Gotcha, thanks for the advice man. I'm tucking 345s in the back so I'm no stranger to a great big hammer and a cutoff wheel.

And advice on the ears on the trans I keep hearing about?

 

Cut them off.

 

Yea i cut them off, but thats good you wont be scared to get a little crazy down there. Itll make things so much easier for you haha. I swear if i have to touch any of those plugs in the near future im gonna cut a removable panel in the floor board lol

 

Having alot of trouble right now.... to say the least. After we fixed a vaccum issue which fixed the first problem we went to go for a drive and ran into a bunch of issues. We did a segment swap but the car is not shifting as it should be and is barely moving when into the throttle. Got it back to the house only to be spewing trans fluid which we suspect is from the power steering pump and a faint grinding noise from the trans, or what sounded to be from the trans. I have about had it

 

Did you do segment swap of both the trans segment and the trans diagnostics segment...?

Did you do a full flash (flash entire)...?

Does your wire harness have all the 4L80E pinouts...?

 

Thanks for posting these questions, answer is yes to all of those, also it seems as though the pcm doesnt know what gear the trans is in, when we had the hp tuner screen up it was showing an inaccurate reading on the gear.

 

This may indicate that some of the pinouts are incorrect... you may have to check them using a wiring diagram.

 

Hmm will have to recheck those... i also did not reutilize the manual lever positioning sensor but i dont think since from what i gather that is just to the body control module.

 

The PN switch...?

The BCM uses that for the reverse lamps... but the PCM also uses it to select the PN or IG (in-gear) tables in the engine tune.

 

So that and the pressure sensor in the trans tell it to shift?

 

The PN switch tells the PCM if the lever is in P/N or not (so it can select the PN or IG idle tables).

The pressure switches on the bottom of the VB tell the PCM which gear range is selected (P/N, R, D4, D3, manual 2, manual 1), so it knows how many and what gears to sequence thru.

The PCM uses the VSS and TPS sensors to lookup the shift tables to see what the current gear should be (and to shift into it).

 

I see, so thats why you said to check the pin out. We did follow them as per speartech but who knows.

 

Sorry to hear man. I hope its something quick to find and resolve and hopefully no damage was done.

Sorry for my absence. House hunting/selling was rough. Closed this week though finally TA's gettin a garage upgrade out of this all lol 1 car to a huge 2 car. I'll be moving in Friday so hopefully soon thereafter I'll be able to start working on my own swap. Its been a long time coming and the parts have been sitting around long enough.

 

I hope the noise was just from the power steering pump which somehow shot trans fluid all over my car. Im gonna check it out later.
Nice man thats badass you upgraded the garage space. Thats probably gonna be really nice!

 

So joecar what do you suggest i do? Ill check the pinouts a little later.

 

Check the pinouts in the harness, that they are correct, and for end-to-end continuity).

Add the PN switch (and anything else that is missing, like the TCC brake switch).

Check that the correct signals are seen at the trans harness connector (need a bidir scantool).

 

Alright. That sounds good ill work on that, it will be a little bit before i have any results to report back, but thanks for the help

 

Finally starting on my swap. Not much progress so far, still trying to figure out getting the car high enough. The ramps i have aren't going to cut it. I have some beefy and tall jacks that I'm planning on using but I need a way to get the car up on them without spending a fortune. I'll be logging my steps I take so I can get your guys input on if I'm missing a step or doing something wrong. I'll mark the steps I've hammered out.

Just started today and barely had any time before having to attend to other things. These are the steps I've written down so I can keep on track. I still need to insert things in the correct location like installing the shifter (going from T56 to 4l80e) and cable, installing my Compushift2 controller, and anything else I'm sure I'm forgetting.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal

Remove the center console (Those of you that have troubles doing this might appreciate this tip: you may notice that the center console doesnt lift up out of the way because the E-Brake handle needs to be pulled up to get the console to clear it but then the console wont lift up over it because the handle is too high. To get around this, push your drivers seat to its rearmost position, then recline the passenger seat fully. Once those are done you can lift the center console up as high as you can and then rotate the console counter clockwise (think helicopter spinning the console, not rolling the console) 90 degrees. once the console is pointed towards the doors after rotating 90 degrees you will have enough room to lift the console up over the E-Brake handle)

Remove the shift lever handle

Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands

Move drainpan, rags, news papers, and wrenches under the transmission

Remove transmission drain plug at the bottom of the case and allow the lubricant to drain into the pan.

