Torque Converter with no tune?
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Torque Converter with no tune?
I've been searching but can't find a clear answer on this. I know I can drive the car on a stock tune with a aftermarket converter. I know that getting a tune for the stall converter is largely advised and I'm just waitin til Christmas to be over to get the tune. But my question is can I do any WOT pulls in it without the tune or will that tear some stuff up? Its a PTC 3600 converter.
#2
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Perhaps more important than even a tune is a good aftermarket cooler to keep the trans fluid temperature down.
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think a few(!) WOT runs will hurt anything, other than perhaps heat the trans more than it should (assuming no aftermarket trans cooler). However, without a tune, you might end up in "limp" mode with the trans starting in 3rd gear. Restarting the engine usually clears that problem, but only temporarily.
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think a few(!) WOT runs will hurt anything, other than perhaps heat the trans more than it should (assuming no aftermarket trans cooler). However, without a tune, you might end up in "limp" mode with the trans starting in 3rd gear. Restarting the engine usually clears that problem, but only temporarily.
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Well I have a transcooler so that isn't a problem. Not to mention its about 40 degrees on average here right now. I just want to make absolute sure that I wont damage anything if I do some WOT pulls.
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"It will be fine" as in more than likely or you guarantee that I can get on it whenever I want and nothing bad will happen from it being on the stock tune? Sorry about being so **** dude but this is my dd and the love of my life. Can't afford something going wrong right now so I need to be absolute sure.
#6
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No one will "guarantee" anything here.
While 01ssreda4 and I are both cautious and try to give good advice, S**T happens.
We are just saying that if WOT blows something up, it won't be because of a lack of tune.
A high-stall "tune" mostly tells the computer to reduce its sensitivity to engine misfire and trans slippage; also the WOT shift MPH needs to be reduced by a few percent.
Without a tune, you may hit redline before the trans shifts. Or the trans will go into "limp" mode.
Whether your engine, transmission and drivetrain can handle WOT has nothing to do with the tune.
While 01ssreda4 and I are both cautious and try to give good advice, S**T happens.
We are just saying that if WOT blows something up, it won't be because of a lack of tune.
A high-stall "tune" mostly tells the computer to reduce its sensitivity to engine misfire and trans slippage; also the WOT shift MPH needs to be reduced by a few percent.
Without a tune, you may hit redline before the trans shifts. Or the trans will go into "limp" mode.
Whether your engine, transmission and drivetrain can handle WOT has nothing to do with the tune.
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Honestly, I drove with a 3200 for a while with no tune and it was fine. The converter won't physically harm anything. When I switched to a 4k (tuned) I started getting a shift error code. If, after your trans shifts, you gas it, the rpms rise due to converter flare. The computer sees this as a non-shift. When it commands a shift it looks for rpm drop. If it doesn't happen enough to satisfy the computer it may throw an SES light and possibly disable some functions of the trans like converter lock up. This is easily reset by turning the key off. It is annoying but this dummy code can be easily turned off in the tune, which I later did. In the meantime, I simply did not gas it directly after a shift.
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I have a "3800" stall (FTI) on my car with no tune, yet. I got the transmission rebuilt last week so I had to take it easy for a few hundred miles. I finally went WOT with it, WOW!!!! It shifted fine and crisp. Personally, I wouldnt it do it too often without the tune, but you should be fine for the time being.
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Well, shifts get amazingly weak after a converter, remember they weren't great to begin with. I've found I really prefer a firm, solid feeling shift even at low throttle. It's confidence inspiring to me. But, the car can barely do this stock, and when you add a big converter that soaks up all the shift feel, well it's like riding in a luxury car. By adding some line pressure (in the tune) to the upshifts it makes the car feel brand new again. Highly recommended along with your other tuning!
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I have the converter in my Sig, its moderately loose and I have no problems. A tune isn't really necessary right off the back.
BTW, I've been WOT alot, actually put 3k miles on the car after the converter install.... in two weeks lol. That's how much fun I was having. It's been a whole now, almost 5 months and 10k miles and all is good.
BTW, I've been WOT alot, actually put 3k miles on the car after the converter install.... in two weeks lol. That's how much fun I was having. It's been a whole now, almost 5 months and 10k miles and all is good.
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Yea I was driving it for a couple days with no tune. I was having a blast with it but it kept throwin a P0757 code and going into limp mode. So I sent the PCM to Frost. Bad part is I drove the car for like 3 days with absolute no problems whatsoever and then randomly got the p0757 code yesterday. I'm gonna keep driving it til it throws the code again. Hopefully it doesn't but if it does I'll email Frost and see if its just something he forgot to tune out or what.
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I was told by Tim at ptc to have the car tuned so that pwm is not functional and to make sure lock up doesn't apply until throttle is below 30 percent. Driving it untuned with stock trans is damaging the lock up clutch ptc converters are not billet units with upgraded Lu clutch
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I was told by Tim at ptc to have the car tuned so that pwm is not functional and to make sure lock up doesn't apply until throttle is below 30 percent. Driving it untuned with stock trans is damaging the lock up clutch ptc converters are not billet units with upgraded Lu clutch