dans91

iTrader: (5)

So I have been building my 6.0 for quite some time (being medically retired from the military and having to go to school and complete a degree) while the camaro has been down due to hydrolocking the 5.7. I finally graduated and can finally afford to get things going now woot woot. I have serarched but haven't recieved a definititve post to help me out with this.

So I am picking up a 4L80e because my 60 isn't going to cut it.

So my question is this:
What do I need to make this trans high HP saavy?
What hard parts need to be replaced?
What clutches are you all running for high HP applications?

Anything else that you can help me out with would be pretty awesome. I can tackle motors and what not, but transmissions aren't my strong point and a lot of things have changed in the years that my face was implanted into medical books. LOL.

Thanks ahead of time everyone!!

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

I would have jakes performance build you a trans, and enjoy!

dans91

iTrader: (5)

I guess I should have stated that I am on a budget. I already have to pay for all the swap stuff and paying 3200 for a transmission just seems rediculous when I have the shop and tools to do everything on my own Thanks for the very usefull feedback though HAHA Plus I enjoy mechanics! Why let that go to waste, right? lol

So far I have picked up on doing some things like:

1. 300M imput shaft
2. Kevlar related clutches (need to know what you high HP guys are running)
3. HD2 shift improvment/reprogramming kit
4. Fwd clutch hub improvment
5. Planetary gear set? (This one I am unsure of due to not reading too much on these here at ls1tech) It seems like it might be overkill but what is the census here.

I read somewhere that there is a hole to be drilled within the pump to improve oil flow but is this really beneficial and is this ok for a street driven vehicle?

I'm trying to NOT break the bank brotha, that why I posted

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

If you have the means to do it properly, more power to you..

Didn't know you had a shop, wish I did

dans91

iTrader: (5)

It took 4.5 years of schooling to finally get a place to do things in. I swear, most of my paychecks go to tools and equiptment. Oh well though..... It just means that I'll make more friends BAHAHAHAHA.

So is that who built your 80e? What upgraded parts did you go with?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Yes, stage 2 trans

The Street/Strip (Stage 2) 4L80E includes all new friction materials, steels, bands, rollerized forward hub, rollerized output shaft thrust, heavy duty intermediate snap ring, 6 clutch direct pack, Hi-Energy carbon clutches in select locations, hydraulic modifications for much increased power capacity and firmer shifting. All 4L80Es also include a new boost valve assembly, new shift solenoids, manifold pressure switch, internal wiring, as applicable.The Street/Strip (Stage 2) 4L80E includes all new The Street/Strip (Stage 2) 4L80E
friction materials, steels, bands, rollerized forward hub, rollerized output shaft thrust, heavy duty intermediate snap ring, 6 clutch direct pack, Hi-Energy carbon clutches in select locations, hydraulic modifications for much increased power capacity and firmer shifting. All 4L80Es also include a new boost valve assembly, new shift solenoids, manifold pressure switch, internal wiring, as applicable.

dans91

iTrader: (5)

Just did some HW on Jakes and will be using them when I go to order all my parts (minus the hardened input shaft). The customer service seems to be something of the past and they seem very genuine. I am pretty impressed with this company. Thankfully, they carry all the parts I want/need, so this is a good thing. Now I just wait, wait for the transmission. HAHA. Hopefully I will pick it up next weekend. So Jakes, expect a call from me soon.

Good call out Burken!

pancherj

My advice (I just went through this)...pay the extra to have a professional do it! I had previously done a few TH350's and TH400's (and one C6...man was that sucker heavy!). I added up the cost of buying a kit and compared with what shops were charging. I figured I would save around $1500 doing it myself, so I went for it. My REAL savings were closer to $500. I had to buy some specialty tools that I didn't have (front pump puller, seal installation tools and bushing installation tools) and some other odds and ends. In the end, I saved a few bucks, spent weeks building the trans instead of working on the swap and I have a $3000 trans built by a shade tree mechanic. If it blows up three miles into the test drive, there is no warranty!!

coryforsenate

iTrader: (1)

Edit: at least on a 4l60e, I don't know if the same jury rigged tools will work on a 4l80e other than using sockets to install bushings

I know it's too late for you since you've already purchased the specialty tools but...

-A big flathead screwdriver with teflon tap wrapped around the end can easily pull the pump.

-Hose clamps, a long thin funnel, and a a square of plastic from a 2 liter soda bottle can resize the teflon seals.

-All of the bushings can be installed with the corresponding sized socket and an extension.

I did this myself and my transmission is still going strong hundreds of miles later. The pump puller ($100), both seal installers ($250 together), and a bushing installer kit with all the proper sizes ($100+) for the transmission bushings cost hundreds of dollars but if you watch a video of a professional using the jury rigged tools, you should fell confident in being able to do it yourself.

I would consider paying a shop to install the bushings that come with the kits, personally, which isn't much. I found bushing removal installation to be a pain and wound up having a shop do half of them when I took my case in for cleaning (let a shop put your case in a parts washer, it's a pain to scrub it by hand).

MPTrans.

A good list of quality parts, Hydraulic modifications, and attention to detail is what is needed to build at that HP range. The Transgo kit will not get you there but, trial and error is the name of the game when you start building performance transmissions. Get with one of the sponsors here, order parts thru them and, be patient. What year core are you starting of with?

thewrx

iTrader: (1)

billet drum/sprag i think,

but honestly if your on a budget just rebuild with good clutch pack and deep pan and call it a day. They will hold high tq pretty good stock.

dans91

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the help guys! Ya I have done some transmission work and feel confident enough to do the build, I just wanted to make sure I was getting the right parts. Patience..... damn that is the truth, isn't it?!? Transmissions are a different beast for sure but in the long run, it will be fun. Mechanics is a hobby for me. It's my toys in my toy box. I don't want to pay someone else to do it for me.

