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Yes, PBA (Dana) is one of the experienced and respected 4L60E (and 700R4 and others) trans builders for the past 20+ years.
It is always greatly appreciated when he posts his knowledge and "secrets" here.
Whenever Dana shares some of his knowledge I always save it to a word document and put it in a file for future reference.
Anybody running a built 4L60E shifting at 7000+ rpm? If so, who's trans do you have? I'm debating whether to stay with 4L60E or go TH400.
If you care at this point I had a 392 stroker lt1 in a 1994 z28 drag car that had a solid roller that I was shifting at 8700-9200 rpm with a 4l60e and a vigilante 4500 triple disk converter. It lived through one season and lost the 3-4 clutch in it but this was way before the sonnax smart tech was available. I was at the track and street racing every Saturday night and it had a 200 shot of I needed it street racing. I believe had that been avalible then it would have lived as everything was cherry in it. It actually wasn't to the point of not working just saw time falling off so tore it down and saw was slipping. The car was 3200 lbs and running 1.38 60s 10.00@132-134 pretty consistently on all motor. Didn't have a 9 sec cage so never sprayed at the track.
Currently running a 4l60e in my 2007 tahoe 5.3 with a lsa blower 14 lbs of boost. Not dynoed but fast enough to run door to door with newer 5.0 mustangs so a 6500 lbs tahoe running 110-114 mph in the quarter is making so power. Had I not snapped the hardened GM 4l70e shaft the trans was holding up well in a 4x4 that I would do all wheel drive launches with. It is currently apart getting the sonnax billet shaft I am actually in the garage now swapping it all over. I build for a living so do all my own tranny work and know these units well. Rpm was the killer back in the day of these or heavy vehicle and lots of power but not any more. I run a 700r4 in a 800+whp 1992 formula firebird single turbo too that runs 150+ in the quarter mile. If it's build right 8000 -9000 rpm shifts won't bother it. I will say I destroyed a few th350s in the 1994 z28 and went back to the 4l60e with that car and it never broke.
Yes, PBA (Dana) is one of the experienced and respected 4L60E (and 700R4 and others) trans builders for the past 20+ years.
It is always greatly appreciated when he posts his knowledge and "secrets" here.
Despite being a fan of the 4L60E/4L65E/4L70E for cars even in the 500-650 HP range, I would recommend a 4L80E above 650HP and recommend that for you.
For one a top-level 4L60E will all the billet parts and the mentioned 6-pinion front planet is going to cost $5000 and still won't be as strong as a moderately build 4L80E.
for a race car I wouldn't bother with that hp soaking tank. There is no need for that big and heavy transmission in a race car unless it is making 1000 plus hp and heavy.
Awaiting on a TH400 with rmvb/trans brake being built by ProformanceRacingTramsmission in Woodstock, about 30 mins from me. They hooked me up with a 400 that can handle over 1300 HP, which is more than what I need, but not even closed to the cost of the highest level 4L60E out there! I can't wait to make some passes!
for a race car I wouldn't bother with that hp soaking tank. There is no need for that big and heavy transmission in a race car unless it is making 1000 plus hp and heavy.
How much power does a 80E rob compared to a 60E? How much more does it weigh without the stock converters in the equation?
4l60e 7500-8k rpm. Can you be more spec. Or pictures , where you blocked the hole @
Can you be more specific or pictures where you blocked the hole in the drum. And where you drilled the new one in the piston .can you send a picture with a mark in the area.
what else you did for the transmission to hold those high rpms.
how long did they last.
can it also be a depenable. Daily driver .
Originally Posted by PBA
I have had several going over 7,400 rpm over the years, and three going over 8,000 rpm. Use the Hi-rpm TransGo pump spring and use the "inner" spring from their Standard pump spring kit. Add the inner spring to the outer spring. This will keep line pressure up to well over 8,000 rpm. If it is a 13 vane setup, replace the 13 vane rotor with the 10 vane rotor. Leave the 13 vane slide in. This will have more volume and faster line pressure recovery on the shifts. If this is "drag racing only", find a good condition 7 vane rotor if you can, otherwise stay with the 10 vane rotor. Always use the steel rings from the TransGo pump kit. The standard kit and the Hi-rpm kit, steel rings are the same. You must use the TransGo 7-CS spring kit when going into the 8,000 rpm territory. Block off the checkball in the input drum under the 3-4 piston, and drill a .035" hole at the bottom of the 3-4 piston bore at the very outside edge just under where the piston seal touches the bottom of the bore. This will prevent centrifuging here (bringing on the 3-4 clutches) at the top of 1st and 2nd gear. This should give you an idea of what is needed to do this right.
This is the location he's refering to. This picture actually shows a drum that has had the checkball capsule driven out and replaced with an orifice. If you don't want to buy the special orifice you see in the pic...you can just plug it and drill the hole in the drum itself.
as for what else he did...he states it all very clearly. Pump slide spring, 10 vane rotor. steel rings. 7-cs springs.
He probably also ran the 3/4 clearance very tight.
As for how long do they last and if it will be reliable...that's a judgement call. What do you determine lasting? or reliable?
This is the location he's refering to. This picture actually shows a drum that has had the checkball capsule driven out and replaced with an orifice. If you don't want to buy the special orifice you see in the pic...you can just plug it and drill the hole in the drum itself.
as for what else he did...he states it all very clearly. Pump slide spring, 10 vane rotor. steel rings. 7-cs springs.
He probably also ran the 3/4 clearance very tight.
As for how long do they last and if it will be reliable...that's a judgement call. What do you determine lasting? or reliable?
1 year...5 years...one race season...etc
where did you still the. 035 hole in the 3-4 piston bottom edge seal. Can you send a picture of the 3-4 setup. 1-5 year on daily basis. Etc
Somewhere around here. You want to be just barely inside the sealing surface for the 3/4 piston.
Don't touch the sealing surface with the drill or you might as well throw the drum out.
Oh...and making daily 8000rpm shifts for 5 years is probably not a realistic expectation for most guys that build their own. It's possible...but don't think it's easy
08-12-2017, 02:39 PM
