1996 4L60e
Hopefully pro builder Clinebarger will chime in here, but I believe the VB hydraulics are also different and you will need to swap in a complete '95 VB to work with the '95 PCM.
This member may soon have one available because he is going the other way:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-possible.html
And here a detailed posting by Clinebarger are differences in the early years:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...vs-2001-a.html
This member may soon have one available because he is going the other way:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-possible.html
And here a detailed posting by Clinebarger are differences in the early years:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...vs-2001-a.html
The best thing to do is just run a '96-'97 PCM & leave the trans alone....Barring a really good reason to run a 1 year only '95 OBD 1.5 PCM???
If your hell bent on a '95 PCM....
Swap the Valve body AND Plate for a '95 models (With a PWM 3-2 solenoid).
If you swap a PWM downshift solenoid into a "On-Off" Valve Body, Your 3-4 clutch life will be compromised, The PWM solenoid never turns 100% off, And will not allow the 3-2 Control Valve to exhaust 3rd accumulator oil into the 3-4 clutch circuit as it should during a low speed 3-2 downshift.
If your hell bent on a '95 PCM....
Swap the Valve body AND Plate for a '95 models (With a PWM 3-2 solenoid).
If you swap a PWM downshift solenoid into a "On-Off" Valve Body, Your 3-4 clutch life will be compromised, The PWM solenoid never turns 100% off, And will not allow the 3-2 Control Valve to exhaust 3rd accumulator oil into the 3-4 clutch circuit as it should during a low speed 3-2 downshift.
Thank you for the info and explanation of what would happen if only the 3-2 downshift solenoid is swapped.
When mentioned a VB swap, I keep forgetting to say that the separator plate needs to be swapped too; thanks for pointing that out again.
When mentioned a VB swap, I keep forgetting to say that the separator plate needs to be swapped too; thanks for pointing that out again.
Trending Topics
While GM probably made a small change to the lockup friction material when PWM was introduced, I think (correct me if I am wrong) that the difference is very minor and not worth your concern.
UPDATE: Mr Bond disagrees and has much more experience.
If the budget allows, do consider at least an entry level converter from either CircleD or FTI.
UPDATE: Mr Bond disagrees and has much more experience.
If the budget allows, do consider at least an entry level converter from either CircleD or FTI.
Last edited by mrvedit; Mar 2, 2016 at 09:32 AM. Reason: Correction and update
I may be mistaken but I don’t think you can use a non PWM converter on a PWM trans, unless it has been converted to the on/off apply. The clutch material will not hold up to the slow apply. The PWM converter uses a woven carbon material on its clutch.
Not to gang up on you, Ted, but bbond105 is correct.
GM actually has at least three different linings that they used over the years, but if you use a converter with the woven carbon lining, you'll be good in any case. I typically use woven carbon converters and then delete the PWM in the valve body.
GM actually has at least three different linings that they used over the years, but if you use a converter with the woven carbon lining, you'll be good in any case. I typically use woven carbon converters and then delete the PWM in the valve body.
Not to gang up on you, Ted, but bbond105 is correct.
GM actually has at least three different linings that they used over the years, but if you use a converter with the woven carbon lining, you'll be good in any case. I typically use woven carbon converters and then delete the PWM in the valve body.
GM actually has at least three different linings that they used over the years, but if you use a converter with the woven carbon lining, you'll be good in any case. I typically use woven carbon converters and then delete the PWM in the valve body.








