transmission "clunks" into drive
transmission "clunks" into drive I have a 4l60e with 134,000 miles on it. I know that they are notorious for hard shifts (which this one also does. lol), but when I go to put mine in drive it clunks very hard and chirps the tires. It feels the same as if you were to rev up the engine and throw it in drive. Once it is warmed up a lot it softens up a bit but it is still there.
I've heard that it could be the converter? What do y'all think?
I've heard that it could be the converter? What do y'all think?
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 308
Likes: 1
From: Cumming GA
This is Lou from Mad Dog's. We Specialize in 4L60e's. Give me your phone number or feel free to call my office. We would love to help you.
Thank You,
Mad Dog Lou!
MAD DOG TRANSMISSIONS
Phone 770-781-0949
Fax 770-781-0969
Web: www.maddogtransmissions.com
Facebook:www.facebook.com/maddogtransmissions
Twitter:www.twitter.com/maddoglou
YouTube:www.youtube.com/maddogtransmissions
Thank You,
Mad Dog Lou!
MAD DOG TRANSMISSIONS
Phone 770-781-0949
Fax 770-781-0969
Web: www.maddogtransmissions.com
Facebook:www.facebook.com/maddogtransmissions
Twitter:www.twitter.com/maddoglou
YouTube:www.youtube.com/maddogtransmissions
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I'm no trans expert, but I would start by dropping the pan and removing the 1-2 accumulator (just three more bolts). Cracked and worn pistons are common; broken springs are possible too. (Although I am not absolutely sure this will give a hard shift.) Either replace with an aluminum piston ($3) or a Sonnax pinless setup (only $11).
If you go as far as removing the valve body, you can then also check the forward accumulator and the 3-4 accumulator. You might as well replace all those piston for a total of $33.
Next check the sleeved accumulator valve; I recently check two valve bodies and the accumulator valve was stuck in its sleeve. Replacement parts are again cheap.
IMHO, there is a lot that can be improved/fixed by removing the valve body and replacing some of these parts/pistons/valves; no need to remove the entire trans.
If this doesn't solve your problem, then the rest of the trans will need a rebuild, but all you've lost is perhaps 2 hours of your time; tell the rebuilder what you have already replaced.
If you go as far as removing the valve body, you can then also check the forward accumulator and the 3-4 accumulator. You might as well replace all those piston for a total of $33.
Next check the sleeved accumulator valve; I recently check two valve bodies and the accumulator valve was stuck in its sleeve. Replacement parts are again cheap.
IMHO, there is a lot that can be improved/fixed by removing the valve body and replacing some of these parts/pistons/valves; no need to remove the entire trans.
If this doesn't solve your problem, then the rest of the trans will need a rebuild, but all you've lost is perhaps 2 hours of your time; tell the rebuilder what you have already replaced.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
The suggestions about replacing the EPC solenoid are good too as it is only $30 or so. It can be replaced without removing the valve body.
Looking over posts again today, many people struggle for months with various problems that are finally solved with new accumulator parts, EPC valve, Shift solenoids or other relatively inexpensive and easily replaced parts. Instead of trying to diagnose complex and/or intermittent symptoms, it seems better to me to just replace all these cheap parts; you are going to need to do so sooner or later anyway.
Keep in mind that a defective MAF, MAP or Throttle-position sensor could also cause hard shifts because the computer thinks you are at high throttle and therefore commands stiffer shifts. Problems with those sensor generally have other symptoms too.
Looking over posts again today, many people struggle for months with various problems that are finally solved with new accumulator parts, EPC valve, Shift solenoids or other relatively inexpensive and easily replaced parts. Instead of trying to diagnose complex and/or intermittent symptoms, it seems better to me to just replace all these cheap parts; you are going to need to do so sooner or later anyway.
Keep in mind that a defective MAF, MAP or Throttle-position sensor could also cause hard shifts because the computer thinks you are at high throttle and therefore commands stiffer shifts. Problems with those sensor generally have other symptoms too.
I'm no trans expert, but I would start by dropping the pan and removing the 1-2 accumulator (just three more bolts). Cracked and worn pistons are common; broken springs are possible too. (Although I am not absolutely sure this will give a hard shift.) Either replace with an aluminum piston ($3) or a Sonnax pinless setup (only $11).
If you go as far as removing the valve body, you can then also check the forward accumulator and the 3-4 accumulator. You might as well replace all those piston for a total of $33.
Next check the sleeved accumulator valve; I recently check two valve bodies and the accumulator valve was stuck in its sleeve. Replacement parts are again cheap.
IMHO, there is a lot that can be improved/fixed by removing the valve body and replacing some of these parts/pistons/valves; no need to remove the entire trans.
If this doesn't solve your problem, then the rest of the trans will need a rebuild, but all you've lost is perhaps 2 hours of your time; tell the rebuilder what you have already replaced.
If you go as far as removing the valve body, you can then also check the forward accumulator and the 3-4 accumulator. You might as well replace all those piston for a total of $33.
Next check the sleeved accumulator valve; I recently check two valve bodies and the accumulator valve was stuck in its sleeve. Replacement parts are again cheap.
IMHO, there is a lot that can be improved/fixed by removing the valve body and replacing some of these parts/pistons/valves; no need to remove the entire trans.
