4l60e pump help!!
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So I broke my pump because I over filled it and had it tuned and the line pressure up'd and it popped about 30 miles later... I think. But anyways I replaced the pump and got everything put back in. Started it up and it would go into gear but not go anywhere. So I put some more fluid in it and the longer it ran it started dripping out of the bellhousing. So I dropped the trans again and it looked like it was leaking from the bolts that hold the pump in. And hardly any was there so idk if that's it or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks-Bobby
Thanks-Bobby
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I forgot I also noticed the converter was a little forward so idk if that happened during the last install or when I dropped the trans this last time. That could also maybe be where the fluid on the bolts came from was it splashed out. Idk I just need to get the car running this weekend. So ill be able to get around.
#3
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The bolts that hold the pump in have special o-ring-like seals on them; make sure you didn't just toss them without replacing them.
But if the car is not moving, then this is the least of your problems.
Is the car moving or not?
Every time I read here about the converter not being in far enough, it seems another pump has been broken.
Someone more experience correct me, but IMO a tune is not going to boost your pressure high enough to damage the pump, unless it was ready to fail anyway. The boost valve and its springs set the maximum pressure that a tune can produce. Stock its maybe 200 psi, with a shift kit maybe 225 psi. Of course a tune might keep the pressure more on the high side more of the time which could cause a marginal pump to fail sooner.
But if the car is not moving, then this is the least of your problems.
Is the car moving or not?
Every time I read here about the converter not being in far enough, it seems another pump has been broken.
Someone more experience correct me, but IMO a tune is not going to boost your pressure high enough to damage the pump, unless it was ready to fail anyway. The boost valve and its springs set the maximum pressure that a tune can produce. Stock its maybe 200 psi, with a shift kit maybe 225 psi. Of course a tune might keep the pressure more on the high side more of the time which could cause a marginal pump to fail sooner.
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There wasn't any o rings on the bolts when I removed them...
As for the car moving no it feels like the pump is broke but it goes into gear. And the pump isn't broke because when I do start it the fluid will go down then if I turn it off it goes back up. Which is what I was told/read is another way to tell if the pump is shot without dropping it.
As for the line pressure I was saying that only because it was way over filled and I figured to much fluid plus the added pressure would cause it to break... But that could be wrong. It could have been the converter was not seated all the way. But I drove it for maybe 100 or so miles before the tune without a problem then got the tune and it went out on the way home. So that's why I said that, if that's wrong then hey its wrong lol im not a trans expert.
As for the car moving no it feels like the pump is broke but it goes into gear. And the pump isn't broke because when I do start it the fluid will go down then if I turn it off it goes back up. Which is what I was told/read is another way to tell if the pump is shot without dropping it.
As for the line pressure I was saying that only because it was way over filled and I figured to much fluid plus the added pressure would cause it to break... But that could be wrong. It could have been the converter was not seated all the way. But I drove it for maybe 100 or so miles before the tune without a problem then got the tune and it went out on the way home. So that's why I said that, if that's wrong then hey its wrong lol im not a trans expert.
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When you pushed the converter into the trans did you feel it more or less go into the pump? It should kinda "pop" in there... The front pumps on these trans are VERY brittle. You should be spinning and pushing the converter into the trans when you put it in.
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Any chance you can hook up a pressure gauge to the trans?
Are you saying that neither forward nor reverse work?
(They have very little in common hydraulically and mechanically).
Can you try with the rear wheels off the ground?
There is often enough friction between the forward clutches to turn the rear wheels (when off the ground) even in Neutral.
I don't have enough experience with real-world-problems to give you the most likely culprits. Hopefully someone else has other ideas. In any case, answers to the above questions will help.
Are you saying that neither forward nor reverse work?
(They have very little in common hydraulically and mechanically).
Can you try with the rear wheels off the ground?
There is often enough friction between the forward clutches to turn the rear wheels (when off the ground) even in Neutral.
I don't have enough experience with real-world-problems to give you the most likely culprits. Hopefully someone else has other ideas. In any case, answers to the above questions will help.
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ChadStress: yes I felt it clunk in three times the last two where very easy.
Mrvedit: I can't answer this because im out of town for work and the trans is out of the car.
Carlsonauto: can you be a little more specific by chance?
Mrvedit: I can't answer this because im out of town for work and the trans is out of the car.
Carlsonauto: can you be a little more specific by chance?
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There wasn't any o rings on the bolts when I removed them...
As for the car moving no it feels like the pump is broke but it goes into gear. And the pump isn't broke because when I do start it the fluid will go down then if I turn it off it goes back up. Which is what I was told/read is another way to tell if the pump is shot without dropping it.
As for the line pressure I was saying that only because it was way over filled and I figured to much fluid plus the added pressure would cause it to break... But that could be wrong. It could have been the converter was not seated all the way. But I drove it for maybe 100 or so miles before the tune without a problem then got the tune and it went out on the way home. So that's why I said that, if that's wrong then hey its wrong lol im not a trans expert.
As for the car moving no it feels like the pump is broke but it goes into gear. And the pump isn't broke because when I do start it the fluid will go down then if I turn it off it goes back up. Which is what I was told/read is another way to tell if the pump is shot without dropping it.
As for the line pressure I was saying that only because it was way over filled and I figured to much fluid plus the added pressure would cause it to break... But that could be wrong. It could have been the converter was not seated all the way. But I drove it for maybe 100 or so miles before the tune without a problem then got the tune and it went out on the way home. So that's why I said that, if that's wrong then hey its wrong lol im not a trans expert.
This does not make sense,it can't go in gear and then not move. You either have a pump or a converter problem.As for the pump bolts all 4l60's have pump bolt o rings so they might have been mis placed or overlooked if they had to have been there before otherwise it would have leaked before you swapped pumps.When you put in gear and it does not move does the speedo move when you give it gas?
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There is a little plastic screen that pushes into the pump body from the outside diameter of the pump its usually white and has a o-ring on it. If it got left out it will leak off about 90% of the line pressure. I will try to find a picture of it and post a link.
Last edited by carlsonauto; 12-19-2012 at 09:51 AM.
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No just tach. And it kinda moves forward but not backwards but that could be just the levelness of the floor. And I know it goes into gear because I can fill it and the rpms go down. I just don't think it has enough line pressure due to me not having those o-rings, and that little screen. When I get back in town on sat ill be able to take a closer look and see if I can get better info.