4l60e shifts from 1st to 3rd (no 2nd)
#1
4l60e shifts from 1st to 3rd (no 2nd)
hello
thanks for all of you for helping me because I have read many threads
I have rebuilt some of 4l60e's successfully but with worn clutches like 3-4
but I have bad experience one year ago with my car had no 2nd and I rebuilt it with no changes so the local shop fixed it.
so now there are two guys ask me to rebuild their two cars transmission in my city
the same problem
the car starts 1st and won't shift to 2nd if the rpm become 3500 or more I let of the gas and it will shift to 3rd
no codes
many threads I have read with no successful
thanks
thanks for all of you for helping me because I have read many threads
I have rebuilt some of 4l60e's successfully but with worn clutches like 3-4
but I have bad experience one year ago with my car had no 2nd and I rebuilt it with no changes so the local shop fixed it.
so now there are two guys ask me to rebuild their two cars transmission in my city
the same problem
the car starts 1st and won't shift to 2nd if the rpm become 3500 or more I let of the gas and it will shift to 3rd
no codes
many threads I have read with no successful
thanks
Last edited by ss2005; 12-11-2014 at 11:34 PM.
#2
Moderator
The correct way to diagnose this is to connect a scanner and monitor whether the PCM is commanding the 1-2 shift. If it is but the trans doesn't shift, you have a trans problem. If it does not command the shift, you may have a sensor problem (VSS, TPS, MAF, MAP).
Even better is to use a scanner that can command gear changes.
Question 1 - Does the trans shift to 4th gear?
Question 2 - Does the trans stay in 1st gear, or does it suddenly "freewheel"?
Even better is to use a scanner that can command gear changes.
Question 1 - Does the trans shift to 4th gear?
Question 2 - Does the trans stay in 1st gear, or does it suddenly "freewheel"?
#3
The correct way to diagnose this is to connect a scanner and monitor whether the PCM is commanding the 1-2 shift. If it is but the trans doesn't shift, you have a trans problem. If it does not command the shift, you may have a sensor problem (VSS, TPS, MAF, MAP).
Even better is to use a scanner that can command gear changes.
Question 1 - Does the trans shift to 4th gear?
Question 2 - Does the trans stay in 1st gear, or does it suddenly "freewheel"?
Even better is to use a scanner that can command gear changes.
Question 1 - Does the trans shift to 4th gear?
Question 2 - Does the trans stay in 1st gear, or does it suddenly "freewheel"?
thanks for replaying
I Expected you to replay because I have seen your name in many threads
1- yes , it does ,,1st 3rd 4th reverse all work fine , what I know that if the 4th gear doesn't work it is 2-4 band
2- I didn't understand 100% because I am not native English speaker but it stays in 1st it goes 2000 - 3000 -4000 - 5000 rpm with part throttle without shifting to 2nd ,,, if I let the gas off when it is above 3500rpm it will shift to 3rd if I let the gas off with 2000rpm it will just like in N gear
I disassembled the transmission nothing wrong with it
so I want sure when I install clutches and band will it work ? or I need to fix something else
thanks
#4
TECH Addict
You did say that the trans is now apart? Since you now have the trans apart there is not much diagnosing that can be done. Make sure that the band is not worn and that the servo pin does not have more than .075"-.125" of travel. A band cost under $30, so I would replace it just to be safe. I have attached instructions form a Sonnax Extra Long Servo Pin kit. These instructions tell you how to check the servo pin travel. I hope this helps.
#5
Moderator
I'm glad that Mr Bond replied as I have been busy. I agree that it sounds like the servo has too much play because the band is worn out. Your problem is very similar to this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...t-trouble.html
And perhaps this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-gear-all.html
In those cases the band was worn, but by lengthening the servo pin, the OP was able to restore 2nd gear and get a bit more life out of the trans.
Since you have the trans apart, just replace the band.
As Mr Bond mentioned, check the servo end play before re-installing the trans.
