what is needed for a LS1 torque convertor upgrade
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what is needed for a LS1 torque convertor upgrade Hello Everyone, as the title reads, what is needed for a torque convertor upgrade for an LS1 ?...By that question, I mean due I need a programmer or someone to tune the computer for me ?
I used to have a 94 LT1 TA A4, which had a 2800 stall TC & 373's, from oem 273's. I had a Hyper tech power programmer for changing the gears. The higher stall did not require any programer change. That car is gone, due to ongoing opti headaches. So now.....
I have a 2000 LS1 TA A4 that I am wanting to upgrade the torque convertor. Also, would it be acceptable to keep the rear gears the same, although I am changing the stall ?
I also have a 2002 LS1 M6 TA. A4 is not as fun, yet. I think once a higher stall is added, it will be.
I used to have a 94 LT1 TA A4, which had a 2800 stall TC & 373's, from oem 273's. I had a Hyper tech power programmer for changing the gears. The higher stall did not require any programer change. That car is gone, due to ongoing opti headaches. So now.....
I have a 2000 LS1 TA A4 that I am wanting to upgrade the torque convertor. Also, would it be acceptable to keep the rear gears the same, although I am changing the stall ?
I also have a 2002 LS1 M6 TA. A4 is not as fun, yet. I think once a higher stall is added, it will be.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
Factory 3.23 gears?
All that's needed is the converter and fluid. While you have the transmission dropped to put in the new converter, I would reccommend a short list of things to do "while you're at it".
I'd install an sfi approved flexplate along with all new hardware. It's cheap, and i've seen more than one broken flexplate cause horrible sounds that people typically attribute to a spun rod. Also, since it will be easy to get to, i'd install a .500 boost valve. This will raise line pressures across the board and help with shift firmness and holding power without the need for any computer mods. Its also cheap and very easy. Then, obviously do a new filter service before you put it back together.
Since you have the driveshaft out, u joints are also cheap and now would be a good time to do them.
I'm the type of guy that likes to tear things apart once and kill 2 (or more) birds with one stone. so none of this is NEEDED but it's all good stuff to do while you have it apart and can access it easily.
All that's needed is the converter and fluid. While you have the transmission dropped to put in the new converter, I would reccommend a short list of things to do "while you're at it".
I'd install an sfi approved flexplate along with all new hardware. It's cheap, and i've seen more than one broken flexplate cause horrible sounds that people typically attribute to a spun rod. Also, since it will be easy to get to, i'd install a .500 boost valve. This will raise line pressures across the board and help with shift firmness and holding power without the need for any computer mods. Its also cheap and very easy. Then, obviously do a new filter service before you put it back together.
Since you have the driveshaft out, u joints are also cheap and now would be a good time to do them.
I'm the type of guy that likes to tear things apart once and kill 2 (or more) birds with one stone. so none of this is NEEDED but it's all good stuff to do while you have it apart and can access it easily.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
I agree with MaroonMonster that while the tranny's out, it's the right time to give it some positive tweaks for your converter. I did a Transgo shift kit which offers a number of benefits; the Sonnax kit also has garnered a lot praise on here. Or you can do the Transgo adding some of the unique Sonnax pieces. Do some searching on this forum in order to decide what's best for you.
Computer tuning may not be strictly necessary, but it can get your tranny to perform optimally to your tastes. Things like shift points, shift times, lock-up points can be tuned to get your tranny feeling "just right" for you.
Computer tuning may not be strictly necessary, but it can get your tranny to perform optimally to your tastes. Things like shift points, shift times, lock-up points can be tuned to get your tranny feeling "just right" for you.
When my '01 Z28 had 92k miles I put in an FTI 3000 rpm stall speed. Already built the trans myself.
5 minutes into the first test drive it went into limp mode due to false misfire detection caused by a smaller diameter converter.
I tuned the misfire tables with hp tuners.
Stock flexplate, stock driveshaft, original u-joints, trans cooler and gauge.
It ran 11.8 back then, with just my own tuning and full exhaust to stock tail pipes and 8" slicks, stock 3.23's.
It now has 115k on it and same old flexplate, u-joints, etc. Will burn the street tires through 3rd. My third circuit in the trans is modified beyond what most people do. Has regular 3-4 8 plate set up.
5 minutes into the first test drive it went into limp mode due to false misfire detection caused by a smaller diameter converter.
I tuned the misfire tables with hp tuners.
Stock flexplate, stock driveshaft, original u-joints, trans cooler and gauge.
It ran 11.8 back then, with just my own tuning and full exhaust to stock tail pipes and 8" slicks, stock 3.23's.
