Hey guys. I'm going to be using the thread as an ongoing thread for my T56 to 4L80E swap. I've modified this original post to include the steps for the swap with as much detail as i can gather. I'll update it for mistakes/additions as i go along and I'll flag the steps i've hammered out thus far.


Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal

Remove the center console (Those of you that have troubles doing this might appreciate this tip: you may notice that the center console doesnt lift up out of the way because the E-Brake handle needs to be pulled up to get the console to clear it but then the console wont lift up over it because the handle is too high. To get around this, push your drivers seat to its rearmost position, then recline the passenger seat fully. Once those are done you can lift the center console up as high as you can and then rotate the console counter clockwise (think helicopter spinning the console, not rolling the console) 90 degrees. once the console is pointed towards the doors after rotating 90 degrees you will have enough room to lift the console up over the E-Brake handle)

Remove the shift lever handle

Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands

Move drainpan, rags, news papers, and wrenches under the transmission

Remove transmission drain plug at the bottom of the case and allow the lubricant to drain into the pan.

After the lubricant has drained completely, reinstall the plug and tighten it securely

Place the transmission in neutral with the parking brake off

Make reference marks on the driveshaft and the pinion flange in line with each other. This is to make sure the driveshaft is reinstalled in the same position to preserve the balance

Remove the rear universal joint bolts and clamps. Turn the driveshaft (or wheels) as necessary to bring the bolts into the most accessible position

Tape the bearing caps to the spider to prevent the caps from coming off during removal

Lower the rear of the driveshaft. Slide the front of the driveshaft out of the transmission

Wrap a plastic bag over the transmission extension housing and secure it in place with a rubber band. This will prevent loss of fluid and protect against contamination while the driveshaft is out

Support the rear axle with a jackstand

Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the forward end of the torque arm to the transmission extension housing. Note how the two brackets (inner and outer) on the left side of the extension housing and the catalytic converter hanger/torque arm bracket on the right side of the extension housing are oriented to ensure proper reassembly

Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the rear end of the torque arm to the rear axle

Remove the catalytic converter hanger assembly

Unplug the electrical connectors from the back-up light switch and the speed sensor. Remove the electrical connectors first then unscrew the sensors

The reverse lockout solenoid is located on the left side of the transmission extension housing. Unplug the electrical connector from the reverse lockout solenoid. Remove the reverse lockout housing hold-down screw and remove the reverse lockout assembly

The skip shift solenoid is located on the left side of the transmission. Unplug the electrical connector. Unscrew the skip shift solenoid

Remove the starter motor and any bell housing covers. From under the vehicle, disconnect the solenoid wire and battery cable from the terminals on the solenoid.

Remove the shield over the starter motor by unsnapping the clips and then removing the starter mounting bolts.

Remove the starter motor. Note location of the spacer shim(s) if equipped

Detach the clutch hydraulic line at the bellhousing

Support the engine assembly with a floor jack (place a block of wood on the jack head to protect the engine oil pan). Support the transmission with a transmission jack

Remove the transmission crossmember and mount.

Remove the bolts securing the bellhousing to engine. Pull the transmission and the bell housing to the rear and separate it from the engine. Lower the transmission on the jack and wheel it out from under the vehicle

Remove all old sealant from the extension housing

Remove the flywheel

Install flexplate to the crankshaft. Ensure the locating pin (if present) aligns onto the locating hole in the flexplate. If the pin is not present, you can use a drill bit that fits to align the flexplate to the crankshaft. Using a star pattern for tightening the bolts, torque the bolts down to 61 ft-lbs.

Spread transmission fluid on the torque converter rear hub, where the transmission front seal rides.

With the front of the transmission facing up, rotate the converter back and forth. It should drop down into the transmission front pump in stages.

To ensure that the converter is fully engaged, lay a straight edge along the transmission to engine mating surface and make sure the converter hub is at least 1 1/8 inch below the straight edge. Reinstall vice grips to hold the converter in this position. Lubricate the front hub of the converter with multipurpose grease

With the transmission secured to the transmission jack, wheel it into position, raise it up to position and connect the oil cooler lines

Turn the torque converter to line up with the holes in the driveplate

Carefully move the transmission forward until the dowel pins and the torque converter are engaged. Make sure the transmission mates with the engine with no gap. If there is a gap, make sure there are no wires or other objects pinched between the engine and transmission and also make sure the torque converter is completely engaged in the transmission front pump. Try to rotate the converter - if it doesn't rotate easily, it probably isn't fully engaged in the pump. If necessary, lower the transmission and install the converter fully.

