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Jakes transbrake users, got vids?

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Old 05-26-2012, 08:51 PM
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Default Jakes transbrake users, got vids?

Just got my jakes stage 4 with the old transbrake ordered. I was just wondering if any of you guys that have them have vids and if so would you post them up?
Old 05-26-2012, 11:34 PM
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Look up foose04 on youtube. He's a PerformanceTrucks.net member using our trans with the low brake. Good bumper cam videos of the launch in a 10 second truck.
Old 05-28-2012, 12:35 PM
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This was my old turbo car when I first installed my Jake braked 4l80e.

Only video I ever had took from behind.

Car weighed 4000lbs and it took a while to finally get it to build boost like it should and cut a better 60'

At least you get an idea here.

http://youtu.be/4htC-zG3QIs
Old 05-28-2012, 01:18 PM
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Nice.
Old 05-28-2012, 01:33 PM
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I will say this.

The way I ended up getting boost built the best way was pretty innovative and ingenious.

A member here with jakes t-brake sent me a pm telling me this as I was having tons of problems building boost on the footbrake mainly pushing through the brakes.

The way jakes full manual trans brake works is off the 2-3 shift solenoid. If you were to put your 80e in 2nd gear with his transbrake and press the t-brake button and hold it, it will shift into 3rd gear and stay there until you release the button. Only in 1st gear does reverse and 1st gear apply though holding the car in place.

What I did and was suggested to me, was pull the car into the first beam and light the first staging light.

Take the gear selector from 1st gear and put it into 2nd gear.

Pump brake several times and hold it to the floor like it owes you money.

While you do that press and hold the transbrake button while in 2nd gear. It will shift to 3rd and hold it there.

Now in 3rd gear you have 1:1 gear ratio instead of 2.48:1 which really loads the motor and gets rid of the torque multiplication you don't need which is why it wanted to push through the brakes.

While holding the footbrake and t brake button in 2nd gear putting it into 3rd gear allowed it to build 7psi of boost in 2-3 seconds.

Once 7psi was built I bumped into the second staging light.

When this happens/ed down shift the gear selector from 2nd gear to 1st gear while you are still holding the trans brake button.

This will put the car into 1st gear setting the transbrake and holding the car into place.

Now you can release your foot from the footbrake and hang on when the light drops!!!

I had my two step set at 3600rpm and used n/a timing to build boost on the footbrake and then pulled 10* from 3600rpm where the 2 step was set which really made it bang the two step chip hard and i went from 7psi to 12psi .5 second.

Hope this helps anyone else needing boost built with a 4l80e with jakes t brake as it will only work with his like this.
Old 05-28-2012, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
Hope this helps anyone else needing boost built with a 4l80e with jakes t brake as it will only work with his like this.
The purpose of the transbrake is to allow you to build boost without worrying if the vehicle brakes will hold it.

My transbrake WILL hold boost (or power) until you either break a hard part (input shaft, intermediate shaft, forward hub, output shaft, etc) in the trans, or you melt down the converter and trans.

Without going into details of the internal operation, I'll just say it's a redundant system as far as holding.

What you are doing is using 3rd gear to kill torque multiplication to build boost before you stage, then staging and locking the brake, so you have more time to spool up. It's not the only way to build boost with my setup.
Old 05-29-2012, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake's Performance
The purpose of the transbrake is to allow you to build boost without worrying if the vehicle brakes will hold it.

My transbrake WILL hold boost (or power) until you either break a hard part (input shaft, intermediate shaft, forward hub, output shaft, etc) in the trans, or you melt down the converter and trans.

Without going into details of the internal operation, I'll just say it's a redundant system as far as holding.

What you are doing is using 3rd gear to kill torque multiplication to build boost before you stage, then staging and locking the brake, so you have more time to spool up. It's not the only way to build boost with my setup.
Slow67 is the one who told me to do it like this I think you two are friends?

He's was always a great help.

With your new t brake can you launch in 2nd?

What are the other ways to build boost with your set-up?
Old 05-29-2012, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
Slow67 is the one who told me to do it like this I think you two are friends?

