RELiG

Whether to get a used one ORRR go ahead and use Jakes or FLT. I have a good deal on a 4L80e out of a 6.0L, but Im always skeptical for obvious reasons.

I know both companies have a core charge and Id have to get on Craigslist or find a good 4L80e deal on 1 of these GM forum sites. Worse case scenario if I went ahead and bought the used transmission out of the 6.0 and something wasnt jiving I could use it as a core.

What do ya'll think?

This is a work in progress. Im buying parts as I go and plan to be done in 1 years time, at the latest *fingers crossed*

2007 NNBS RCSB
KB Racing T76 Intercooled kit
4L80e/ Yank/Circle D 3400 Stall ( havent decided )
Small Cam, something like 212/218 or 218/222
65# Injectors
4" Exhaust
AEM or Innovate Wide Band
AEM or Truboost Boost Controller

This isnt everything obviously, just the 'meat' of it. Plan to be around the 650HP range and not exceed 700HP.



Opinions....

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Id pick it up, if its a good deal, then call RPM or Jake's to have it beefed up a little. IMHO, its not worth the hassle to install it, and just hope it works really. Thats a big, heavy *** trans, and you probably only want to do it once.

Call em up, or PM on here, and pick their brains. Ive dealt with RPM personally and its been the BEST experience Ive ever had with ANY company, and although Ive never dealt with Jakes, I have never heard a single thing bad about em either.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

We don't have a "seperate" core charge.

The prices on our website are the actual price with no hidden charges or fees.
http://jakesperformance.com/4L80E.html

There is actually a $250 off of any 4L80E build going, so deduct $250 off the website price, core included.

The core price is built into the cost.

If you send us a core or are local and bring the vehicle/trans, we deduct even more since you provided the core.

For example,
Our website price for a Stage 2 4L80E is $2250 for an early core.
If you brought us a core (early or late), we would deduct $200 from the early price.
That makes the rebuild $2050. With our current sale, that makes it $1800 for a rebuild.

braiden1

Relig sounds like a good idea. Buy the core, a good ATSG manual, a master overhaul kit, and some minor upgrades and you can have that bad boy living @ 650hp no problem. Then you can use the money you save on one of those expensive converters. It's good to get your hands dirty sometimes.

derrickman05

iTrader: (4)

Jake does that apply for '60s too? I may need to get mine freshened up a bit.

RELiG

Exactly!

I had a Lightning that went through 3 transmissions in 1 year. Mainly due to 'shade tree' mechanics that didnt have any business working on a FI application. Id prefer to pay for quality than to be second guessing my work every time I putt'er in drive. Im trying NOT to get good at pulling/putting in 4L80e's

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

I'm all for learning and doing things yourself (and especially saving money), but IMO something like a transmission build is a very delicate procedure and even the guys who build 4L80Es for a living run into problems from time to time, it's the nature of the beast. An ATSG is a handy manual, and very good for diagnostic purposes, but I would never try to use it to try and build a transmission. The directions are ok to an extent, but the illustrations are less than ideal, especially for a first time builder. May I ask what kind of upgrades you had in mind to live at 650 hp?

RELiG

No problem buddy.

KB Racing T76 Intercooled Turbo Kit
4L80e w/ 3400 Stall from Yank or Circle D
I have 323 gears at the moment. Might look into 373's
TruTrac
Aeromotive Stealth 340 Fuel Pump
Delphi 65# Injectors
Small Cam 212/218 or 218/222
4" Exhaust
AEM or TruBoost Boost Controller
AEM or Innovate Wideband

braiden1

The upgrades are basic. Bearing at the back of case. Direct drum fitted with steel piston and .060" bleed hole. Fitted with 6 high energy clutches and new 34 element sprag (4L80's already come with one so just replace the old). I also do a mod here that's been around for more than 30 years called "dual feeding". 4 clutch intermediates with heavy duty snap ring. Forward drum fitted with 5 high energy clutches and a billet steel hub. Resurface pump stator half and add a new boost valve and high rate PR spring (I like using the Superior brand instead of the Transgo). Check pump gears and pocket for proper clearance. Then upgrade to a billet input shaft for safe measure (4340 or maragin depending on your pocket book). The hydraulics are also basic. Drill the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th feed holes accordingly (Varies on application). Remove a few check *****. Block the 3rd accumulator (I know people call this "old school" techniques but, it works). Then finally, ream the AFL valve and replace with a new one. So with a good rebuild kit that changes all the bushings, washers, bearings, and soft parts you can get it done.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Not to mention it contains at least 1 big mistake...

braiden1

It does not have to be the ATSG manual. It could be a Mitchells, GM 4L80E hand book, or some other after market book. The point is it could be done.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

Some of the "old school" mods you mention weren't very old school a few years ago when I was studying the 4L80E hydraulics.

"Remove a few check *****" is pretty vague. The average DIYer needs MUCH more info than that to "make it happen".

I sell kits and ATSG manuals and spend more time helping the DIY guys through a build via email and phone than should be necessary.

Most guys won't know which holes are the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th feed holes and even if so, they need to know how much to drill it based on the application.

We sell its and VERY OFTEN we get a transmission in pieces to complete the build. The simple fact is that some people are just not capable.

We also build them everyday here and still deal with issues on the dyno occasionally. Sometimes it may be an issue where it would work fine for most applications, but a small pressure issue or other problem that in a big power combo or over time will show up.

I'm all for a guy doing it on their own, but I also see the "other" side of that attempt pretty often.

braiden1

The 4L80E has been around for 21 years and the TH400 even longer. The hydraulics for both are similar when it comes to applying the direct clutch. The difference being that know in reverse it used reverse oil looped into the 1-2 shift valve to feed the rear band apply but, the 2-3 shift valve still feeds the directs (in 3rd) with the #8 checkball (3rd feed) and the #9 checkball (reverse feed) accumulating the feed rate and the #11 checkball directing traffic and converting into 3rd/rev feed. Funny how GM always dual fed reverse but not 3rd. I know that most won't look at charts for builds but my point was that with a little patience one can build a decent transmission.