Connect the cooler lines and tighten them securely.

Install the transmission to engine bolts and tighten them to 35 ft-lbs. As you're tightening the bolts, verify that the engine and transmission mate completely at all points. If not, find out why. Never try to force the engine and transmission together with the bolts or you'll break the transmission case.

Raise the transmission and install the transmission mount and cross member. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.

Install the torque converter to driveplate bolts. Tighten them to 46 ft-lbs.

Remove the jacks supporting the engine and transmission

Install the dipstick tube

Reconnect all electrical connectors

Reconnect the catalytic converter hanger

Reattach the torque arm. To install the torque arm raise it into position and install the nuts and bolts. Do not tighten anything until all fasteners at both ends have been completely installed, gradually tighten them until they're all snug, then tighten everything to the torque specifications :

At transmission - nuts 30 ft-lbs, long bolts 37 ft-lbs, short bolts 20 ft-lbs

At rear axle - bolts 96 ft-lbs, nuts 97 ft-lbs.

Remove the jack supporting the rear axle

Install the driveshaft. Remove the plastic bag at the end of the transmission and wipe the area clean. Inspect the oil seal carefully.

Slide the splined front end of the driveshaft into the transmission.

Raise the rear of the driveshaft into position, checking to be sure the marks are in alignment. If not, turn the rear wheels to match the pinion flange and the driveshaft.

Remove the tape securing the bearing caps and install the clamps and bolts. Tighten to 14 ft-lbs

Check and refill the transmission with transmission fluid. Add approximately 7 pints of ATF through the filler tube.

With the transmission in park and the parking brake set, run the engine at a fast idle but don't race it.

Move the gear selector through each range and back to park. Check the fluid level. It will probably be low. Add enough fluid to bring the level up to the COLD FULL range on the dipstick.

Remove the Jack stands and lower the vehicle

Check under the vehicle for leaks during the first few trips.

 

It looks like you are on the right track.

 

Just did this swap, still have to have drive shaft shortened. Used the bmr trans crossmember without a torque arm mount bc my torque arm is shorter and mounts to the driveshaft loop. Also chose to run the stock shifter for cleanliness and factory look. Went with an fti triple disc lockup, but I'm sure the Jake's unit is good and since you're getting the trans from them it seems logical to use them for the converter as well.

 

i just buttoned up my t56 to 4l80 swap on my turbo car a couple weeks ago. my responses are in red below

 

Thanks for the replies guys. How is 3600-3800 stall on the street? How about the strip?

With the 70266 cooler, how are your temps on the hot days out during street/track driving?

Anyone with Jakes D3 transbrake experience? I've been trying to research it and if I'm reading things right, Jakes D3 can be wired to the brake lights for activation in reverse. Is this the case? Does that essentially mean it will drive on the street like a normal auto without having to do anything to get it into any forward/reverse gear, neutral or park? I got a little worried reading about other D3 brakes having to leave the car in neutral and holding the transbrake while staying in neutral to make the car go move in reverse. I'm hoping thats not the case with Jakes D3. Anyone know? I'll be asking Jake but I can respect that he's a busy man and might not be able to answer right away so if anyone knows, please speak up.

How do you like the pro ratchet? I really like the looks of it but the TCI Outlaw was topping it out because of being able to get the plates with the button on the side for the transbrake. I did however come across something that peaks my interest and might tip the scales in the B&M Pro Ratchets favor. I read of some people coming from manual going to auto and using the clutch pedal as the activator for their transbrake. I never thought of this but it sounds genius. One it cuts costs in switching to an auto pedal set. Two it cuts down time in doing said swap. Three it keeps things a bit cleaner looking in the cabin (no bright red button). How is driving a ratchet setup on the street? I've never driven one before. Does the ratcheting get annoying during everyday use?

Thanks for the tips with the drive shaft seems sensible and really was what I was going to do. Fingers crossed its just the right size from the get go. Thanks for the recommendation on the flex plate also. I'll have to do more research on Meziere. I think I'll be doing the MWC crossmember as well. Seeing as how I want to get their rear end and torque arm I might as well use them for other parts.

 

Got my Jakes 4l80e delivered and looking at the rest of the parts list. Did you guys who did the swap use b&m 75498 (cable bracket/arm)? Think im going to be looking for a hurst quarter stick or pistol grip. What pn for those shifters should i be looking at since they dont specifically say which works on the 4l80e, the one for the th400?