After the lubricant has drained completely, reinstall the plug and tighten it securely

Place the transmission in neutral with the parking brake off

Make reference marks on the driveshaft and the pinion flange in line with each other. This is to make sure the driveshaft is reinstalled in the same position to preserve the balance

Remove the rear universal joint bolts and clamps. Turn the driveshaft (or wheels) as necessary to bring the bolts into the most accessible position

Tape the bearing caps to the spider to prevent the caps from coming off during removal

Lower the rear of the driveshaft. Slide the front of the driveshaft out of the transmission

Wrap a plastic bag over the transmission extension housing and secure it in place with a rubber band. This will prevent loss of fluid and protect against contamination while the driveshaft is out

Support the rear axle with a jackstand

Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the forward end of the torque arm to the transmission extension housing. Note how the two brackets (inner and outer) on the left side of the extension housing and the catalytic converter hanger/torque arm bracket on the right side of the extension housing are oriented to ensure proper reassembly

Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the rear end of the torque arm to the rear axle

Remove the catalytic converter hanger assembly

Unplug the electrical connectors from the back-up light switch and the speed sensor. Remove the electrical connectors first then unscrew the sensors

The reverse lockout solenoid is located on the left side of the transmission extension housing. Unplug the electrical connector from the reverse lockout solenoid. Remove the reverse lockout housing hold-down screw and remove the reverse lockout assembly

The skip shift solenoid is located on the left side of the transmission. Unplug the electrical connector. Unscrew the skip shift solenoid

Remove the starter motor and any bell housing covers. From under the vehicle, disconnect the solenoid wire and battery cable from the terminals on the solenoid.

Remove the shield over the starter motor by unsnapping the clips and then removing the starter mounting bolts.

Remove the starter motor. Note location of the spacer shim(s) if equipped

Detach the clutch hydraulic line at the bellhousing

Support the engine assembly with a floor jack (place a block of wood on the jack head to protect the engine oil pan). Support the transmission with a transmission jack

Remove the transmission crossmember and mount.

Remove the bolts securing the bellhousing to engine. Pull the transmission and the bell housing to the rear and separate it from the engine. Lower the transmission on the jack and wheel it out from under the vehicle

Remove all old sealant from the extension housing

Spread transmission fluid on the torque converter rear hub, where the transmission front seal rides.

With the front of the transmission facing up, rotate the converter back and forth. It should drop down into the transmission front pump in stages.

To ensure that the converter is fully engaged, lay a straight edge along the transmission to engine mating surface and make sure the converter hub is at least 1 1/8 inch below the straight edge. Reinstall vice grips to hold the converter in this position. Lubricate the front hub of the converter with multipurpose grease

With the transmission secured to the transmission jack, wheel it into position, raise it up to position and connect the oil cooler lines

Turn the torque converter to line up with the holes in the driveplate

Carefully move the transmission forward until the dowel pins and the torque converter are engaged. Make sure the transmission mates with the engine with no gap. If there is a gap, make sure there are no wires or other objects pinched between the engine and transmission and also make sure the torque converter is completely engaged in the transmission front pump. Try to rotate the converter - if it doesn't rotate easily, it probably isn't fully engaged in the pump. If necessary, lower the transmission and install the converter fully.

Connect the cooler lines and tighten them securely.

Install the transmission to engine bolts and tighten them to 35 ft-lbs. As you're tightening the bolts, verify that the engine and transmission mate completely at all points. If not, find out why. Never try to force the engine and transmission together with the bolts or you'll break the transmission case.

Raise the transmission and install the transmission mount and cross member. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.

Install the torque converter to driveplate bolts. Tighten them to 46 ft-lbs.

Remove the jacks supporting the engine and transmission

Install the dipstick tube

Reconnect all electrical connectors

Reconnect the catalytic converter hanger

Reattach the torque arm. To install the torque arm raise it into position and install the nuts and bolts. Do not tighten anything until all fasteners at both ends have been completely installed, gradually tighten them until they're all snug, then tighten everything to the torque specifications :

At transmission - nuts 30 ft-lbs, long bolts 37 ft-lbs, short bolts 20 ft-lbs

At rear axle - bolts 96 ft-lbs, nuts 97 ft-lbs.

Remove the jack supporting the rear axle

Install the driveshaft. Remove the plastic bag at the end of the transmission and wipe the area clean. Inspect the oil seal carefully.

Slide the splined front end of the driveshaft into the transmission.

Raise the rear of the driveshaft into position, checking to be sure the marks are in alignment. If not, turn the rear wheels to match the pinion flange and the driveshaft.

Remove the tape securing the bearing caps and install the clamps and bolts. Tighten to 14 ft-lbs

Check and refill the transmission with transmission fluid. Add approximately 7 pints of ATF through the filler tube.

With the transmission in park and the parking brake set, run the engine at a fast idle but don't race it.

Move the gear selector through each range and back to park. Check the fluid level. It will probably be low. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to the COLD FULL range on the dipstick.

Remove the Jack stands and lower the vehicle

Check under the vehicle for leaks during the first few trips.

 

To access the top bell housing bolts you may have to allow trans/engine to tilt down at rear... to do this you should remove the MAF/TB bellows/duct.

 

Before installing torque converter put something like 1/2 to 1 pint ATF inside it first.