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Please help me choose size and brand stall converter

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Old 05-11-2012, 08:23 PM
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Default Please help me choose size and brand stall converter

Im debating on installing a converter on my 94 Trans Am Lt-1. Has 103,000 miles. SLP cold Air INtake. Gutted Cat. Otherwise bone stock..Possible future plans are cam/heads/headers, exhaust. I only drive the car here and there on weekends. I dont care about MPG or anything like that, just want to make a little more fun to drive.
So I was thinking a 2400 not sure about brand yet. Should I be worrying about trans overheating or anything like that. I wont be doing autocross but may make a couple 1/4 passes here and there. I seee some cheaper ones on EBAY and like Revmax, Vigilante, Jegs. Should I stay away from them or are they OK for my use..Any suggestions??
Thanks alot
Old 05-12-2012, 06:17 AM
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A 2400 is so close to the OEM 1800,it would be a waste of money and effort.
You didn't state what your rearend gear ratio is !
If 2.73s',at least a 3000 in the low stall ratio(to minimize felt looseness). If 3.23s' or better,a 3500/3600.

My sequence was
1.OEM 1800 with OEM 3.23s'. 'tight' in traffic
2.TCI 2800 with OEM 3.23s'.-no change in the 1/4 a little loose in traffic
3.TCI 2800 with 4.56s'.- gained 1/2 sec in the 1/4 the 2800 became tight in traffic
4.Yank SS3600 with 4.56s'. tight in traffic
5.Yank SS3600 with the OEM 3.23s'. tight in traffic

Last edited by FirstYrLS1Z; 05-12-2012 at 10:38 AM.
Old 05-12-2012, 04:00 PM
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I have 3.23's...Thanks for the info..With the TCI 2800 you had no change in 1/4 and loose in traffic, Did you feel any gain?
Old 05-12-2012, 04:46 PM
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hi,
i have a yank 3400 and i love it. when you stomp on it its a whole lotta fun. there is a lot of guys on here that have bigger stalls than mine in their dd and they love it. i would not use anything under the 3000. i wish i wold of went with a 3600 stall. they actually seem to be the most common size to run. if you can get a vig converter on ebay for i good price i would buy it. the yank,vig,circle d converters all have great reputations and are sponsors on here so if you run into a problem they are easy to get a hold of.
Old 05-12-2012, 04:54 PM
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Thx Mikey,
Can you list your mods?
Old 05-12-2012, 08:07 PM
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i have long tube headers,ory ,no cats and a borla exhaust. yank 3400 stall,3:42 gears and a 10 bolt ta girdle,complete suspension,hotchkis lowering springs, spohn torque bar,lca's pan head bar,slp lid,ftra,80mm bbk throttle body,ported maf,160 stat,ngk tr55 plugs and msd wires and tuned
Old 05-12-2012, 08:19 PM
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I first tried the TCI Streetfighter (3300 stall) but it was very loose in traffic. I then went with the TCI Breakaway (2800), but it was slow at the track.
Finally I bought a Yank 3600, which is much tighter than the TCI Streetfighter and I am very happy with it.
Old 05-12-2012, 08:48 PM
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Can't go wrong with Yank, Circle D, or FTI. Any of them are great, when I make my decision it is going to come down to however is running a sale at the time lol
Old 05-12-2012, 09:26 PM
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I'd say an FTI, he has a cheaper line that would work well for you application. I'd recommend giving Greg a call.
Old 05-13-2012, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MIKEY'S 2002 TA
i have long tube headers,ory ,no cats and a borla exhaust. yank 3400 stall,3:42 gears and a 10 bolt ta girdle,complete suspension,hotchkis lowering springs, spohn torque bar,lca's pan head bar,slp lid,ftra,80mm bbk throttle body,ported maf,160 stat,ngk tr55 plugs and msd wires and tuned
Put this in your sig and you won't have to type it out
Old 05-13-2012, 12:17 AM
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Look into a PTC or TCI if your budget minded. I ran a PTC 3500 for 6 years and daily drove it and raced it with no problems.

2400 is too small you might like somewhere around 3200?? All depends on how you want your car to perform. Get a good trans cooler.
Old 05-13-2012, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboStangJON
I'd say an FTI, he has a cheaper line that would work well for you application. I'd recommend giving Greg a call.
Yeah what he said.Call Greg.
Old 05-15-2012, 10:18 PM
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bit of a converter noob here never driven a car with a stall in it what do you mean by loose and tight ??? thinking about this mod but still like to a little tire rippin for fun. how will it affect being able to do a brakestand ??
Old 05-16-2012, 06:33 AM
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a factory OEM (1800) stall is tight,in gear at a stop and taking your foot off the brake,the car will move forward. Some aftermarket stalls,and that also depends upon rear gear ratio,will feel tight. Some aftermarket stalls will feel loose in the respect that you have to have more rpm (more than engine idle) to get the car moving.
brakestand/footbraking is not much effected because engine rpm and torque at that rpm is the same except that when you release the brakes of that brakestand,you get a 'wilder' burnout because the engine goes to higher rpm/more torque quicker.
Old 05-17-2012, 12:14 AM
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Ok kind of what i as thinking how do you tell when purchasing one? When the time comes i am thinking 3000 or so is it possible to have a stock feel but with the benefits when you get on it ?
Old 05-17-2012, 05:09 AM
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There is matching your needs vs what the engine wants....and often a compromise must be reached.
Talk to a GOOD converter company and they'll help you get the best "happy medium"
Old 05-17-2012, 05:53 AM
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Yank SS3600 !
Old 05-17-2012, 10:42 AM
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I'm also debating on what stall to use once I get my A4 swap done. I'll have all the mods in my sig except I'm goin to a 3.73 gear. I was thinking somewhere between 3200-3600 on the stall from what I have read. But I have also read not all 3200-3600 stalls are created equal either and that can play a role in who you buy from as well.
Old 05-18-2012, 09:47 AM
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I bought a Yank Stealth 3000 a couple of years ago because I got it for half of retail. I finally got it installed back on Easter weekend (thank you Josh at Spartan Performance). I couldn't be happier. I was worried about having a stall because I use this car as a weekend cruiser and occasionally go to the track. I was worried about having to rev it up too much to get the car moving or getting around in traffic. Normal driving I noticed very little difference in the pressure needed on the accelerator (that's what people mean about a converter being tight). In about a half-hour of driving, the difference wasn't noticeable at all. There was so little difference from stock, I got used to it that quickly. After I broke it in I stopped one day and stomped it. All hell broke loose!!! Spun my 315 Nittos through first and just as it was about to stop screeching, barked second. Took it to the track for the first time a couple of weekends ago. Corrected for DA, it took .35 off my 1/4 mi. time, and I am sure I could have gotten more off but I only got 2 runs in. Somehow one of the bolts on my panhard rod had worked loose and one end of the rod dropped just after I crossed the finish line so I had to wire it up out of the way and head home. With drag radials I should see .5 off. Some people ignore the Yank Stealth converters because they are the same size as the stock converter and are the most affordable Yanks, but if you aren't making big power and want good performance gain with great street manners, I highly recommend one.

Last edited by dubga; 05-18-2012 at 09:53 AM.
Old 05-18-2012, 10:07 AM
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Nice, see I have also read a 3600 stall will not always act idential across the board given MFG's. either. Something about another value that alot of people overlook when picking a stall, I believe it was referred to as the TRT or TTR or something like that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


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