vipergtrdj

I am going to be swapping my 4L60E to a 4L80E (has 80k miles) that a friend of mine gave me. He said that it was fine and he drove it fine until one day he noticed 2nd and 3rd seem to be slipping and only happened once. He drove 2 miles home and it slipped once. He then realized his transmission lines had a leak so he replaced them but at the same time swapped the transmission too. So no real diagnoses to the slipping problem.

Besides the low fluid causing the minor slipping in 2nd and 3rd, what else could be the cause of it? Checked the fluid and the fluid was clean and didn't smell burnt at all.

Also - what/if anything, should be done to the 4L80E before I swap it in ?

00SlvrSS

Best thing to do is get the tranny refreshed with new clutches. It has 80k miles on it. And if you're getting it for recreational puprpse or leisure purposes would be the determining factor in most cases. I wouldn't take the risk.

hrcslam

I'd rebuild it while it is out. If you can do it yourself it should cost only a few hundred more than not doing it at all. A shop will cost you a lot more though.

vipergtrdj

How are they to rebuild compared to a 4L60E?

vipergtrdj

And while I have it torn apart, anything worth upgrading besides doing a shift kit ? I know very little about the internals of a 4l80e

00SlvrSS

The 4l80, is much stronger than the 4l60 and, in most cases, stronger than anything you can put in front of it. Get a good stall and you will be fine.

00SlvrSS

The 4l80, is much stronger than the 4l60 and, in most cases, stronger than anything you can put in front of it. Get a good stall and you will be fine.

hrcslam

I've done a few different trans rebuilds, but never a 4L80e. I'd imagine the premise and therefore difficulty would be the same.

NorthTexasConverter

You'll need more than just a good converter to have the 80E be stronger than most things you can put in front of it, I can definitely promise you that. But having even a bone stock 80E is a good first step over many fully built 60Es IMO.

Also IMO, I would say a 4L80E is a bit easier to build than a 60E, but maybe that's just because I've built more 80Es than 60Es overall.

Mystery Bird

iTrader: (7)

I found the 80 to be much easier than the 60 to rebuild and cheaper.

NorthTexasConverter

Cheaper for sure. There are so many aftermarket hard parts that need to be used in a 4L60E that the cost can become quite high, especially if you are adding billet parts. The input shaft isn't too bad, but a billet output shaft is a big chunk of metal and you definitely pay for it.

I'd always recommend to someone who wants to rebuild a transmission to start with an 80E over a 60E. Much more straight forward.

vipergtrdj

Its good to hear that its easier to rebuild then a 60E. The amount of times I have rebuilt that 60E seems like I could have paid someone else to rebuild this 80E .... I picked up a manual for the rebuild and it seems pretty straight forward, not as complex as a 60E. I did take a better look at the 80E and see that the output shaft seal is a bit "blown". Its still in place, but part of it is pushed outwards. Plans for it are rebuild, HD2 shift kit, and drive it

Now my 80E came out of a 2003 or 2004 2500HD. I am looking at rebuild kits (around $200 would be great) and I have seen that they are listed as 1990-1996, then 1996-ON. Was there a big enough difference between them or is this a marketing stunt ? I have been reading that the stock high energy ones are good for 750hp which is more then enough for me.
Not sure which kit - they are similar though

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4L80E-Overdrive-Transmission-Master-High-Energy-Green-Rebuild-Kit-Chevy-GM-97-On-/220710991073?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33636674e1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-4L80E-Overdrive-Transmission-High-Energy-Green-Less-Steel-Rebuild-Kit-1997-Up-/220710990815?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33636673df&vxp=mtr
I am assuming the master kit with the steels.

vipergtrdj

Also forgot to add - HPTuners did the segment swap for me so I will be doing the wire harness changes this weekend. I think I have another VSS plug on my old wire harness but I will have to double check. Does anyone have a BWD part number just incase, then I can pick it up from NAPA.

NorthTexasConverter

Late model rebuild kits have Hi Energy clutches which are a nice upgrade. That's what I and many other builders use as well. I would recommend adding an extra clutch and steel to the direct clutch pack as well as making sure you internally dual feed it, bare minimum.

If you have 60E experience the 80E will be a nice change of pace.

vipergtrdj

For the extra clutch is there clearances like with the 60E clutches? I know There's different thickness steels for the 60E.

Also any write-up about the dual feed ? And anything else I should do while it's torn down ?

vipergtrdj

So after doing a lot of research this past week I have come up with the following parts to order before I tear into the 4L80E ........

• ATSG Techtran manual
• High Energy Green Rebuild kit (minus steels), anyone know where I can order just the steels ?
• High Energy Carbon Fiber front band
• High Energy rear band
• 34 element intermediate sprag
• HD2 shift kit

Am I missing anything ? The rebuild kit comes with the pistons and everything,just not new steels. I can't seem to find a kit that has the steels unless its around $400.

Jake's Performance

iTrader: (2)

It costs me more than $400 for the parts to properly rebuild a 4L80E, and I don't buy a valve body kit.

You're missing all the electronics in your list as well as bushings, etc.

You should be able to find a master kit with steels or buy a separate steel module.

vipergtrdj

Sorry forgot the bushing kit, but I do have that on my list as well. Good call on the solenoids. I did not think of them.

vipergtrdj

Couple pictures of when I took the pan off last week -

NorthTexasConverter

Just a heads up, you're EPC and TCC solenoid are probably totally fine to clean up and reuse. The bigger concern is the shift solenoids, other than that I would save the money by not buying new ones and not worry about it. Wouldn't hurt to replace the wiring harness though. Or the pressure switch manifold