Converters,can I have have my cake and eat it too?
#23
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Central Florida
Posts: 12,604
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you're dead at 40MPH the problem is probably in your
tune - stock shift tables have some stupid **** in them.
I went with a low STR to get efficiency, and because I
could not hook with even the 3000/2.2 TCI. Now I have
a 3500/2.0 and still can't hook, but it multiplies torque
well past 5000RPM. My TCI, you could feel it hit hard and
lay over up top. The Fuddle is more like a slingshot, not
as hard down low but it just keeps going and stretches
RPM like a rubber band.
I wish a real company made a converter like this - which
I spec'd roughly based on the SY3500 Yank used to make
although that had -too- low an STR in my opinion.
tune - stock shift tables have some stupid **** in them.
I went with a low STR to get efficiency, and because I
could not hook with even the 3000/2.2 TCI. Now I have
a 3500/2.0 and still can't hook, but it multiplies torque
well past 5000RPM. My TCI, you could feel it hit hard and
lay over up top. The Fuddle is more like a slingshot, not
as hard down low but it just keeps going and stretches
RPM like a rubber band.
I wish a real company made a converter like this - which
I spec'd roughly based on the SY3500 Yank used to make
although that had -too- low an STR in my opinion.
#25
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (63)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jimmy, i used to run the Yank SY3500 with a TR 220 cam back in the day... It was a sweet combo back then. My how times have changed....
If you're dead at 40MPH the problem is probably in your
tune - stock shift tables have some stupid **** in them.
I went with a low STR to get efficiency, and because I
could not hook with even the 3000/2.2 TCI. Now I have
a 3500/2.0 and still can't hook, but it multiplies torque
well past 5000RPM. My TCI, you could feel it hit hard and
lay over up top. The Fuddle is more like a slingshot, not
as hard down low but it just keeps going and stretches
RPM like a rubber band.
I wish a real company made a converter like this - which
I spec'd roughly based on the SY3500 Yank used to make
although that had -too- low an STR in my opinion.
tune - stock shift tables have some stupid **** in them.
I went with a low STR to get efficiency, and because I
could not hook with even the 3000/2.2 TCI. Now I have
a 3500/2.0 and still can't hook, but it multiplies torque
well past 5000RPM. My TCI, you could feel it hit hard and
lay over up top. The Fuddle is more like a slingshot, not
as hard down low but it just keeps going and stretches
RPM like a rubber band.
I wish a real company made a converter like this - which
I spec'd roughly based on the SY3500 Yank used to make
although that had -too- low an STR in my opinion.
#26
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OP I would urge you to consider contacting Greg at FTI. He is very busy so sometimes it takes him a day or two to answer emails and his phone is usually ringing off the hook but ask him about the SRLS3391. Thats the one I have. It is a 3400-3600 stall speed with a 2.35 STR (he emailed me the exact figure yesterday). Tell him you heard about the converter from me and you want to see if he would recommend it for you as well. It's more efficient up top than a Yank would be by a little bit but has about the same "neck-snapping" ability you would want for launches too. If you want something slightly bigger stall speed wise he has you covered too. The SRLS6391 (3800) would be a good medium probably but I'm not sure on the STR figure of that one. He also has some off-the self 4000 converters but it sounds like you'll want a custom unit to me.
#28
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mine was the same price as an off the shelf.
I ordered it through Complete Street Performance in West Chester, PA. They charge $695 + shipping, so it's still cheaper than on off the shelf Yank of equal type (billet lockup). And an off the shelf FTI runs $695.99 on Jegs.
I ordered it through Complete Street Performance in West Chester, PA. They charge $695 + shipping, so it's still cheaper than on off the shelf Yank of equal type (billet lockup). And an off the shelf FTI runs $695.99 on Jegs.
#32
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
He should get back to later today or tomorrow. He goes racing every weekend so it's best to contact him earlier in the week from what I've found.
I think a 6391 would probably be good, I grabbed these quotes from ls1gto.com
I'd like to mention that those ET reduction estimates are on the conservative side.
I think a 6391 would probably be good, I grabbed these quotes from ls1gto.com
Originally Posted by FTI CONVERTERS
Well the much talked about debate. I have personally driven each of the combinations and everyones opinion is different but this is mine as well as the census.
SRLS3082 3000 =drives great = like stock = works great with superchargers= picks up 2-3 tenths in et.
SRLS0082 3200 = drives good = almost like stock = You will know there is a converter picks up 3-4 tenths in et
SRLS0086 3600= Most popular DD converter=drives good= not much different than 3200 in driveability=picks up 4-5 tenths
SRLS6391 3800= My favorite=drives fair=definately know you have a converter= loves nitrous=picks up 5-6 tenths
SRLS7082 4000=Drives sloppy=hauls butt=hard to get to hook=tire burner=picks up a new tire bill!!!!!!!!
We build several other conbinations as well and also position the stator differently depending on combinations.
Greg
SRLS3082 3000 =drives great = like stock = works great with superchargers= picks up 2-3 tenths in et.
SRLS0082 3200 = drives good = almost like stock = You will know there is a converter picks up 3-4 tenths in et
SRLS0086 3600= Most popular DD converter=drives good= not much different than 3200 in driveability=picks up 4-5 tenths
SRLS6391 3800= My favorite=drives fair=definately know you have a converter= loves nitrous=picks up 5-6 tenths
SRLS7082 4000=Drives sloppy=hauls butt=hard to get to hook=tire burner=picks up a new tire bill!!!!!!!!
We build several other conbinations as well and also position the stator differently depending on combinations.
Greg
Originally Posted by mk9190
I have a FTI 3800....I picked up 8/10ths.
Maybe I should have gotten the 4000,I get new DRs every spring anyway![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Maybe I should have gotten the 4000,I get new DRs every spring anyway
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#35
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
With the fan it will help a smaller cooler but for the same price as the 70264 is you can get a Hayden 679. It fits with plenty of room and it's bigger than that B&M. Keeps my FTI cool, see the other thread in this section for a more detailed post about my trans temps from today. The heat difference between a 3500-3600 and 3800 is basically nothing. Find out from Greg what the STR is rated at on the 3800, that affects heat as well, again, mine is 2.35. Heat difference between that and let's say the 3800 is 2.5, won't be much either I couldn't imagine.