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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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Default Converter spacing confusion

So I have my trans mounted back up to the car and I made sure I fully seated the converter which showed a measurement of 1 1/16 from bellhousing to converter pad.

When I look through the window on the bellhousing I see this...



I used feeler gauges and it measured out to .283

I have these spacers



and when the spacer is put on I still have this much of a gap...which reads as .245

Should I be using a thicker shim than what I currently have?
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:25 PM
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Your measurement from your belhousing to converter pad seems right. It should be right around 1&1/8.


On the 4l60e you want to have under 3/16ths gap or .187mm. 1/8 is about perfect.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:27 PM
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Btw sticking a drill bit up in there is a good way to see how far out you are..
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:28 PM
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Yea I only have feeler gauges no drill bits yet lol...after I finish this car I'm gonna start modding the garage lol
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:29 PM
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If I subtract .187 from .283 I get .096 so does that mean I need a shim that is .096 or thicker?
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:43 PM
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This is with a 1/4 drill bit. It's the only bit I have

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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 04:04 PM
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Looks like I need a .125 shim
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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I'd say your right^
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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If you have calipers, measure the washers to get three as close to the same thickness as possible; both to prevent twisting the flexplate and for balance.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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I bought ARP shim washers that are .120. I'll double check them but I know they have tight quality control. They'll be here tomorrow, none of the hardware stores around here had .125 washers for some reason.

At least none I could find...
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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Perfect - ARP should have tight QC. I just use hardware store Grade 8 washers, but have to measure them. They also only vary between about .08 and .10, never .125.
Glad you are measuring everything carefully.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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Well I don't want to damage my pump, I'm already worried because when I was putting my driveshaft back into the trans I noticed some play on the imput shaft. I'll start saving for a new trans lol
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Old Mar 15, 2013 | 03:18 AM
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You should be good with the ARP setup. Good job taking the time to get it right.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
You should be good with the ARP setup. Good job taking the time to get it right.
Yup got it all in, I wanted to make sure it was done correctly. I've been driving it around so I can go back and recheck my bolts.

I accidentally put a little too much fluid in and it puked on my garage floor lol. When I added more it showed low but then leaked some. Drove around some more and the leaking stopped.

I just swapped out my MS3 for a F13 and the car feels way better. I can't wait to get tuned for this cam.

I have a shitty 2.73 rear end in right now and I was gonna do a 3.73 swap but after calling around for prices I don't think I want to drop $5-700 on a 10 bolt. Also from what I've read the only thing ill really Gabe is tightening up the stall from a stop.

So next up is a rearend fund lol
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 03:54 AM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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For $200 in tools you can do the rear end yourself, and learn a little during the process. I started with one and now do them for local guys usually for little to no money bc it is a fun challenge. I've probably done a dozen over the course of a few years. I saved some change on my 12 bolt bc I bought it disassembled. I've also used that experience to venture into doing ATV rear ends too. Knowledge is power brother, see what you're capable of.
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Old Mar 16, 2013 | 12:29 PM
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I do have a spare 10 bolt that I busted the pinion gear on that I could practice on lol
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