He's was always a great help.



With your new t brake can you launch in 2nd?

What are the other ways to build boost with your set-up?
The transbrake will allow you to build boost. Once you apply the transbrake you aren't in low gear, you are locked internally.
If the car moves, something in the trans isn't holding which means an internal leak, overall low pressure, or most likely the band isn't properly setup during the build.

I'm just correcting the statement that the only way to build boostt is to shift to 2nd and "prespool". If the turbo combo spools slowly, it isn't the fault of the transbrake.

The new brake can be applied in any forward gear, but the end result is the same.
Old 05-31-2012, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake's Performance
The transbrake will allow you to build boost. Once you apply the transbrake you aren't in low gear, you are locked internally.
If the car moves, something in the trans isn't holding which means an internal leak, overall low pressure, or most likely the band isn't properly setup during the build.

I'm just correcting the statement that the only way to build boostt is to shift to 2nd and "prespool". If the turbo combo spools slowly, it isn't the fault of the transbrake.

The new brake can be applied in any forward gear, but the end result is the same.
It really had nothing to do with it spooling slowly and being the combo's fault. I'm just speaking from first hand experience what worked best for me to cut a good light on a pro tree by spooling on the footbrake like any other heads up car would do before they bump into the second staging light.

If you want to cut any kind of light you don't just pull in and light both lights and sit there until you get enough boost to launch with. This is what I was having to do in my video above because I couldn't hold the car in 1st. That video was taken the first outing to the track after install of your transbrake. I never took any videos from behind the car after that. I had it spooling much faster after I learned what it takes to make a turbo combo spool.

If you don't have dual rear calipers and a properly set-up pivot ratio on your brake pedal you will never hold a turbo car with a tight converter on the footbrake without pushing through.

Thus the reason why I shifted into second, pushed the t brake button and got it into 3rd to take away the tq. multiplication and allowing me to sit in the first light for 2-3 seconds to build 7-8 psi and then bump in to the second light, down shift and be on the transbrake and waiting for the light to drop.
Old 06-04-2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake's Performance

The new brake can be applied in any forward gear,
Sounds like you're using a Griner?

If so, can you build a TH400 with a 2.10 gearset and a Griner spragless?
Old 06-04-2012, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk441
Sounds like you're using a Griner?

If so, can you build a TH400 with a 2.10 gearset and a Griner spragless?
He is referring to his new design, automatic shifting, 4L80E brake.

And yes he can.
Old 06-04-2012, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk441
Sounds like you're using a Griner?

If so, can you build a TH400 with a 2.10 gearset and a Griner spragless?
Yes,
We can build the spragless Griner TH400 with a 2.10.

I cannot promise a delivery date for us getting the Griner VB though. They have been VERY slow on delivery lately.
Old 06-05-2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
It really had nothing to do with it spooling slowly and being the combo's fault. I'm just speaking from first hand experience what worked best for me to cut a good light on a pro tree by spooling on the footbrake like any other heads up car would do before they bump into the second staging light.

If you want to cut any kind of light you don't just pull in and light both lights and sit there until you get enough boost to launch with. This is what I was having to do in my video above because I couldn't hold the car in 1st. That video was taken the first outing to the track after install of your transbrake. I never took any videos from behind the car after that. I had it spooling much faster after I learned what it takes to make a turbo combo spool.

If you don't have dual rear calipers and a properly set-up pivot ratio on your brake pedal you will never hold a turbo car with a tight converter on the footbrake without pushing through.

Thus the reason why I shifted into second, pushed the t brake button and got it into 3rd to take away the tq. multiplication and allowing me to sit in the first light for 2-3 seconds to build 7-8 psi and then bump in to the second light, down shift and be on the transbrake and waiting for the light to drop.

To clarify (for others),

You mean your footbrake wouldn't hold against the tight converter in 1st, trying to spool on a pro tree. You used the button to shift to 3rd instead of converting to dual rear brake calipers. It wasn't the transbrake that wasn't holding



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