It now has 115k on it and same old flexplate, u-joints, etc. Will burn the street tires through 3rd. My third circuit in the trans is modified beyond what most people do. Has regular 3-4 8 plate set up.
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Thanks for the information everyone. If a decide on a 3000 stall TC and change the 323 gears to 373's, any estimations on my new ET's ?
I do not plan on any other mods or upgrades, and the car is a Daily driver, should I go higher on the stall ?
I do not plan on any other mods or upgrades, and the car is a Daily driver, should I go higher on the stall ?
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
Shoot i forgot to mention a cooler! #1 killer of transmissions is not power, but heat. The 3/4 circuit, more often than not, dies not because there is just so much torque to wipe the clutches clean, but rather that they get too hot, cannot properly dissipate the heat, then burn up after that. A t cooler is an absolute must with a converter upgrade because with that fluid getting whipped around that much more to get you moving, theres going to be a lot of extra heat generated.
do a search and you'll find multiple write ups on where to put one. plenty of room in front of the ac condensor, others hide one in the hole where the AIR pump goes. To each their own.
do a search and you'll find multiple write ups on where to put one. plenty of room in front of the ac condensor, others hide one in the hole where the AIR pump goes. To each their own.
Well the most important part is the FTI converter!
Monster and RevGGTO said it best. Aside from the cooler and probably a tune, the rest is optional but it is always a good idea.
As for converter swap Im sure there's plenty of members here who didn't have access to a lift that can chime in about their experiences pulling the tranny on there back.
Monster and RevGGTO said it best. Aside from the cooler and probably a tune, the rest is optional but it is always a good idea.
As for converter swap Im sure there's plenty of members here who didn't have access to a lift that can chime in about their experiences pulling the tranny on there back.
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
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FTI Converter build sheet
FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
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FTI Converter build sheet
Depends on how high you can get the car up on jack stands, and the tools you have.
Just like a few others, I'm a "while I'm at it" person, so I'd suggest a new flexpate, big cooler with braided lines, deep pan w/ drain plug, and filter at least. Depending on your budget, you can get a better torque arm w/ relocation cross member.
Just like a few others, I'm a "while I'm at it" person, so I'd suggest a new flexpate, big cooler with braided lines, deep pan w/ drain plug, and filter at least. Depending on your budget, you can get a better torque arm w/ relocation cross member.
TECH Junkie
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From: White Bear, Mn
I have done it several times and actually don't mind it. Get the car up on 4 jack stands and everything is arm length away laying on your back.
Was the 2600 a typo?
Was the 2600 a typo?
Thread Starter
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Nope, 2600 was not a typo. I assume you think I should go higher, perhaps 3200 or more ?
I have discussed this issue with many people and read much info, here and elsewhere. Not that I don't appreciate your opinion on this, but what is wrong with a 2600 TC ?
I have discussed this issue with many people and read much info, here and elsewhere. Not that I don't appreciate your opinion on this, but what is wrong with a 2600 TC ?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: White Bear, Mn
The stock converter is a very tight 1800. Going to a 2600 imo is not worth it period. With that said I think 3.73's and a 2600 vs a coyote will be a very close race.
Now if you were to do 3.73's and a yank ss3600 or ss4000 with a good radial it will still drive like stock with the 3.73's and you will have no problem rolling up a stock coyote.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Right, a 2600 stall converter isn't going to be worth it.
The mentioned Yank SS3600 is a very tight converter in street driving. I'm pretty conservative in stall speeds, but will definitely say that 2600 is too low. A 3600 with a 3.73 rear is a very conservative setup.
What brand converter are you looking at?
The mentioned Yank SS3600 is a very tight converter in street driving. I'm pretty conservative in stall speeds, but will definitely say that 2600 is too low. A 3600 with a 3.73 rear is a very conservative setup.
What brand converter are you looking at?
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
To realize any significant gains from a gear swap once you have a 3500+ stall speed in place, you'd have to consider 4.10 ratio or higher (and some serious tires to match.)
A 3600 stall and the stock 3.23s would be a much, much better choice.
Furthermore, I wouldn't worry about the flexplate with a 2000 model year for the driving purpose you have outlined above. '98-'00 received a much better stock flexplate than '01+.
As for tuning, the '01+ PCM is more sensitive to higher stall speeds, and there are sometimes issues with those that don't usually occur with the earlier models. The only issue I've ever had with the '98-'00 cars is a slight idle surge (due to unloading the engine at idle) with a higher stall speed and stock tuning.
