Looking for feedback on replacing flexplate and rear main seal
Looking for feedback on replacing flexplate and rear main seal Ive watched a few videos and read a few sites on the process and of course all with different time lines and issues during the process..
Just looking for some first hand experience from others that have done this.. how long it took, can it be done alone and/or with help in a weekend? a day? few days?
I do have all the tools needs, just don't have a garage to do it in, so would be out in the driveway.
Just looking for some first hand experience from others that have done this.. how long it took, can it be done alone and/or with help in a weekend? a day? few days?
I do have all the tools needs, just don't have a garage to do it in, so would be out in the driveway.
You can do it in a day on your back. You might need a helper to hold things for you and get tools under the car for you. Just take your time and as you take the bolts out put them in individual paper cups or containers so you will know where they go.
So def something that can be done in a full day in the driveway with the car jacked real high..
what about the rear main seal? I was reading somewhere, not sure if I bookmarked it, but mentioned needing a special tool? is that really needed?
what about the rear main seal? I was reading somewhere, not sure if I bookmarked it, but mentioned needing a special tool? is that really needed?
You can def do all the work by yourself. Heck i dropped my transmission a couple times by myself and put everything back in a day. As long as you have the car lifted as high as possibly with additions of safety support in case jack stands fail, you shouldn't have trouble knocking everything down in 4 hours or less without interruptions and having your tools at arms reach.
No special tool required to remove flexplate. Easy to remove all bolts as long as you lock up the front crank shaft pulley so the flex plate wont try to rotate as your loosening the bolts.
Are you replacing the rear main crank seal? or doing a combo with rear main cover? I would do both since your in their already. easy to do both.
Also since you have the tranny down, check the oil pressure sensor located behind the intake manifold to see if its leaking as those tend to leak from time to time. Having the transmission off gives you better access in case it needs to be swapped as it is hard to do some from atop.
No special tool required to remove flexplate. Easy to remove all bolts as long as you lock up the front crank shaft pulley so the flex plate wont try to rotate as your loosening the bolts.
Are you replacing the rear main crank seal? or doing a combo with rear main cover? I would do both since your in their already. easy to do both.
Also since you have the tranny down, check the oil pressure sensor located behind the intake manifold to see if its leaking as those tend to leak from time to time. Having the transmission off gives you better access in case it needs to be swapped as it is hard to do some from atop.
Yea I keep reading to do the rear main seal while Im there, but looking online I found 2 setups, one just the seal and one kit with the cover also.. not a big price difference, so I would probably do the cover also..
Ill price the sensor and replace while im there if not outrageous.
I found some postings stating to drop the exhaust and some say not to, I guess that's preference..
As for jacking up the car, I was going to use my truck jack stands to carry the weight and then some 2x4 supports to go under the actual tires..
Ill price the sensor and replace while im there if not outrageous.
I found some postings stating to drop the exhaust and some say not to, I guess that's preference..
As for jacking up the car, I was going to use my truck jack stands to carry the weight and then some 2x4 supports to go under the actual tires..
I found it much easier to move around under the car with the down pipes and y pipe removed as it gave me more room to move under the car comfortably. It doesn't take too much of your time to remove a few bolts and get that out of the way. I also removed my drive shaft and anything that went from the trans to the rear so i could slide in and out in any angle with the creeper. If you don't have a trans jack just make a square cut out of a wood sheet and that way you could place it between the jack and the trans oil pan. Lets you manuever the trans much more easier and safer than without.
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Lots of extensions, god I hate dropping the auto trans. The one thing I dread doing to my car. With worn stock motor mounts it makes the job easy, with polys I had to lower the k member some to get to the bolts.
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Verdad Gallardo 01ssreda4 damn, you didn't get any play with the polys huh. Extra work to do as the polys didn't let the motor hang to get to the top tranny bolt.
thanks everyone, I really appreciate the feedback and suggestions. Need to make sure that I have all the right sizes and such and wait til the weather warms up a bit to get it done.. plus order the parts to have ready..
Now, when it comes time to put back together, is there a good site or source to get the torque specs on everything?
Now, when it comes time to put back together, is there a good site or source to get the torque specs on everything?
