Transmission removal questions
Transmission removal questions Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice on doing my TQ converter swap. First off, can it be done by myself? Is it a 2 man job? I've dropped the trans before but with my dad's help. Also Can the front tires be on ramps or is it easier with just jack stands? I know the higher the better when it comes to doing this without a lift (on the floor). I will be using a trans jack so that may help with me going solo on this one. Also wat is the best way to deal with the dip stick? Let me know your input! Last thing I want to do is start ripping it apart and not be able to get it done.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
The dipstick has one bolt attached to the back of the cylinder head. Then it can be easily pulled out of the trans. To pull a transmission on these cars you have to get them super high off the ground and have about 3 foot of 3/8ths extensions to reach the bolts. Its pretty miserable IMO.
I swapped my converter out by myself earlier this summer with a regualr jack and jackstands. I just dropped the trans and left it under the car. Remove one converter and slide the other one on the input shaft. Wrestle it back on the jack and jack it up back into place. Like 01ss mentioned you will need a 3ft extension and probably a couple more from 12"- 6" totaling close to 4ft to easily reach the top housing bolt from right above the tailshaft housing. I done it in about 5 hours if I remember correctly. I do have LT's and didnt have to remove the oryp. I believe that saved me some time vs the stock stuff but Im not sure as I have never removed a trans on an fbody when stock exhaust was still on. I remove the crossmember and let the trans hang down as far as it will to gain acess to the dipstick bolt. Support the trans some and remove the housing bolts next.
Now is it ok for the trans and engine to lean back? I've worked on my 3.8 f body but haven't done this yet with a ls1. I know the oil pressure sending unit is behind the intake and I'd hate to break that off again(ls6 intake install). I have qtp longtubes and ORY pipe. I'm assuming I should unbolt the y pipe so I can lean the engine back easier. I got some tools but looks like I'm going to need more extensions.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
Now is it ok for the trans and engine to lean back? I've worked on my 3.8 f body but haven't done this yet with a ls1. I know the oil pressure sending unit is behind the intake and I'd hate to break that off again(ls6 intake install). I have qtp longtubes and ORY pipe. I'm assuming I should unbolt the y pipe so I can lean the engine back easier. I got some tools but looks like I'm going to need more extensions.
Yes, let them both lean back, also I was able to leave my ory on and just disconnected the cat back so it could lean, I put my car on four jack stands and pulled the tranny in a one car garage . Also I did not take the bolt totally out for the dip stick, just loosened it so I had some play and carefully guided it down pulling the dipstick out then carefully guiding it in while jacking the tranny back up
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Did mine twice,once for convertor swap and then for tranny replacement(the two removals were not related for cause).
Top bolt is most difficult.
Proper convertor insertion is critical to prevent pump failure. A certain dimension is required between bellhousing surface and convertor bolt pads. Neither the OEM or TCI flexplate to convertor bolts worked for my current Yank SS3600. I had ARP convertor bolts from Summit(bought a couple years back 'in case') that worked perfectly.
Top bolt is most difficult.
Proper convertor insertion is critical to prevent pump failure. A certain dimension is required between bellhousing surface and convertor bolt pads. Neither the OEM or TCI flexplate to convertor bolts worked for my current Yank SS3600. I had ARP convertor bolts from Summit(bought a couple years back 'in case') that worked perfectly.
Did mine twice,once for convertor swap and then for tranny replacement(the two removals were not related for cause). Top bolt is most difficult. Proper convertor insertion is critical to prevent pump failure. A certain dimension is required between bellhousing surface and convertor bolt pads. Neither the OEM or TCI flexplate to convertor bolts worked for my current Yank SS3600. I had ARP convertor bolts from Summit(bought a couple years back 'in case') that worked perfectly.
Having a trans jack made a HUGE difference for me. I pulled the trans out of quite a few 2nd and 3rd gens, and once in my 4th gen all by myself and it has sucked for the most part. This last round I decided to buy a trans jack from harbor freight and it made it so much easier that it pissed me off I had waited so long to get one. I was so amazed at how quickly and easily I got it lined up that I stopped to take a picture 
. It would have been nice to have one that had a little more tilt range to it, but I made due with a small piece of wood to get the right angle.
. It would have been nice to have one that had a little more tilt range to it, but I made due with a small piece of wood to get the right angle. 
Depends on the mounts. I have the UMI aluminum ones. Had to pull the through bolt on the passenger side. That dropped it down enough to get it out. Also made it somewhat of a bitch to line it back up but it was doable.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga On
Just finished my yank ss4000. Took me a couple weeks. Lot's of write ups on here. Couple feet of extentions needed for the top bolts,check gap and good to go. Oh and a tune. The ss4000 is a real animal even with 2.73 rear
Dale
Dale
I pulled the tranny twice in my 3rd gen, both times with my dad. I remeber that for the 700R4, the car had to be atleast 21-23 inches off the ground. We used huge blocks under the tires, coupled with jackstands.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I have been very happy with with the heavier duty Harbor Freight trans jack (compared to the one above). It allows tilting and has a bigger platform and lifts hydraulically. The jack does add 8" of height; with the trans body of 15", I need to get my frame rails 24" off the ground. Pic:
As mentioned, to replace just the converter many people leave the trans under the car within the tunnel area and therefore don't need to lift it so much.
With a good trans jack it is a one man job.
As mentioned getting the 12 O'Clock bolt out is the "biggie". Many people do not bother putting it back in.
As mentioned, to replace just the converter many people leave the trans under the car within the tunnel area and therefore don't need to lift it so much.
With a good trans jack it is a one man job.
As mentioned getting the 12 O'Clock bolt out is the "biggie". Many people do not bother putting it back in.