question about flashing a stall..?
Originally Posted by heyitsTaJay
would a stall not flash because it doesnt have enought fluid?
Take a stock set up and drain 3 quarts of fluid. Put it in gear. The car won't move. Give it some gas. The car will creep ahead as the rpms, go higher. Floor the gas and the tach will hit redline and the car might actually move forward faster.
Take a stall converter and make it low on fluid and it will flash way high and may not move the car.
I suggest keeping your fluid level full
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From: DETROIT MUSCLE
sorry...it is kinda confusing now that i read it again. i am not "blowing" the tires off like other people with this stall are. when i nail it...the rpms jump but im not fishtailing and grabbing the wheel. it hauls *** dont get me wrong but other people are experiencing some other things with this stall.
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Originally Posted by heyitsTaJay
sorry...it is kinda confusing now that i read it again. i am not "blowing" the tires off like other people with this stall are. when i nail it...the rpms jump but im not fishtailing and grabbing the wheel. it hauls *** dont get me wrong but other people are experiencing some other things with this stall.
That is the goal here, right? Faster, not tire spin.
If you want John Force rolling smoke shows from your car, you better build the motor
With my PT4400 it spins the tires easier - but it still grabs when above say 25 mph.Just watch your tach. Roll at like 20 mph at 1000 rpm. Floor the gas and see where the tach goes. My Vig 3200 went to around 3600 and stayed there until the car got flying and then it would climb to shift point rpms - like 6000.
That's flashing properly. Sometimes that test WOULD smoke the tires! If so just get cruising along at say 2000 rpm and floor it. Tach should still jum to 3600-3800 and stay there until the car catches up to the rpm. That's the difference from a stock converter letting the motor pull the revs up and a stall converter multiplying the motors torque and getting up to speed with the increased stall.
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From: DETROIT MUSCLE
Originally Posted by chief455
Well my car will only get out of control tirespin from a dead stop and punching it then holding it floored. Try that. When I'm rolling along with my Nittos the car will spin some then just get up and go!
That is the goal here, right? Faster, not tire spin.
If you want John Force rolling smoke shows from your car, you better build the motor With my PT4400 it spins the tires easier - but it still grabs when above say 25 mph.
Just watch your tach. Roll at like 20 mph at 1000 rpm. Floor the gas and see where the tach goes. My Vig 3200 went to around 3600 and stayed there until the car got flying and then it would climb to shift point rpms - like 6000.
That's flashing properly. Sometimes that test WOULD smoke the tires! If so just get cruising along at say 2000 rpm and floor it. Tach should still jum to 3600-3800 and stay there until the car catches up to the rpm. That's the difference from a stock converter letting the motor pull the revs up and a stall converter multiplying the motors torque and getting up to speed with the increased stall.
That is the goal here, right? Faster, not tire spin.
If you want John Force rolling smoke shows from your car, you better build the motor
With my PT4400 it spins the tires easier - but it still grabs when above say 25 mph.Just watch your tach. Roll at like 20 mph at 1000 rpm. Floor the gas and see where the tach goes. My Vig 3200 went to around 3600 and stayed there until the car got flying and then it would climb to shift point rpms - like 6000.
That's flashing properly. Sometimes that test WOULD smoke the tires! If so just get cruising along at say 2000 rpm and floor it. Tach should still jum to 3600-3800 and stay there until the car catches up to the rpm. That's the difference from a stock converter letting the motor pull the revs up and a stall converter multiplying the motors torque and getting up to speed with the increased stall.
this is exactly what i was look for...thanks for the help Chiefj
