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Before starting you could probably put 8-10 qaurts...
you should check cooler circuit flow and flush the cooler (even if it is new) by removing the return line from the cooler, and route cooler output to a bucket, and start engine, you should get about 2 quarts in 30 seconds (and now stop engine)... if this is ok then reconnect cooler return line and continue... this would be done on the first engine start.
With cooler, trans and converter probably takes 12-14 quarts.
What are you doing about PCM trans segment for controlling the 4L80E...?
You need the trans segment and trans diag segment from a tune file that has OS id matching your OS... you should actually swap to an AT file, preferably having OS id 12212156 as there are various 12212156 4L80E truck files that you can copy trans segments from...
( since you mentioned "torque arm" somewhere above, I'm assuming you have a 4.2 gen F-car with a 0411 PCM )
Ty ty ty! I'll add those to my steps. You're right on the torque arm. I'll be reattaching that to the cross member I picked up. I'll reword that. Good call on the dipstick part too. In my head I was planning on routing it while the trans is out and then just installing it to the trance once its slid into place but I didn't get that worded in right.
A segment swap I should be good without. I'll be using an aftermarket controller. Compushift II. It has its own harness so once I get all of the steps for installing it sorted out I'll be incorporating them into my list accordingly.
Hi Are You interested In trading my auto ls1 harnesd for your t56 Harness
Originally Posted by joecar
The PN switch tells the PCM if the lever is in P/N or not (so it can select the PN or IG idle tables).
The pressure switches on the bottom of the VB tell the PCM which gear range is selected (P/N, R, D4, D3, manual 2, manual 1), so it knows how many and what gears to sequence thru.
The PCM uses the VSS and TPS sensors to lookup the shift tables to see what the current gear should be (and to shift into it).
Sorry for being so dormant on this. So much going on outside of this project. I made some great progress the last couple weekends and today in particular. Got the T56 out. I had to take the tranny off of the bellhousing first and then remove the bellhousing after the tranny was out of the way. Kudo's to all of you who can get that out without separating the bellhousing but no amount of curse words was helping me in doing so. Now to get the turbo stuff off while things are out of the way.
good read in starting my 4l80e swap soon as I am done rebuilding the trans to jake stage 3 spec. still sourcing parts now. still unsure on what flywhee an tq converter combo to go with for my setup
Nice car in your sig, looks very close to mine except you've got nicer wheels
Made more progress this weekend. Got the clutch and flywheel off. Also started taking off some of the APS turbo setup. I've got the downpipes and wastegate assemblies off of the hot side of the turbos. Looking at it now, I feel that I should have removed the turbo stuff prior to the removal of the transmission as it looks like in order to get the exhaust manifolds and turbos themselves off I will have to drop my kmember. Since the kmember and a jack w/ a piece of wood are the only thing supporting the engine right now, I'm thinking there is no way for me to get the turbo stuff off untill i reinstall the new tranny setup so that it will be supported by the tranny crossmember and the jack/wood so that removing the kmember will not make things too unstable/dangerous. Let me know if you guys know of a way that I can drop the kmember safely while the transmission is off. I'm guessing there is no real good way to do that so if i dont hear anything on that aspect I'll be working towards installing the trans as my next steps.
I modified the first post in this thread to contain my list of steps to remove the T56 and install the 4l80e. I added in a missing step that I'm at currently, obviously it would be good to install the flexplate before getting the tranny set to raise into place lol. Looks like those have to be torqued down to 61 ft-lbs. I'll have to double check on the bolts. I know when I bought my mezier flex plate I also got a set of ARP bolts. I wasnt sure if those were supposed to be bolts that hold the flexplate to the crank, or the flexplate to the converter. If you guys know those bolt specs please let me know so i can throw them in the steps.