As for the core year, I dont know as of yet. It will be somwhere between a 98-04 or higher. I am waiting on a buddy to get one to come in (looking for a core trans). I agree with taking it in to be cleaned and the bushings installed. That will save a lot of headaches.

I will definitely be getting the sprags, good call. Thats the reason why I am rebuilding my 4l60e right now. Sprags in those things are so finiky compared to the 80e! I can't believe I was actually gonna stick with the 60e! After doing some research on the 80e, I am excited to finally stop building the 60e!

Thanks again guys, and it looks like I will be going through Jakes! That is a stellar shop for sure!

mrvedit

Unfortunately Jake is no longer a sponsor here and seems to be taking a sabbatical from all forums for an unknown period of time.
Hence, many of the 4L80E questions he used to answer here are going unanswered.
After 10,000+ posts on various forums he just wants to concentrate on his business of building high end transmissions.
Its easy to find his website and contact info.

dans91

iTrader: (5)

We all need that from time to time and sometimes things can get a LITTTTTTLE busy. In contact with the shop and much props so far, that's for sure!

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

There's a fair bit of misinformation in here, not that it was intentional on anyone's part I'm sure.

A 1,000hp build is no joke. When you call Jake, he is pretty much going to tell you the same. At that kind of level, there are some safety concerns that arise, along with proper building techniques. It has to be done right.

A 1,000hp capable 4L80E is not going to be a budget build either, to do it right. You need a minimum of a billet input shaft and a forward hub. More than likely, a 36 element drum. The drums themselves are not billet, as was mentioned earlier, nor are the sprags. It's simply a stock drum with the stock race machined off and a new, modified one pressed in place to accept the larger sprag.

Never heard of Kevlar clutches, just bands, and even then I don't recommend them. Late model 80E OEM Borg Warner Hi Energy clutches will be more than enough.

I would not use a TransGo for a build like this, I encourage you to do some independent research and make your own calibrations. A lot of the parts in the shift kit will become useless, especially if you're buying a kit from Jake's. A TransGo HD-2 puts a bandaid where stitches are needed. One of its "highlights", and why it is so widely praised is its incorporated 3rd gear clutch dual feeding feature. You will have much better results doing this modification internally in the transmission rather than doing it through swiss cheesing your valve body and using a 3-layered separator plate that is highly prone to leaking oil into the wrong circuits.

Clutches are one of the smallest concerns in building a high horsepower capable transmission, so many people put way too much focus into that. Hydraulic modifications and proper lube feed are going to make or break the build. If you want to do this yourself, pay very close attention!

dans91

iTrader: (5)

Very good info snipez. That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for your help.

So do you have a place to direct me, as far as research goes? As stated above, I have time and the space to work in and would love to become more than the regular builder. I meant to say bands btw, good call out.

I completely agree with proper lubrication and hydraulics. So if you have a direction to send me to look into this a little more, that would be greatly appreciated! I read somewhere that Jakes doesn't provide a shift kit but rather a manual on how to make modifications to the valve body to alleviate this. Are these the modifications that you speak of? I do want to do this right, so your help is appreciated! Thank you.

dans91

iTrader: (5)

Found a write up on doing the dual feed method. Is this one of the things that you were speaking about? It basically uses the springs off of the hd2 kit. You leave the gasket off of the cener support, cap/plug a hole in the VB, and remove a gasket from the direct drum. Use of the Sonnax self-regulating boost valve is better than adding that portion of the hd2 kit as well.

So would I basically do steps 1-3 with the HD2 kit and just forget about doing steps 4 and 5? Talk about information overload eh? LOL

MPTrans.

Overloading your self with internet information can sometimes wreak havoc on a build for a novice. Get your core first, tear it down, and then start your research. Get a good guide book to help.

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

Link me to the info you found. I don't have the TransGo instructions memorized, so I wouldn't know anything about steps 4 and 5 just from that.

Those are seals, not gaskets btw. No springs involved, not sure what you are referring to there. Instead of taking apart your return spring cage, it would be easier to just drill a ~.045" bleed hole in the direct drum to prevent centrifugal apply at high RPMs. Plenty of information on that floating around, even on this board.

Yes use the Sonnax boost valve over the TransGo preferably, though the TransGo part isn't terrible.

Valve body you can modify your stock plate. Drill out 2nd, 3rd and 4th to whatever size you think would work best, different applications and preferences dictate different sizes. Block the accumulators, you can block them with the stock housing or ask Jake to sell you an accumulator blockoff plate. He also has custom separator plates that will act as a shift kit, though that's going to be a bit of an added expense. However, buying the sep. plate an blockoff plate together is going to take out a lot of the hassle on your end.

The way to become "more than the regular builder" is going to require a LOT more than just some research on the internet and a personal build or two. Build 10 without problems and without needing to look in a book and you're off to a good start.

dans91

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, been working like crazy at the hospital. I will get those for you when I get to my home computer. It is a pretty detailed step by step in the forums here, so that is nice. I am picking my trans up tomorrow (04 80e) and ordering my kit through Jakes as well. I think I am going to hold off on the 300M shaft right now and really pay close attention to researching the hydraulics/lubrication of the engine. Doesn't sound like I'll need the shaft unless I keep the stock lubrication. I am also going with a circle d converter for better insurance (rather than the Midwest stall I was thinking of getting). I will be using the instructions from Jakes and scrapping the idea of using the HD2 kit. I hope to keep this page updated as the build goes on, so that people can have something to follow along with. Thinking about doing a video but we shall see how that goes. I suck at editing. HAHA. Thanks for the help so far guys.