tranmission stuck to engine
tranmission stuck to engine I'm in the process of removing the 4l60e from my 2000 trans am. I have all the bolts out, I triple checked. the transmission remains stuck. I even tried prying on it through the starter hole. wouldn't budge. anyone dealt with this problem?
another thing, I haven't removed the torque convertor bolts, I was told the convertor would slide off the input shaft.
another thing, I haven't removed the torque convertor bolts, I was told the convertor would slide off the input shaft.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
And be sure you have the bolt at the 12 O'Clock position out. (Someone missed that one in a similar post this week.)
I recommend putting the bolts near the 3 O'Clock and 9 O'Clock positions back in with 1/2" play; this ensures the trans doesn't drop. The side to side on the tail housing until the dowels release.
I recommend putting the bolts near the 3 O'Clock and 9 O'Clock positions back in with 1/2" play; this ensures the trans doesn't drop. The side to side on the tail housing until the dowels release.
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Verdad Gallardo thanks for all the input! I do have every bolt out. I count 8 in my hand lol. plus I have the engine crossmember lowered so I can clearly see the entire bellhousing. I tried a chisel and hammer to wedge them apart and that didn't work either. maybe pb blaster on the dowel pins??
honestly man, throw on some angry music, get pissed off like you wanna fight the world and shake the thing while yelling. if that method doesnt work then well keep brainstorming
YOU NEED TO TAKE THE CONVERTER BOLTS OUT!!!!!!!! IT IS NOT GOING TO JUST SLIDE RIGHT OFF!
The converter is seated in the trans in the pump and the converter is connected to the flexplate which is bolted to the engine. It is not going to come out unless you:
A. Take the bolts out
B. Spin the converter while pulling the trans to free it from the pump.
The converter is seated in the trans in the pump and the converter is connected to the flexplate which is bolted to the engine. It is not going to come out unless you:
A. Take the bolts out
B. Spin the converter while pulling the trans to free it from the pump.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
YOU NEED TO TAKE THE CONVERTER BOLTS OUT!!!!!!!! IT IS NOT GOING TO JUST SLIDE RIGHT OFF!
The converter is seated in the trans in the pump and the converter is connected to the flexplate which is bolted to the engine. It is not going to come out unless you:
A. Take the bolts out
B. Spin the converter while pulling the trans to free it from the pump.
The converter is seated in the trans in the pump and the converter is connected to the flexplate which is bolted to the engine. It is not going to come out unless you:
A. Take the bolts out
B. Spin the converter while pulling the trans to free it from the pump.
There is nothing that directly connects the converter to the pump; it does just slide off. Perhaps there are some converters somewhere that "hook" to the pump, but I have never seen one in various brands of cars I have worked on.
However I would highly recommend always removing the converter bolts before pulling the trans. ESPECIALLY if the trans is hung up on the dowels. Otherwise, if the trans releases at an angle, it could bend the input shaft or damage the converter.
I humbly would like to disagree with your conclusion, but not your intention.
There is nothing that directly connects the converter to the pump; it does just slide off. Perhaps there are some converters somewhere that "hook" to the pump, but I have never seen one in various brands of cars I have worked on.
However I would highly recommend always removing the converter bolts before pulling the trans. ESPECIALLY if the trans is hung up on the dowels. Otherwise, if the trans releases at an angle, it could bend the input shaft or damage the converter.
There is nothing that directly connects the converter to the pump; it does just slide off. Perhaps there are some converters somewhere that "hook" to the pump, but I have never seen one in various brands of cars I have worked on.
However I would highly recommend always removing the converter bolts before pulling the trans. ESPECIALLY if the trans is hung up on the dowels. Otherwise, if the trans releases at an angle, it could bend the input shaft or damage the converter.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
The stock converter bolts can be a bitch to remove.
Search the forum for "converter bolts torx" to get some hints.
Here is one thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/florida-m...ter-bolts.html
I'm pretty sure everyone here replaces them with hex bolts.
Personally I just use standard Grade-10 metric fine-thread bolts; it is important to have the correct length. IIRC with the stock flexplate it is only 15mm; it is more with an Aluminum SFI flexplate.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, MN
Not sure how the auto tranmissions are setup, but on my t-56 there are slots on either side of the trans that allow you to insert a pry bar. Even with pry bars I had to fight to get mine off. Getting angry is a good suggestion - just dont go overboard and F something up. Lots of aluminum down there.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Not sure how the auto tranmissions are setup, but on my t-56 there are slots on either side of the trans that allow you to insert a pry bar. Even with pry bars I had to fight to get mine off. Getting angry is a good suggestion - just dont go overboard and F something up. Lots of aluminum down there.
Personally I use a 1/2" 200ft/lb battery impact wrench to remove the torque converter bolts. Alternatively you need an assistant with a 24mm socket on the crankshaft bolt.
do not pry on the block to remove the trans!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just bought a car for 2k because the guy ******* broke the block all the way up pass the dowel pin on the starter side.
I used a 10k ratchet strap to the rear end pops right off
I just bought a car for 2k because the guy ******* broke the block all the way up pass the dowel pin on the starter side.
I used a 10k ratchet strap to the rear end pops right off
yeah, had the same problem when i installed my converter, you need to support the transmission with something and grab the tail and shake the **** out of it, spraying down around where the tranny meets the block and dowl pins help too, aluminum on aluminum never like each other