Here you go,
go to the Transmission section and click on Torque Converter Install for LS1 Fbodies. You will find all the torque specs there.
http://bowlingss.com/ls1_how_to.htm
Easy to follow instructions with step by step picture illustration on removing your transmission and torque coverter
go to the Transmission section and click on Torque Converter Install for LS1 Fbodies. You will find all the torque specs there.
http://bowlingss.com/ls1_how_to.htm
Easy to follow instructions with step by step picture illustration on removing your transmission and torque coverter
Last edited by SickZ28; Feb 11, 2014 at 11:58 AM.
anything else I should check while under there that would be easier to change now than later?
any other sensors? seals?
Actually something else I was going ask, when I called another shop today for quote on replacing the flex plate, they asked if it was 168 or 162 tooth?
Arent they 168? and would it make a difference if it was one or the other?
any other sensors? seals?
Actually something else I was going ask, when I called another shop today for quote on replacing the flex plate, they asked if it was 168 or 162 tooth?
Arent they 168? and would it make a difference if it was one or the other?
Last edited by CubanGT; Feb 11, 2014 at 03:13 PM.
Something I was just thinking about also, I can post in a new thread if this is not the place for it.. But if im going to push back or drop the trans to do this swap.. would access to the exhaust manifolds and cats be easier? I ask because the cats needed to be changed a long time ago and we bought hi flow ones and have never installed because of the labor involved.. so just trying to see what I can do even if it takes a bit longer to install now and save myself the trouble later.
the 162 tooth flex plate is for i believe a 10" small size stall and the 168 tooth is for the 12" stall.
You should have the 12" stall in your TA but you could always wait to purchase until you remove your current flexplate.
Also why do you want to swap out your flexplate??????? If your just addressing the rear main seal leak you don't need to change the flexplate.
If you still have the stock exhaust manifolds, your dump pipes would be bolted up to the sides of the transmission which is easy access to as all 3 bolts on the flange come off from under the car. Since they are easy to take you can have someone take your down pipes to a muffler shop to swap out your cats meantime you remove your tranny or swap out the cats after you bolt up the transmission back up.
You should have the 12" stall in your TA but you could always wait to purchase until you remove your current flexplate.
Also why do you want to swap out your flexplate??????? If your just addressing the rear main seal leak you don't need to change the flexplate.
If you still have the stock exhaust manifolds, your dump pipes would be bolted up to the sides of the transmission which is easy access to as all 3 bolts on the flange come off from under the car. Since they are easy to take you can have someone take your down pipes to a muffler shop to swap out your cats meantime you remove your tranny or swap out the cats after you bolt up the transmission back up.
im changing the flex plate because that is where my ticking sound is coming from.. using my stethoscope the tick is really loud at the housing next to the starter. So replacing that and while im there replacing the rear seal and oil sensor.. just looking for other sensors or seals that may need replacing or should be replaced while I have everything removed.
If I have the cats replaced on just the pipes, isn't there a chance that the pipes wont line up when I go to reinstall? the entire exhaust except the muffler is stock pipes and cats.
If I have the cats replaced on just the pipes, isn't there a chance that the pipes wont line up when I go to reinstall? the entire exhaust except the muffler is stock pipes and cats.
If i were you, i would drive my car over to the muffler shop and have them replace the muffler with the car present. Some cats can be either larger or smaller compare to the stock ones in which the tech will need to see which angle works best for clearance issues and reconnecting the O2's. Also they will be able to determine if they need to be change from position. Once you change headers everything is going to be shifted around for clearance.
i had a ticking like a cracked flexplate on a 700r4 a few years ago
pulled it, had it magnafluxed…no cracks
eventually chased it to the torque converter. something had come loose.
came and went with rpm, especially at low rpm…stopped in gear.
find a good local TC shop, they'll cut em open and freshen em up for very reasonable
good luck rasslin that tranny in and out
pulled it, had it magnafluxed…no cracks
eventually chased it to the torque converter. something had come loose.
came and went with rpm, especially at low rpm…stopped in gear.
find a good local TC shop, they'll cut em open and freshen em up for very reasonable
good luck rasslin that tranny in and out