silver_69

I have a sun gear out of my 2003 4l60e that is not good. It was stuck in the sun shell and damaged the sun gear and the front planet. I ordered these parts and received them today. Everything appears to fit together well however my sun gear is 1/4 inch shorter than the one I received. Given how black and burnt the old one is it could be due to damage but I want to make sure there is not different lengths on sun gears based on the year they came from.

PBA

I have never seen one wear that bad before. The new one is correct. Check out everything else closely here.

clinebarger

The snap ring came off & the sun gear got into the reaction shaft, You drove it a long time like that!! It didn't make noise??

Did the thrust washer on the Low-Roller race get damaged also?

silver_69

My replies are not showing up. The snap ring was missing. I bought the transmission used as "Recently Rebuilt". I think the re-builder must have forgotten it. I tried to contact the person I bought it from but you know how that goes. I bought it as is.

Low roller was fine. Washer was fine. Sun shell damaged, Front Planet carrier damaged.

No noise. It actually worked decent but it had issue shifting in and out of third gear.

I posted pictures 2 days ago but apparently I did it wrong.

silver_69

Here are the pictures. I Tried adding them to my post a different way.

silver_69

Here are the parts I am replacing.

Front Planet *Front Sungear to rear Sungear"
Sonnax Smart Shell
Low Reverse drum
Torrington Bearings
Bushings
Pistons. (Originals are aluminum)
Upgraded 3-4 Clutch Pack.
Overhaul kit. (Frictions, Steels, Paper etc...)
Wide 2-4 Band.
Corvette Servo.

clinebarger

The torrington that goes between the shell & reaction shaft does not come in torrington bearing kits, The GM part number is 24217328.

Check the Reaction Carrier (Rear Planet) real good, I would replace it as some of that metal surely got to the captured bearing in the carrier. The pump is another area of concern with all that metal floating around.

silver_69

I plan on rebuilding the pump also. I didn't think about the captured torrington in the rear planet. I will be replacing the rear planet also. I already have a replacement torrington for between the reaction shaft and shell shell area.

All of the torrington bearing feel gritty. I am definitely not going to reuse them.

Are there any parts in the pump I need to watch out for. I am replacing the boost valve. I am not sure if I should use the 10 or 13 vane kit in it. Any Pro's and con's of each would be appreciated.

I will also be replacing the torque converter.
Flushing the cooler and lines. I will probably upgrade the cooler.

This will be my first automatic transmission rebuild so any advice would be great. I have rebuilt several standard transmissions, trans-axles, Rear axles etc. Just never tackled an automatic before. It should be interesting. I got my head wrapped around how it works. I understand cleanliness and clearances end-play and all that good stuff.

Please chime in with any pitfalls the I might need to watch out for.

Please keep in mind I am not trying to build a 1000 HP beast. I am trying to get one going that will last a while sitting behind a 5.3 in a 1500 4wd pickup.

clinebarger

13V pumps are quieter, 10V pumps are stronger everything being equal.

Get a Trans Go +5,500 pump ring & primer spring kit.

Install a new slide pin.

Check the pump body & cover for wear from the pump rotor.

Do you have a manual for basic stuff?

silver_69

Are you referring to Transgo 700-PKH. and Sonnax 65797?

I have a Tech Guide (Theory of Operations) and The ATRA book by Cliff McCormick. Both are very thorough.

I have not taken the pump apart yet. Hopefully by next weekend. I have too many honey do's right now.

silver_69

I am looking for a rear planet and I keep seeing Oil slinger and non-oil slinger. How do I tell the difference? What one do I want? I would think oil slinger. But I may be wrong.

Also I found one that says no lube dam. Please enlighten me.