The Servo Release hole (3-4) can be tricky, Servo size, Servo return spring, Band clearance, 3-4 clearance etc. all affect how fast/slow the band will release, I like .101" (#38) for performance builds using a Vette servo.

AFL balance hole, .052"

The top arrow is the servo release/3-4 hole, Bottom arrow is AFL balance.

 

Just what I was looking for.
I have 2nd drilled to .093, 3rd and 4th drilled to .108, using a 4l70e servo with. 060" travel. 7 disc BW high energy 3/4 clutch @ .030 , .490 boost valve, and a stock torque converter. Does this sound reasonable?

 

That sounds good..what apply and backing plates are you running? .80 borgwarnee frictions?

 

AC delco .223 apply, and .193 backing plate. I originally had a terrible 2-3 flare after the first build. I've since added the .490 boost valve, and found a looseness in the 3rd piston area, that I have addressed. I got rid of the generic corvette servo, and got a GM 4l70e servo as well. Hindsight being 20/20 I would have gotten a GM vette servo.

 

Curious if doing it yourself, what kind of price are you looking at for all needed parts to live behind a boosted 6.0, mostly street car

 

I'm estimating $1000.00(ish) for parts, plus converter. I spent a lot on tools as well.
I didn't do mine to save money (In fact I could have saved a ton having mine built), I did it for fun, and to prove to myself that I could. Well I did, and the first time around it had a bad 2-3 flare, so out it came again for more learning(the hard way), fortunately nothing was smoked. bang:
Mine also isn't going behind an expensive high horse engine. I don't want to discourage you, but If I were in your shoes I would think about having a good one built.

 

With the stock diameter torque converter, the 2nd gear feed hole in the separator plate (this is with the Corvette servo) should be .076" with .086" maximum. The part throttle shift will get too firm with anything larger than this, and will be very hard on the splines on everything in the gear train.

 

so my 4l60, recently let go for the 2nd time now, i was just curious if anyone had the part numbers for the parts listed in the first post, as i need to build something that will handle the power im making. right now im make right at 500 to the tire, but a supercharger is in the future and im expecting somewhere in the 800whp range. any help with the part numbers would be much appreciated. i dont want to order the wrong stuff

 

You need a 4L80E, A 4L60E will not hold 800hp long term.

 

Agreed!

 

Has anyone built one with the new planetary gears and 300m input and output shafts. There's a company that's claims 1000hp. pact transmission dose it.

 

Yes, I have built one and you can buy one from FLT. If I ever go past my current 600 HP, e.g. with a supercharger, I will switch to a 4L80E.
The only thing "ultimate" about PATC is their ability to over-promise and under-deliver. They haven't invented anything; just using readily available parts.
The new close-ratio planetary gears are now available from Sonnax for about $600 (IIRC). I have the original billet gear set that cost much more.

 

Sonnax claims that they have built 1000 hp compatible 4L60E's

 

I too have a question for the knowledge bank. I am also preparing to build a 4L60E for my 1995 LT1 Camaro. I am starting with a 2 piece housing unit, exact year unknown. I have already picked up Sonnax 2/4 super survos, smart shell, i will be picking up Sonnax Performance pack and all Sonnax wide bushings. I have also picked up new BW sprags, new bonded pistons, Alto wide Carbon 2/4 band and a "B car" torque converter ( stalls at or near 2250), So here is my question: I was planning on using Blue clutches with koleen steals, but after some reading I believe that would be a mistake. So I am thinking BW HD would be the best option, but definately NOT the paper clutches that come in the standard rebuild kits. Am i thinking this correctly? the car will be used as a work commuter (100 mile round trip) / play toy 400 hp max - in the future, / test bed for my 411 upgrades.
And what else would you recomend for this build? I have built several 4L60's and have about 75% success rate out of 20 or so. I'm just an amature at this shi. Stuff

 

This other current thread on the 3/4 clutch will answer some of your questions:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...s-4l60e-2.html

I tried Blue clutches and they wore out in 1 year with 3000 miles of spirited driving. So go with BW HiEnergy. I personally have used the Raybestos GPZ in my current and several other 4L60E that I drove/raced. They seem to be equivalent to the BW HE, but most of the pros/sponsors here use the BW HE.

Add the best BW forward sprag. Add the Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve; this will keep the overrun clutches engaged in D3 and with this valve (and only with this valve) you should race in D3. (Without the valve, race in OD.)

Why not get a better converter? Even a 3000 stall works great with a stock engine and with any significant cam upgrade you may want a 3600.
What is your rear end ratio?

 

oh alright, I have seen the FLT trans. I guess you don't see to much about 60 built and pushed with that level trans. it looked like a option instead of just going with the huge 80 and the work to fit it.
I did talk to PACT prob 5 years ago, he wouldn't sell or make me a parts list for a 60 that will handle 500hp turbo car. he figured I was either young or it was my first time and tried selling me and 80e. no he builds and offers full kits for 60e.

 

I'm not sure On rear end I'm guessing 3.42 70mph at 2000, And yes I picked up the 2-3 valve as well :-) I believe it is a must have. I need to contact the sponsors, to get prices on rebuild kits.

this converter was $99, I'm $1200 into this thing already, with all of the new hard parts i'm getting. sheesh they are expensive to repair and upgrade, "correctly" that is

 

Well that certanly was fast, Dana sent me his contact info, so I called him. we have to much similar history lol. great guy knowledgeable as any Ive ever met. thanks Dana, enjoyed swapping stupid cop, and race stories from the day

 

If you see this Dana, should I leave these in or not, I am getting answers both ways, and am confused. I think 3rd would work better with out them but I know why they are in there?? anybody??

 

When you see 50% of builders saying one thing and 50% of builders saying the opposite, that often indicates it doesn't really matter.
Their purpose was to reduce wear on the 3/4 clutch when the trans is in 1st and 2nd gear, which is rarely. As mechanics complained that the 3/4 clutch was wearing out due to slippage, many started to remove the springs as that increases the clamping pressure on the clutch by about 8 lbs. Since clamping pressure at full stock line pressure is around 700 lbs, that isn't a big difference.
Therefore, I personally keep the springs in, especially in a performance build with higher line pressure (800 lbs of clamping), drilled separator plate for faster clutch engagement (and less slipping) and tighter clutch clearance.

In short, the springs reduce the clamping force by about 1%, but might reduce the wear on the clutches if you drive a lot in 1st and 2nd gear.