Car is fine in 1,2 but slips in 3 & 4
#1
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Car is fine in 1,2 but slips in 3 & 4
Recently it would shudder on the 3-4 shift. Now i noticed on highway in 4th it would rev up but not speed up.
Now it seemed like 3 and 4 gear is slipping.
I tried driving in gear 3 and the 1st and 2nd gear go through like no problem but when it shifts to 3 you can feel it slipping where the rpm's go up and the car hardly gets any faster.
I tried to read a little on it but found a few different scenarios.
I was quoted $1900 for a rebuild job with a new converter all put in. Just want to see what everyone's insight is on this.
Now it seemed like 3 and 4 gear is slipping.
I tried driving in gear 3 and the 1st and 2nd gear go through like no problem but when it shifts to 3 you can feel it slipping where the rpm's go up and the car hardly gets any faster.
I tried to read a little on it but found a few different scenarios.
I was quoted $1900 for a rebuild job with a new converter all put in. Just want to see what everyone's insight is on this.
#2
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It is one of the most commonly mentioned problems here - a burnt out 3-4 clutch.
Assuming the $1900 includes removing/installing the trans, the prices is not out of line. Be sure they use a 7 (or even 8) friction clutch and a new style heat-treated sun shell. I usually recommend using a 4L65E rebuilt kit as that includes the 7-friction clutch, but am not sure if all the kit's parts will work with a '97 trans. (Since your engine is an early LS1, I suspect the trans is more like a '98 and a 4L65E kit should be fine.)
Assuming the $1900 includes removing/installing the trans, the prices is not out of line. Be sure they use a 7 (or even 8) friction clutch and a new style heat-treated sun shell. I usually recommend using a 4L65E rebuilt kit as that includes the 7-friction clutch, but am not sure if all the kit's parts will work with a '97 trans. (Since your engine is an early LS1, I suspect the trans is more like a '98 and a 4L65E kit should be fine.)
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Its actually an 00 motor and trans. The car is fine in 1 and two. It shifts to 3&4 but slips there and accelerates slow in those gears and rev's high. Is there anything to fix besides a rebuild? Want to be sure.
Got another rebulid and install. Quote for 1495
Got another rebulid and install. Quote for 1495
#4
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The exact same symptoms are mentioned here just about every week and the answer is always the same - you need a rebuild because the 3-4 clutch is toast. Occasionally someone reports the problem immediately after a rebuild which indicates an assembly mistake or oversight, but even then if it has slipped even a modest amount the clutch needs to be replaced. Sorry not to have a cheaper suggestion.
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yea i know its common. Most stuff i was reading was people just reved like it was in neutral in 3&4. My car actually drives in those gears but it revs high before it gets going. Almost like i have a big converter in the car.
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#8
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If carsonauto says its low, that it is suspiciously low, especially for Long Island. I know my local shop would charge about $2000 and no one is getting rich there.
With a 12 year old trans, you should get in writing that the rebuild includes:
* Complete rebuild of trans and pump with all new frictions and steels
* All new bushings and bearings
* New pump rotor, slide and vanes
* All new solenoids and internal wiring harness
* Replacement of TCC and AFL valves in Valve body
* New separator plate
* New accumulator pistons and springs
(Might ask for a Transgo HD2 kit for a bit extra)
* Replacement of 3rd accumulator check ball (if needed?)
* New GM sun shell
* Rebuild of servo with new seals
* ? New Reverse drum ??
* (I might be missing something here)
I'll bet the $1495 quote doesn't include all that, but then they will say it is all needed for an extra $500+.
Just my opinion of course.
With a 12 year old trans, you should get in writing that the rebuild includes:
* Complete rebuild of trans and pump with all new frictions and steels
* All new bushings and bearings
* New pump rotor, slide and vanes
* All new solenoids and internal wiring harness
* Replacement of TCC and AFL valves in Valve body
* New separator plate
* New accumulator pistons and springs
(Might ask for a Transgo HD2 kit for a bit extra)
* Replacement of 3rd accumulator check ball (if needed?)
* New GM sun shell
* Rebuild of servo with new seals
* ? New Reverse drum ??
* (I might be missing something here)
I'll bet the $1495 quote doesn't include all that, but then they will say it is all needed for an extra $500+.
Just my opinion of course.
#11
yes it is a overhaul kit only includes clutches and seals just replacing them is not a correct rebuild and will not last long in a high mileage car like putting new rings and bearings in a 150k mile engine with out machine work im located in west virginia i get 1900 to rebuild a 4l60 and install it
#12
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One issue is that any reputable builder will be unwilling to "purposely" do a bad job as that can affect reputation and liability. Imagine putting a complex assembly together with the pieces don't fit right.
I see people selling rebuilt 4l60E on Craigslist for $600; obviously they have cut a few corners and will likely only survive a V6 engine. Now consider it will still cost $600 to remove and replace the trans. Add a super-cheap (and highly questionable) $600 rebuild and you are at $1200 with basically no warranty. That is two-thirds of the way to a quality rebuild with full warranty. Ask the local shop for a transferable warranty and that might help you sell the car.
Sorry to "pressure" you like this, but this forum is full of stories of people who tried to go cheap and ended up spending thousands more (and months of aggravation) than if they had make the slightly more expensive and better choice in the first place.
#14
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Also if they know you are posting on this forum they might be a bit more careful and not try to sell you muffler bearings.
More experienced people might correct me, but it seems that if something goes wrong with a rebuild, it usually does within a few weeks.
Keep us posted and I hope it goes well; probably will.
#16
Typically yes if there is a problem with something done in error on a rebuild it will show up sooner than later but if inferior parts were installed they may last forever which isnt likely or last a year or two its hard to say. I have built them in the past without doing anything with the tcc reg and afl issues before and never had any issues.. only takes one time having an issue 3 weeks later and looking like a fool to learn that lesson tho...
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got the car back today. Hood got scratched pretty bad and i had to buff it all out. The guy tried to deny it but would have a body shop he knows buff it. passed on that.
Problem i am having is with the car off and keys out i can wiggle the shifter into reverse and the car starts rolling.
Shift linkage ?
Problem i am having is with the car off and keys out i can wiggle the shifter into reverse and the car starts rolling.
Shift linkage ?