Just got my Mezier flexplate mounted with the ARP bolts that was supplied when I bought the plate. Per my Haynes manual, they recommended the flexplate bolts be tightened to 61ftlbs which i've done. First time using a torque wrench but its a click drive and it clicked when it got to the dialed in torque. Its pretty fool proof on dialing in but 61ftlbs feels lighter than I thought it would have required. The torque wrench is pretty long though so i'm sure i had more leverage than I'm used to and that probably skewed my thoughts on how tight it actually is.
I just emailed jake (the builder for my tranny) what he recommends for ATF as it looks like the next steps will require it. What do you guys recommend for a high hp build? (stage 5 4l80e from Jake).
I "think" it's dex 3 or 6.
I would go with whatever HE tells you tho.
I used 6.
Also, drop pan and check dipstick for correct level.
I used an aftermaket on and scribed a new line above pan rail.
Looks like Dex3 it is. He said it should be documented in the papers that came with the trans. I'll admit I forgot those were still bundled w/ the tranny. Its still wrapped in plastic w/ the documentation in the bellhousing. I'll have to break those out soon and modify my steps accordingly.
As far as dropping the pan and scribing a line above the pan rail. Is there a good pic of this? I'm thinking its something that'll be pretty obvious once im at that point but "seeing" it ahead of time is always welcome. I'll be using a stock 4l80e dipstick. I'm having troubles remembering what its originally built for but hopefully it'll fit with minimal fuss.
Its a few steps ahead of where i'm at now but one thing that I was kind of wondering when I was installing the flexplate today, how do you install the bolts that mate the flexplate to the torque converter? From what I was seeing, there was a lot in the way on that side of the flexplate and not a whole lot of room for a ratchet
Looks like Dex3 it is. He said it should be documented in the papers that came with the trans. I'll admit I forgot those were still bundled w/ the tranny. Its still wrapped in plastic w/ the documentation in the bellhousing. I'll have to break those out soon and modify my steps accordingly.
As far as dropping the pan and scribing a line above the pan rail. Is there a good pic of this? I'm thinking its something that'll be pretty obvious once im at that point but "seeing" it ahead of time is always welcome. I'll be using a stock 4l80e dipstick. I'm having troubles remembering what its originally built for but hopefully it'll fit with minimal fuss.
I'm sure Jake has that in his instructions too. He "may" have done it for you already if he sold you the dipstick/tube and I think he dyno's the trans's so I would "think" it's done.
Like I said, mine was an Allstar dipstick and tube so I didn't want to take the chance of running low so I dropped the pan which was easy as I have a lift in my garage and was a 1/4" higher then the mark on the stick.
You have a stock one tho so it's probably a lot closer.
Better safe then sorry.
My Nova has a stink bug stance so I go as far as leveling my car by driving the front wheels up onto 2"x4"'s to check the level.
I have the compushift 1 and it works great.
I even called Mike to do a safe tune for break in.
Then a month later he taught me how to fine tune the shift points!
20+min phone call.
Talk about customer support!
Especially on a 13yr old used TCM.
Thats awesome to hear I'll be setting mine up with a Compushift 2 (which I already have). I've read the documentation for that and it seems like its pretty easy to work with. Hopefully thats the case.
I'll breakout the documentation from Jake tomorrow after work and give it a read. If the documentation doesnt specify a brand of ATF for dexron 3 what do you guys recommend? Thanks for the tips about the dip stick.
I think my next steps which I dont have documented in my swap steps are to fab up the t56 shift hole cover and get an idea on how to mount my shifter to it.
I decided to go ahead and do the d3 transbrake also. waiting for everything to come in to start. the wiring looks really easy and so does the install. btw I found a great solution for trans cooler line fittings for clearence. there pricey and im sure you could source it alot cheeper. but this should make things alot easier
I am a stickler for making things clean and easy. I pulled my motor so i can do all wiring and put it all together outside of the car. I plan to document as much as I can for others to follow
I have the same fittings packed away in the garage (moved in a few months ago so a lot of stuffs still boxed up). I was actually wondering how much tubing I'll need for the tranny cooler.
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