Here is my method near the end of assembly:
1. Install the band and get it positioned.
2. Install the band anchor pin through the bottom of the case.
3. Install at the separator plate and valve body which hold the anchor pin in place.
4. Check that the end play is in the 1/16" range.
5. Install the servo.
6. Install the pump and finish assembling the trans.
If you install the valve body after the pump you cannot easily check that the band is properly seated on the anchor pin. We recently had a thread where the OP discovered after installing the trans that the band was not properly seated.
For other readers: when the trans is still in the car, you can estimate the servo end play by pressing on the servo cover with a crow bar. The spec is .075" to .125" (which is between 1/16" and 1/8"). Somewhere around .185 (3/16") the band may start slipping by .250" you will first lose 2nd gear and shortly thereafter also lose 4th gear.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...t-trouble.html
And perhaps this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-gear-all.html
In those cases the band was worn, but by lengthening the servo pin, the OP was able to restore 2nd gear and get a bit more life out of the trans.
Since you have the trans apart, just replace the band.
As Mr Bond mentioned, check the servo end play before re-installing the trans.
Here is my method near the end of assembly:
1. Install the band and get it positioned.
2. Install the band anchor pin through the bottom of the case.
3. Install at the separator plate and valve body which hold the anchor pin in place.
4. Check that the end play is in the 1/16" range.
5. Install the servo.
6. Install the pump and finish assembling the trans.
If you install the valve body after the pump you cannot easily check that the band is properly seated on the anchor pin. We recently had a thread where the OP discovered after installing the trans that the band was not properly seated.
For other readers: when the trans is still in the car, you can estimate the servo end play by pressing on the servo cover with a crow bar. The spec is .075" to .125" (which is between 1/16" and 1/8"). Somewhere around .185 (3/16") the band may start slipping by .250" you will first lose 2nd gear and shortly thereafter also lose 4th gear.
#6
I'm glad that Mr Bond replied as I have been busy. I agree that it sounds like the servo has too much play because the band is worn out. Your problem is very similar to this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...t-trouble.html
And perhaps this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-gear-all.html
In those cases the band was worn, but by lengthening the servo pin, the OP was able to restore 2nd gear and get a bit more life out of the trans.
Since you have the trans apart, just replace the band.
As Mr Bond mentioned, check the servo end play before re-installing the trans.
Here is my method near the end of assembly:
1. Install the band and get it positioned.
2. Install the band anchor pin through the bottom of the case.
3. Install at the separator plate and valve body which hold the anchor pin in place.
4. Check that the end play is in the 1/16" range.
5. Install the servo.
6. Install the pump and finish assembling the trans.
If you install the valve body after the pump you cannot easily check that the band is properly seated on the anchor pin. We recently had a thread where the OP discovered after installing the trans that the band was not properly seated.
For other readers: when the trans is still in the car, you can estimate the servo end play by pressing on the servo cover with a crow bar. The spec is .075" to .125" (which is between 1/16" and 1/8"). Somewhere around .185 (3/16") the band may start slipping by .250" you will first lose 2nd gear and shortly thereafter also lose 4th gear.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...t-trouble.html
And perhaps this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-gear-all.html
In those cases the band was worn, but by lengthening the servo pin, the OP was able to restore 2nd gear and get a bit more life out of the trans.
Since you have the trans apart, just replace the band.
As Mr Bond mentioned, check the servo end play before re-installing the trans.
Here is my method near the end of assembly:
1. Install the band and get it positioned.
2. Install the band anchor pin through the bottom of the case.
3. Install at the separator plate and valve body which hold the anchor pin in place.
4. Check that the end play is in the 1/16" range.
5. Install the servo.
6. Install the pump and finish assembling the trans.
If you install the valve body after the pump you cannot easily check that the band is properly seated on the anchor pin. We recently had a thread where the OP discovered after installing the trans that the band was not properly seated.
