csr alum. flexplate, midwest converter gap?
#1
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Hey guys, quick rundown. I installed a rossler 4l60e onto my ls1 with a new csr billet flexplate and midwest racing converter inbetween. When I went to go check the gap between the pads and flexplate, was supprised to see around a .400 gap on all 3 pads. I never hear of anyone running a .275 spacer to shim it in spec.
I tried doing some research, some say the they had problems and the csr piece is junk etc inconclusive info. I bought from fti hopefully they will chime in.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I tried doing some research, some say the they had problems and the csr piece is junk etc inconclusive info. I bought from fti hopefully they will chime in.
Anyone have any suggestions?
#2
Moderator
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I could be way off here, but doesn't this sounds like the expected gap if an LT1 4L60E with an LT1 converter to bolted to an LS1 engine?
Did you by chance order a 4L60E for a '96 car? That would be an LT1 and would explain the gap.
Did you by chance order a 4L60E for a '96 car? That would be an LT1 and would explain the gap.
#4
FormerVendor
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Flexplate should measure about .550-.575 in overall height. Converter should measure 6.500-6.550 - hub to converter pad. See if you can get those measurements and report back. If something is way off maybe you have a 4L60 LT style converter, which measures 5.950 range. But shimming that much could pull the converter pilot of of the crank, which is a very bad thing.
Chris
Chris
#5
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Flexplate should measure about .550-.575 in overall height. Converter should measure 6.500-6.550 - hub to converter pad. See if you can get those measurements and report back. If something is way off maybe you have a 4L60 LT style converter, which measures 5.950 range. But shimming that much could pull the converter pilot of of the crank, which is a very bad thing.
Chris
Chris
I called up Fti, Gregg thinks the converter was built for a truck motor. I didn't realize there was a difference in crank lengths or flexplates except when using 4l80e.
Chris I will check those and get back to you. Thanks for the help!
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#8
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With the converter height that I gave ya, and from the numbers you know can I safely use this converter ? While still keeping the pump engaged and the pilot inserted?
Thanks!
#9
FormerVendor
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Cutting the converter open will not shorten it, just reduce the overlap which can cause problems when you weld it back together. .275 shim is big. With the tapers on the crank and converter pilot, you might not get enough in there to center it. I suggest to do some measurements to check the engagement depth. I would like to see at least .150 of good engaugment.
Chris
Chris
#10
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Cutting the converter open will not shorten it, just reduce the overlap which can cause problems when you weld it back together. .275 shim is big. With the tapers on the crank and converter pilot, you might not get enough in there to center it. I suggest to do some measurements to check the engagement depth. I would like to see at least .150 of good engaugment.
Chris
Chris
What's the minimum engagement for the snout into the pump?
#14
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Ok I took all the measurements.
Rossler says gap the converter 1/8-3/16
If i space my converter to the maximum 3/16 (using a single precision ground .233 shim), I have .122 engagement from the leading edge of the pilot into the crank, but half of that is chamfer, so figure only .05-.06 is making contact.
Should I try it with this^^^ info or send it out to get lengthened or get a new one? I'd like to try just to get it running but I don't want to hurt anything.
Rossler says gap the converter 1/8-3/16
If i space my converter to the maximum 3/16 (using a single precision ground .233 shim), I have .122 engagement from the leading edge of the pilot into the crank, but half of that is chamfer, so figure only .05-.06 is making contact.
Should I try it with this^^^ info or send it out to get lengthened or get a new one? I'd like to try just to get it running but I don't want to hurt anything.
Last edited by droksformula; 04-24-2014 at 07:28 PM.
#15
FormerVendor
iTrader: (21)
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Ok I took all the measurements.
Rossler says gap the converter 1/8-3/16
If i space my converter to the maximum 3/16 (using a single precision ground .233 shim), I have .122 engagement from the leading edge of the pilot into the crank, but half of that is chamfer, so figure only .05-.06 is making contact.
Should I try it with this^^^ info or send it out to get lengthened or get a new one? I'd like to try just to get it running but I don't want to hurt anything.
Rossler says gap the converter 1/8-3/16
If i space my converter to the maximum 3/16 (using a single precision ground .233 shim), I have .122 engagement from the leading edge of the pilot into the crank, but half of that is chamfer, so figure only .05-.06 is making contact.
Should I try it with this^^^ info or send it out to get lengthened or get a new one? I'd like to try just to get it running but I don't want to hurt anything.
Chris
#16
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I also found this, what do you think? Ok for high performance applications? I'd have to machine the thickness down a little at work but looks like an option.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...63532/10002/-1
#17
FormerVendor
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I can't but I have a friend who can weld like a champ. Would there be a concern of balancing in welding that on? How much?
I also found this, what do you think? Ok for high performance applications? I'd have to machine the thickness down a little at work but looks like an option.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...63532/10002/-1
I also found this, what do you think? Ok for high performance applications? I'd have to machine the thickness down a little at work but looks like an option.
http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...63532/10002/-1
Not sure the GM adapter from Jegs will work. It centers off the OE crank, and I think the CSR flexplate is thicker and there is not enough lip sticking through. You can easily check that.
You will also need some longer bolts for the converter using that big of a shim.
Chris