Engine Swap Converter Trouble
Engine Swap Converter Trouble I got my 6.0 in my 04 Tahoe today. While I was at it I put a cheap Pro King trailblazer converter in. The engine fired up and i got oil pressure right away so I revved it for a while for break-in and it ran like it should. However, when I put it in gear it makes a bad noise. It sounds like grinding. Of course it's hard to explain with written words. Also, it causes enough friction to kill the motor at idle. It moves forward in D and backward in R but I have to keep my foot in it a little to keep it running.
When I was installing the converter bolts, the space between the converter and flex plate looked good. However, one of the bolts I grabbed was the wrong one. It was the right thread but too long. I was trying to get it to torque to 44 lb ft but it wouldn't. I tried for a while. Then, assuming something wasn't right, I pulled it out and realized it was the wrong bolt so put the correct one in and it torqued right up as expected. the only thing I can think of is that maybe I distorted the pad on the converter and it now sits crooked causing the friction in the transmission when in gear.
Any ideas? I know I have to drop the trans again but I'd like to just do it once. I'm planning to try the stock converter but if I worry that I've already trashed the pump. What do you think? I need to get my truck back on the road. I wasn't expecting to run into this.
When I was installing the converter bolts, the space between the converter and flex plate looked good. However, one of the bolts I grabbed was the wrong one. It was the right thread but too long. I was trying to get it to torque to 44 lb ft but it wouldn't. I tried for a while. Then, assuming something wasn't right, I pulled it out and realized it was the wrong bolt so put the correct one in and it torqued right up as expected. the only thing I can think of is that maybe I distorted the pad on the converter and it now sits crooked causing the friction in the transmission when in gear.
Any ideas? I know I have to drop the trans again but I'd like to just do it once. I'm planning to try the stock converter but if I worry that I've already trashed the pump. What do you think? I need to get my truck back on the road. I wasn't expecting to run into this.
FormerVendor
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 323
Likes: 3
If you used a bolt that's too long and it dimpled the lockup clutch surface, you would get the described symptoms. Changing converters and using the appropriate bolt length SHOULD fix your issue. Drop the pan and change the filter as well because you probably have a good amount of clutch debris in there if this is the case...
-Brian
-Brian
You were right. I could see in the bolt hole where the bolt had damaged the case. I think it's softer there than it looks. Anyway, I also changed the filter. The fluid looked pretty good bit there was one tiny piece of metal on the pan. Now it's flaring between shifts and not acting right. I'm sure some hydraulic circuit got restricted. I'm going to have to build a transmissin.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Before pulling the trans, check the simple things:
1. Fluid level is correct.
2. Correct trans filter is installed - your Tahoe likely takes the taller truck filter
3. Filter fits tightly into its ring.
1. Fluid level is correct.
2. Correct trans filter is installed - your Tahoe likely takes the taller truck filter
3. Filter fits tightly into its ring.
Does anyone have any suggestions on solid rebuild kits? I've used PATC and I've bought parts from Dana. I'm trying to keep it simple. Dana's kit looks to be the most comprehensive, although I don't know if I want to change the stator shaft. It seems like the risky part.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,615
Likes: 1,326
From: Iowa
I'd find a transmission supply house near you and piece a "kit" together yourself. Standard paper/rubber kit, stock frictions, for everything except the 3/4. I personally use an 8 clutch GPZ setup in the 3/4, others use borg warner, some use 7 some use 9, its preference. Then an HD2 shift kit with sonnax .500 boost valve. A 65 should have a "corvette" servo, but doublecheck to be sure.
I also like an extra wide carbon 2/4 band NOT KEVLAR! I'd also get a 13 vane pump with hardened rings. You shouldn't need many hard parts which will keep the price down.
If you do want to upgrade the internals (if you plan to make more hp) then look into 5 pinion planets, sonnax sunshell, sonnax input drum reinforcement, 29 element sprag (double cage)
Another popular rebuild option is just a 4l65e rebuild kit (better 3/4 setup) with a shift kit.
I also like an extra wide carbon 2/4 band NOT KEVLAR! I'd also get a 13 vane pump with hardened rings. You shouldn't need many hard parts which will keep the price down.
If you do want to upgrade the internals (if you plan to make more hp) then look into 5 pinion planets, sonnax sunshell, sonnax input drum reinforcement, 29 element sprag (double cage)
Another popular rebuild option is just a 4l65e rebuild kit (better 3/4 setup) with a shift kit.
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I bet a straight up 4l65e kit with a shift kit would work fine. the 65 should already have 5 pinion planets. I have just never seen a 4l65e kit. They're all 4l60e/4l65e/4l70e kits.
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Verdad Gallardo There's one on ebay for about $180. The part number from the transtar catalog is 74008GP or 74008GPF. I bet this and an HD2 kit would do what I need and be relatively inexpensive.
Actually, I think I like this rebuild kit and the Sonnax Performance pack. I'm getting excited! Since I have a transmission from a running truck, I think I can get this done for under $500 and I think it will be a good one.