For other readers: when the trans is still in the car, you can estimate the servo end play by pressing on the servo cover with a crow bar. The spec is .075" to .125" (which is between 1/16" and 1/8"). Somewhere around .185 (3/16") the band may start slipping by .250" you will first lose 2nd gear and shortly thereafter also lose 4th gear.
#7
TECH Addict
Hi, for the end of your message when it starts slipping does that mean the band is worn out? I do not have 2nd or 4th gear. I drove my pickup the same day in the am it shifted as should parked it for 2 hours then got back in then it wouldn稚 even try to shift to 2nd or 4th gear. Servo bad? Sunshell cracked? Thanks
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#9
I know this is an older thread but I知 kinda stuck at the moment and could use some help. I have a 01 GMC Sierra with a 5.3 and 4l60e. The problems started with the pump breaking. I replaced the pump and reinstalled the trans. Now I have no second or fourth gear. I replaced the servo and no change. I知 pretty mechanically inclined but not too familiar with transmissions.
#11
#12
TECH Addict
1st gear Solenoids A is on and B is on
2nd gear Solenoid A is off and B is on
3rd gear Solenoid A is off and B is off
4th gear Solenoid A is on and B is off
As you can see it is a different solenoid combination of on/off for 2nd and 4th gears. So it is unlikely that is your problem.
You can check if the band is on its anchor without removing the trans from the vehicle. All you have to do is remove the valve body, separator palate and gaskets. Then you will be adle to see the band anchor pin. Remove the band anchor pin and check that the hole in the band that hooks onto the anchor pin is lined up in the anchor pin hole. If it is not lined up with the hole you should be able to fish it back into place. Once back into place push in the anchor pin and reassemble.
#13
No, I am pretty sure it's not a solenoid.
1st gear Solenoids A is on and B is on
2nd gear Solenoid A is off and B is on
3rd gear Solenoid A is off and B is off
4th gear Solenoid A is on and B is off
As you can see it is a different solenoid combination of on/off for 2nd and 4th gears. So it is unlikely that is your problem.
You can check if the band is on its anchor without removing the trans from the vehicle. All you have to do is remove the valve body, separator palate and gaskets. Then you will be adle to see the band anchor pin. Remove the band anchor pin and check that the hole in the band that hooks onto the anchor pin is lined up in the anchor pin hole. If it is not lined up with the hole you should be able to fish it back into place. Once back into place push in the anchor pin and reassemble.
1st gear Solenoids A is on and B is on
2nd gear Solenoid A is off and B is on
3rd gear Solenoid A is off and B is off
4th gear Solenoid A is on and B is off
As you can see it is a different solenoid combination of on/off for 2nd and 4th gears. So it is unlikely that is your problem.
You can check if the band is on its anchor without removing the trans from the vehicle. All you have to do is remove the valve body, separator palate and gaskets. Then you will be adle to see the band anchor pin. Remove the band anchor pin and check that the hole in the band that hooks onto the anchor pin is lined up in the anchor pin hole. If it is not lined up with the hole you should be able to fish it back into place. Once back into place push in the anchor pin and reassemble.
Do you happen to have a pic of what I知 looking for? Like I said I知 not familiar with transmissions.
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FranksCustomTrans (03-18-2024)
#14
TECH Addict
You can search on here for some build threats that will have some pics that may help you. There are also a lot of rebuild videos on YouTube that will show you how this goes together.
One thing forgot in my earlier post is that you will need to keep the valve body upright when removing or the check ***** in the valve body will fall out.
One thing forgot in my earlier post is that you will need to keep the valve body upright when removing or the check ***** in the valve body will fall out.
#15
You can search on here for some build threats that will have some pics that may help you. There are also a lot of rebuild videos on YouTube that will show you how this goes together.
One thing forgot in my earlier post is that you will need to keep the valve body upright when removing or the check ***** in the valve body will fall out.
One thing forgot in my earlier post is that you will need to keep the valve body upright when removing or the check ***** in the valve body will fall out.