If this doesn't solve your problem, then the rest of the trans will need a rebuild, but all you've lost is perhaps 2 hours of your time; tell the rebuilder what you have already replaced.
Also I just want to make sure this isn't the kind of thing I do and find that it is incredibly hard to get all back together or something. lol
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Mine does that too...
It doesn't do it when it's warm....
I like to think of it like this..
When it's cold, the rpm's are higher, so when you shift into Drive, it's like you said above (revving it then dropping it into Drive)
When it's warm, the rpms are normal so it doesn't do it...
It doesn't do it when it's warm....
I like to think of it like this..
When it's cold, the rpm's are higher, so when you shift into Drive, it's like you said above (revving it then dropping it into Drive)
When it's warm, the rpms are normal so it doesn't do it...
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Ok, I'll go ahead and look into replacing all these fairly cheap parts just to see if that can help me before I get into a rebuild or replacement. I just need to be pointed somewhere where I can see what I'm looking to replace.
Also I just want to make sure this isn't the kind of thing I do and find that it is incredibly hard to get all back together or something. lol
Also I just want to make sure this isn't the kind of thing I do and find that it is incredibly hard to get all back together or something. lol
1. If your trans has a drain plug, drain the oil into a clean bucket as you may decide to reuse it. If no drain plug, get a simple $10 pump and pump it out of the dipstick tube.
2. Jack the car up and secure it.
3. Remove the oil pan. Pull out the oil filter.
4. Slide underneath the tran and learn what the basic parts are, e.g. the shift solenoids, the EPC solenoids and the 1-2 Accumulator.
5. Replace/rebuild those, put it back together and put the oil back in. Test it. If nothing else, you will be much more comfortable working on your trans now.
6. Next time, pull the valve body. We can go into details later.
The Transgo HD2 instructions give a lot of basic info, even if you are not installed a shift kit:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html
I have hundreds of detailed 4L60E pictures I should organize into tutorials of how to perform such tasks.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: ny
have you had the filter or fluid changed yet? if not your 34k over-due. i do mine in my car every 15-20k. id start there its only 50$ if can do it your self. a dirty filter commonly causes hard shifts into drive
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Dextron VI is around $7/quart at stores, but a trans shop can buy a case of 12 for $50 and perhaps give you a good price. You could repeatedly drain and replace the 4-5 quarts until you have all 12 new quarts in. Changing your own fluid every 20K is also a good way to go.
I've already checked for codes and it isn't throwing any, and i did the filter/fluid change back in august (which it was in desparate need of), so i am perfectly comfortable going that far, but as soon as I have access to my tools again (college) I'll rebuild those parts.
which leads me to my next question. lol what specifically do i need to buy?
which leads me to my next question. lol what specifically do i need to buy?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
When looking for a trans shop, I would recommend a local privately owned one over the national chains. Find one that has been in business for a long time, and with luck they will look for the cheapest solution instead of simply saying its needs a complete rebuild regardless of its problem.
Heck, print out this thread to show them you have done some technical research and lots of "friends" looking after you.
BTW - Several of our sponsors are in Texas.
I have everything I need to do it, and as far as my mechanical skills, no they aren't the best but I like to try stuff like this to try and work on them. lol I have no reservations of doing it, I just want to have a better idea of what I'm specifically getting myself into is all.
I still am going to take it somewhere to see if it's my transmission at all, but I feel like I'm going to end up trying this.
I still am going to take it somewhere to see if it's my transmission at all, but I feel like I'm going to end up trying this.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I have everything I need to do it, and as far as my mechanical skills, no they aren't the best but I like to try stuff like this to try and work on them. lol I have no reservations of doing it, I just want to have a better idea of what I'm specifically getting myself into is all.
I still am going to take it somewhere to see if it's my transmission at all, but I feel like I'm going to end up trying this.
I still am going to take it somewhere to see if it's my transmission at all, but I feel like I'm going to end up trying this.
Also, I'm finishing up and swapping another trans in next week and will take more detailed pictures of the basic parts you see when removing just the oil pan or also the valve body.
BTW - If/when you are ready to work on your trans and perhaps replace some of the easy parts, also make sure your have as spares the two separator plate gaskets, check ***** and a small amount of vaseline. For tools, a 8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets, small screwdrivers and needlenose pliers are about all you need to replace the easy parts.
OK. PM me when you are ready to work on it and I'll give you my cell phone number. Several ls1tech people call me while working on their trans and I am glad to help and easy to reach.
Also, I'm finishing up and swapping another trans in next week and will take more detailed pictures of the basic parts you see when removing just the oil pan or also the valve body.
BTW - If/when you are ready to work on your trans and perhaps replace some of the easy parts, also make sure your have as spares the two separator plate gaskets, check ***** and a small amount of vaseline. For tools, a 8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets, small screwdrivers and needlenose pliers are about all you need to replace the easy parts.
Also, I'm finishing up and swapping another trans in next week and will take more detailed pictures of the basic parts you see when removing just the oil pan or also the valve body.
BTW - If/when you are ready to work on your trans and perhaps replace some of the easy parts, also make sure your have as spares the two separator plate gaskets, check ***** and a small amount of vaseline. For tools, a 8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets, small screwdrivers and needlenose pliers are about all you need to replace the easy parts.
