So a few months ago I had an reverse sprag give in my FLT Level5 4L60E w/ Yank 3600 and a local transmission shop rebuilt it and now it really seems like it has a whine coming from it like a gear whine. But while this "transmission shop" was reinstalling everything they took a 1/2" impact to the pinion yoke nut and went until it wouldn't go anymore in his exact words, never torqued it. Well that trashed the rear bearing.


Question is there any fluids people like better than others that might quiet things in the transmission? Amsoil, Redline, or something else?


Also if it matters since all this rebuilding stuff I haven't put 20 miles on it so maybe there's a break-in period?


Thanks Everyone

 

I broke mine in for a few hundred miles taking it easy, that's if the clutches/band was replaced. Then change fluid sometime after that. I just use generic dex/merc blend.

 

Thanks, I'm sure it's just my OCD setting in with everything that has gone wrong all the way back to August lol. The shop owner that rebuilt the 12 bolt also said since I haven't driven the car since adding the new 3 1/2" Aluminum Driveshaft and on top of that the after market torque arm I'm going to pick up a lot of harmonics.


If you don't mind I know you answer a lot of drivetrain questions for everyone but also when fixing the 12 bolt a set of new Richmond gears were added and even after setting them a couple different times they are noisy which I get Richmond's are naturally noisy but also is there a break-in period? Also my Eaton Diff seems to be locking pretty noticeably parking lot jump especially in reverse turning so probably could use a bit more Friction Modifier but do you have any recommendation on a fluid? I was looking into something like Redline Oils shockproof oils or maybe something from Amsoil to help quiet the rear down.

 

How do you know it trashed the rear bearing?

Get a dial type inch pound torque wrench and check the pinion bearing preload.

 

I picked the car up from the transmission shop and actually turned around it was so bad in rearend bearing noise. He said he never torques them goes until it won't anymore. Drove it straight over to another shop and replaced the bearings. So all that is taken care the rear noise is gone minus a bit of ring and pinion whining from the Richmonds.

 

Guess I touched on the wrong point.

Theres a problem if you need a particular fluid to get rid of transmission noise.

It's either the rear gears or something wrong.

The best thing to do would be to get the car off the ground, check the pinion preload, check the backlash, check the contact pattern. If theres no problem there put regular gear oil in it and follow the manufacturers break in instructions.

When it's done with break in put some gear oil in it with two 4 ounce bottles of ford friction modifier and deal with it. They're Richmond gears. I've heard they are more noisy for over 20 years, I tend to believe it.

 

Probably right in that I need to be patient and break-in the gears and newly rebuilt transmission, it's hard when you spend a ton of money kind of unexpectedly to not be paranoid. I've read that the torque arm can really make a lot of noise carrying the acoustics from the gears and the transmission is that true?


Thanks but after looking around I know I'm beating a dead horse topic here as I'm not the first with these questions but over the years maybe owners have more insight on these topics.

 

I'm currently running richmond 410s and they are ******* noisy. Luckily I dont drive the car enough to care.

 

I had a used factory 3.42 R & P installed, and some time later, my friend had new 3.73 Richmonds put in. Same tech installed both. Mine are silent, his are noisy.

And, as was stated above, there's no reason a newly rebuilt tranny should be making noise as long as it's full of fluid - other than a mechanical problem.

 

Yeah I'm afraid everyone is most likely correct on transmission but I'm just trying to put my head in the sand on the issue ugh. Sucks but looks like I will be contacting the shop that did all the work and make them go through it again. Bad part is and I get it but most shops answer to everything is "yep I hear it or feel it but just go until it breaks or gives". I get it saves a lot of time diagnosing issues but man that's a tough pill to swallow. At least the Transmission shop did put a 6 month warranty on it, they usually offer a 2 year but said due to what it was going back into no go on mine.

 

So I thought I would look at the current tune and compare it with what was in the car efore I had the transmission fixed, I noticed a few changes with the current transmission tune over what was in the car before shop repairs.

Force Motor is different - Now higher except at 0 and 100, at 100 now says -1,025

Normal Shift Pressure are negative now and Performance stayed the same

Shift Multipler is now at all Zeros

TCC Duty Cycle Maximum now vari from -1 to -4 and now minimum is changed a bunch was ay 98 now only at 7 to 21

Abuse Mode is now Enable was disabled before was disabled

Torque Reduction was at Zero before now it's not

Not sure if anything here is of concern but will post new file.

 

The part about running the pinion nut down till it won't move anymore makes me heated. Whoever that idiot is, needs a thorough beating. No, an inch pound gauge isn't really necessary as it can be done by feel.....but running it till the impact won't move anymore.....ASININE. Wait a minute, you said "pinion". You talking about the rear end....or transmission??

 

Was the pinion nut on rear end, when I asked wtf he said that's how he always has done them on everything. I picked the car up and turned right around and asked if they heard any noises, they replied "nope but we drove with the cut outs open the whole time"!! The howling was crazy bad metal on metal.

 

How do you like the 4.10s overall? What did you have before in? I had a few people trying to talk me into 4.10s but decided to leave the 3.73s as my car will almost always see only the street.

 

Ive had 323, 373, 410. I went to the 410 bc I run a 28" at the drag strip. Overall very little difference driving around town (with a 26.5") except it pulls better at low rpm.