converter choice
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2013
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converter choice it seems yank circle d and precision industries vigilante are the top of the line.
If I'm dropping $3k on a transmission I don't want to go cheap on a converter. RPM suggested the vigilante but I don't see much talk about them here. Are any of them better for a car that is street driven a lot? and what stall? I've been told 3600 is about perfect for a street car
car will be heads/cam and sees nothing but the street with spirited driving no drag strip. Do I need to compromise performance to cruise down the interstate at 75? Because I want to be able to stomp on it and it jump up in rpm right away pretty much no matter what speed I'm going if I'm rolling beside someone at 30 or 70. idk what all the stall changes because I've never driven a car with a performance stall. Performance is really the priority over street manners though as I want the car to be as nasty as possible at all speeds ha
If I'm dropping $3k on a transmission I don't want to go cheap on a converter. RPM suggested the vigilante but I don't see much talk about them here. Are any of them better for a car that is street driven a lot? and what stall? I've been told 3600 is about perfect for a street car
car will be heads/cam and sees nothing but the street with spirited driving no drag strip. Do I need to compromise performance to cruise down the interstate at 75? Because I want to be able to stomp on it and it jump up in rpm right away pretty much no matter what speed I'm going if I'm rolling beside someone at 30 or 70. idk what all the stall changes because I've never driven a car with a performance stall. Performance is really the priority over street manners though as I want the car to be as nasty as possible at all speeds ha
Had a vigilante 3200. Drove great. No issues. Hit okay, nothing impressive. Swapped it for a circle D 5C 4000+ stall. All i can say is that it drove just as good and pulls like a monster up top.
definitely suggest circle D 5C.. i wouldnt go any smaller than a 4000 honestly. Those quality is amazing.
definitely suggest circle D 5C.. i wouldnt go any smaller than a 4000 honestly. Those quality is amazing.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I would probably pick a Yank SS3600 for that setup, unless the cam specs put the power band high enough that 4000 is a better choice. PI/Vig is also a great unit. I have zero personal experience with Circle D, so no advice to offer there.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,627
Likes: 2,543
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Yank used to have an SY-series (Super Yank) that was extreme high efficiency, they were a bit more expensive and didn't hit quite as hard on launch but I remember actually gaining a bit of trap speed over stock with an SY3500. They also had a 4000 unit. Yank hasn't built these models in years, not sure if they would still do something custom in this regard. But their current off the shelf products are still very good IMO; they used to be just a bit more efficient than PI/Vig across the board from what I remember, not sure if that's still the case.
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 478
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From: Indiana
I agree with RPM WS6 here. RPM Trans might have a tighter relationship with Vigilante but I highly doubt they would tell you Yank and Circle D are anything less than the company they suggested. I don't have experience with Circle D or Vigilante because I went with my Yank SS3600 and never needed to look anywhere else. I'm sure other people can say the same and vice-versa.
The thing with a high stall is if you up your gear ratio to 3.73 or 3.90s it makes it that much more enjoyable on the street. The higher gears compensate for the higher stall and it will drive like stock in low rpms and feel amazing in the upper rpms so win-win.
Lastly, you said you're going with a heads/cam setup so if you get a small or mild cam you can go with either the 3600 or 4000. If you get a cam in the low23X/high23X durations or bigger get the 4000.
The thing with a high stall is if you up your gear ratio to 3.73 or 3.90s it makes it that much more enjoyable on the street. The higher gears compensate for the higher stall and it will drive like stock in low rpms and feel amazing in the upper rpms so win-win.
Lastly, you said you're going with a heads/cam setup so if you get a small or mild cam you can go with either the 3600 or 4000. If you get a cam in the low23X/high23X durations or bigger get the 4000.
Fill out a custom converter form from FTI, Circle D, or Yank. It'll ask for your goals and current mods. Either of those converters are top notch, so you'll end up with a quality stall anyways.
I'm currently running a North Texas Converter.
I'm currently running a North Texas Converter.
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I think the multi disc thing is more for lockup at WOT or Towing.
I was told by "Yank" (the owner) that I could lock my 9.5" single disc unit up on a dyno once or twice and it would be fine at 500-600 horsepower. Just don't beat it up doing that over and over, and don't try it during a WOT run. Lock it up, then put the foot down for the run.
I was told by "Yank" (the owner) that I could lock my 9.5" single disc unit up on a dyno once or twice and it would be fine at 500-600 horsepower. Just don't beat it up doing that over and over, and don't try it during a WOT run. Lock it up, then put the foot down for the run.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 204
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I think the multi disc thing is more for lockup at WOT or Towing.
I was told by "Yank" (the owner) that I could lock my 9.5" single disc unit up on a dyno once or twice and it would be fine at 500-600 horsepower. Just don't beat it up doing that over and over, and don't try it during a WOT run. Lock it up, then put the foot down for the run.
I was told by "Yank" (the owner) that I could lock my 9.5" single disc unit up on a dyno once or twice and it would be fine at 500-600 horsepower. Just don't beat it up doing that over and over, and don't try it during a WOT run. Lock it up, then put the foot down for the run.
thanks for the feedback so far
lock up is when the convertor couples 1 to 1 instead of varying rpm's/stalling. Once in lock up at lower throttle inputs a high stall will act like the stock stall.
You cant lock a stock convertor or a single disc stall at wot without risk of damage but multi disc convertors can be locked up at wot to eliminate slip and gain efficiency at wot.
There was a post a year or so ago forced induction build that gained something like 50 hp and 80 ft lbs just by being able to lock the convertor at wot , it gave him a good bump in trap speed as well
You cant lock a stock convertor or a single disc stall at wot without risk of damage but multi disc convertors can be locked up at wot to eliminate slip and gain efficiency at wot.
There was a post a year or so ago forced induction build that gained something like 50 hp and 80 ft lbs just by being able to lock the convertor at wot , it gave him a good bump in trap speed as well
also, in case you are wondering like I did years ago when I first discovered lockup, since auto transmissions can go 1:1 like a manual trans, why do autos still use more fuel (worse parasitic loss) than a manual trans?
Answer: Autos typically have more moving parts and heavier moving parts = more rotating mass/drag = more power consumption.