 

Saving this thread for when i do the swap. JAKE'S recommended a stg 2 for my car.

 

Seems like I cant win in my hunt for a shifter I'll like. I keep coming across posts over the net that say Hurst doesnt make a shifter that'll work w/ the 4 speed tranny's.

In light of that, I keep going back and forth between the pro ratchet/stealth pro ratchet and the TCI outlaw. My question now though is this, with myself wanting to go with an electronically controlled setup, I realize that a ratchet shifter isn't necessarily popular since it seems more geared towards those with full manual valve bodies. Will a ratchet shifter and an electronically controlled transmission combo pose a problem? For electronically controlled transmissions how does the computer work in conjunction with the gear selected by the shifter? In D does the computer just do all the shifting then if you put it in 1/2/3 it shifts according to that?

Thanks in advance for any info on this. Still trying to figure things out before dropping the coin on a shifter. Doesnt look like a whole lot of shifters are available that I'd actually like aside from the 2 that I mentioned.

 

Just got done with the swap like literally an hour ago. Only thing I can say is to plug the spear tech harness you will need to cut a layer of metal out on the trans tunnel. It looks like shut but it needs to be done.

 

When we did the swap in my car I used the original 4L80E plug and pinned it into the M6 harness/PCM. Couldn't justify spending the money on a pre-made harness when I had the plug needed already. I then did the segment swap from HPTuners and all was well.

I used a stock shifter for simplicity and it worked well. If you go aftermarket the trans will still shift normal when in D and react the same in other gears as well. I know Slow94Formula has a TCI outlaw shifter on his and he likes it. They sell separate gates for 4 speed transmissions.

http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/618014...3eyBoCMKjw_wcB

The TCI flexplate is a nice piece. My buddy had one in his 950+ rwhp Camaro. I used the cheap Hughes SFI plate and it worked well in my car, however I would recommend something more beefy in your case.

I used the BMR crossmember because I had a full lenght torque arm to mount to it. If you have a short TA I would go MWC as it is a lot lighter and cheaper.

Get an aftermarket driveshaft. You will have to measure for the length which is easy. I ordered one from PST for right around $300.

 

Thanks for the reply. I think im going to go with the bmr xmember since i want to keep a long arm on it.

I have another question for you guys on this type of swap. For anyone thats gone with an aftermarket controller are they suitable for a high hp setup? I wouldnt think there would be amy issues really but i would rather ask to help make my decision. Id like to do the segment swap for cost but some of the aftermarket systems like compushift 2 or the ez tcu seem like a nice way to go that wouldnt require back and forth tuning at a shop and allows for some neat features like paddle shifters if i ever get the bug to add that . Some of the posts and reviews makes me lean towards the compushift but im getting the feeling that the general consensus is to do the segment swap. I also like how the compushift 2 allows you to toggle between 2 different transmission tunes essentially. Is there any pros or cons between a seg swap and the compushift 2 in a 1khp car? (Not there uet but thats the goal)

I think ive decided on a shifter finally. Im thinking im going to do a stealth pro ratchet setup. It has the reverse lockout and reverse light provisions and costs a bit less than the outlaw. Ive got an idea in mind for the trans brake switch since this shifter is buttonless that im toying with. We'll see.

 

What did u guys do for tranny lines and do any of u have pics of the tranny in the car?

 

Im still collecting parts

 

Anyone on here have pics of there tranny lines?

 

I have no experience with the bmr one as far as weight, my MWC is light but it's about $20 more. 180vs200. But Im a little biased to MWC tho. Love their products.

 

For the trans lines I just ran braided line up to a BM supercooler up front.
Also for the shifter I used a B&M pro rachet and modified the auto console top to fit the shifter.

 

I got the bm pro ratchet for my m6 to 80e swap. I'm haven issues with getting the cable through the trans tunnel cause the brace seems to be in the way. How have Yal routed the cable and drilled the hole?

 

So the stealth pro ratchet will work with a 4l80e? I have talked to 3 different b&m reps and all 3 said the pro ratchet would not work with the 80e. On the website it states it'll work with a 4l60e. My argument was if it'll work for the 60e, why wouldn't it work with the 80e?

Enlighten me.

 

cut the brace



pro ratchet works fine

 

Just went through this brace issue. Had to cut it liKe above