2000 T/A 4l60e, 4k stall, B&M cooler. No codes.

Hey guys, my problems started about 2 weeks ago. Just cruising like normal around 75-80mph and the converter started slipping. Not bad, only like 250-300 rpm. I thought that was weird and then it went back to normal and locked the rest of the drive. Now its getting worse and doing almost all the time. I hooked it up to a scanner and the brake switch is good. The TCC is commanded ON. No misfires. Same symptoms in 3rd. I played around and turned the TCC solenoid off and it was a big difference. Instead of slipping a few hundred RPM it was about 6-800 driving 60. Temps skyrocketed as well when I turned it off. Is it hurting the TCC to slip that much in OD? I have stopped driving it until I get it figured out one way or the other. I have read about the TCC solenoid being weak and also the PWM being weird. Any input guys? I don't want to eat up this trans if it can be stopped. Trans go kit fix these issues?

Thanks

Matt

 

What kind of converter is it? Does it have a billet front cover? What type of clutch material (if you know)?

I consider a Transgo kit or similar product that will eliminate PWM to be essential when running a small diameter aftermarket converter. The only question now is whether you've chewed up your clutch enough so that it's too late.

The real danger is that clutch completely disintegrating and then taking out your trans.

 

Its a TCI Super Street Fighter from what the part number (242932) came up as...I know, I know. It was already in there. I have done the research with the TCI converters' clutches. It does not have a billet front cover, just a plain ole 10". It hasn't really been running hot from what I have seen. In town it was around 190-200. Out on the highway I was seeing 178-185. Hopefully that's an indication that it hasn't done too much damage. It still holds occasionally which makes me think its something else and not the clutch at this point. I think I'll drop the pan and do a filter change and get a Transgo kit.

Anyone else feel free to chime in.

Thanks

 

As the TCC regulator valve wears, the converter starts to slip and eventually gives a 1870 code. The Transgo HD2 kit replaces the PWM regulator valve with an ON/OFF valve which tends to hold better. If the bore is well worn, the Fitzall valve with its O-rings might work even better; it also is an On/Off valve as is the valve that comes with the Sonnax Performance Pack.
Note that Sonnax also sells a PWM replacement valve, but this requires an expensive reamer, experience using the reamer and an oversize valve. Unless you are driving Ms Daisy, the On/Off valve tends to be a better choice for people on this forum. You will feel the TCC engagement but I find that desirable.

In short, the Transgo HD2 kit might help, but if that looks like too much work, consider the Fitzall valve. With luck you might be able to install it without removing the valve body as described in their video:

http://www.fitzall.com/supportDetail.php?A74741Q-188

 

Hmmmm that valve could do the trick. The trans shifts fine as far as I can tell. It did show shift timing errors on the Snap-On scanner. I'm thinking thats due to the stall. WOT shifts are nice and firm. Only complaint is the converter locking issue.

Thank you mrvedit. I think I will try this and see what happens.

 

I'd get that converter outta there. The fact that it's slipping on lock-up now shows that it's already compromised. That clutch is a cheap paper material, and even with a PWM fix, it may crap out on you. In that situation, you won't only have to replace the converter, but go through the entire tranny besides.

 

I would listen to what REV told you.
This will/could confirm what he's saying.
2nd converter cut open is the same manufacture as yours.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html

 

I'd drop the pan and put a TCC solenoid and filter in it first very easy to do. Also you will be able to see if there is any debris in the pan. As far as cruising without tcc 6-800 slip if pushing gas enough wouldn't be a big deal but if your barely on the throttle and it seems to be doing that then something is up. But cheap and easy fix may be what I said to try first. I'd try that before ripping out trans and converter.

 

Yea I'm not about to drop that much change on a new converter just because its a TCI. If I had a Yank instead, everyone would say its just the solenoid. I wouldn't put a new converter in a possibly hurt trans anyway. That's just asking for trouble. I'll drop the pan and check it out. It slips on occasion and I can feel it trying to lock up. If the clutch was toast it would never lock. This is intermittent. Thanks for the insight though guys.

 

While I certainly agree with RevGTO and suspect you will be forced to replace the converter sooner or later, I often suggest the minimum "fix" which has a reasonable probability of giving some satisfaction, even if not a long-term solution.

 

Thank you. I appreciate that. I like to keep it simple as well. I have found many fixes to be just that, simple. After doing some more research on the converter, it may have a billet front cover. I can't remember and didn't take any pictures when I dropped the motor in. Not sure if that really changes anything with the clutch but it might? I think its a non issue at this point, but if I have to, yes I will rebuild the trans and get a new converter. Right now, I'm just trying to drive the thing. I am going to do the Fitzall valve, along with the transgo kit. From my understanding there are 2 or 3 things that control the lock up? PWM, TCC soleniod and the valve right? Please correct me it I'm wrong.

 

I don’t think it is the solenoid. Your description of the problem sounds like a worn TCC regulator valve bore in the valve body which the Fitzall valve should correct. A defective TCC solenoid would cause the TCC clutch to not come on at all or if shorted to ground or stopped up cause it not to unlock.

 

That makes sense. Thank you.

 

I have the same set up *** you
2000 TA
Ls1 intake
Ms3
3.73
Bolt ons
Performance driveshaft
But I rolling with a YankSS 3600
Just perfect no problems go with yank expensive but well worth the money best money ever spent

 

Well I think the issue is fixed for now. I did the transgo kit and the fitzall valve. Its been running for a couple weeks and haven't had the symptoms even under a pretty heavy load. Hope this can help someone else out there. The install really isn't that bad at all. Just take your time and read the instructions. Transgos video helps as well. I put on a Dorman truck pan with a drain plug as well.

 

Any benefits on this valve on a high mileage, good running tranny?

 

What were your TCC PWM settings in the tune? Stock?

 

It takes the pwm out of the equation. Itstead of a slow application of the tcc, it's on/off. Feels like another shift. My trans has 97k as far as I know. Not easy miles either I don't think.

 

No clue. Haven't bought hptuners yet. That's the next things on my list for the car, granted nothing breaks before then. I can find out when I get to the guy that tuned the car before I had it. I doubt the scanner would show info like that.

 

The Transgo kit takes out the PWM mechanically (hydraulically) even if it's not tuned out. I found it necessary to tune out 3rd gear lock up though.