the rollers looking just at WOT.
All it needs is for somebody to start lying about airflow for
the trans to get starved and start burning frictions.
#15
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That chain of logic wants checking.
If you keep burning transmissions, at the kind of power levels
I see here, you have to suspect it's not a transmission problem.
For starters you'd like adaptive shift and TCC slip learning
turned off, so your transmission behavior stays where you
(er, Mr. Highly Respected) left it. Then, make sure that no
slip is happening anywhere in the driving envelope. That's
street tuning activity and a fair bit of it, not an afternoon
on the rollers looking just at WOT.
All it needs is for somebody to start lying about airflow for
the trans to get starved and start burning frictions.
If you keep burning transmissions, at the kind of power levels
I see here, you have to suspect it's not a transmission problem.
For starters you'd like adaptive shift and TCC slip learning
turned off, so your transmission behavior stays where you
(er, Mr. Highly Respected) left it. Then, make sure that no
slip is happening anywhere in the driving envelope. That's
street tuning activity and a fair bit of it, not an afternoon
on the rollers looking just at WOT.
All it needs is for somebody to start lying about airflow for
the trans to get starved and start burning frictions.
#17
Moderator
I'm no trans expert, but from what I read, a common problem for 3/4 clutch slippage is low line pressure. And, a common reason for low line pressure is that the rebuilder did not check/rebuild the valve body. I read that if for example, the AFL valve is loose in its bore, the line pressure will be low and the 3/4 clutch will be the first casualty.
I suspect that some less-than-stellar rebuilders are not comfortable checking/fixing the valve body. It can also be very expensive - IIRC fixing the AFL problem requires a $100 part from Sonnax (and a $150 tool the first time).
Again this is all just from what I read.
Buying a sponsor's trans is probably the cheapest solution long term.
I suspect that some less-than-stellar rebuilders are not comfortable checking/fixing the valve body. It can also be very expensive - IIRC fixing the AFL problem requires a $100 part from Sonnax (and a $150 tool the first time).
Again this is all just from what I read.
Buying a sponsor's trans is probably the cheapest solution long term.
#18
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I feel for you, but sometimes you just have to start over. Go to Circle D in Houston and they will fix you up. The 60e is not a part to save alittle cash on. I have mega money in mine but it has lasted this time around. Rossler built it and Circle D refreshed it after the input shaft got bent from the vertor bolts backing out on the dyno. This tranny is holding up to much abuse.