Anybody running a built 4L60E shifting at 7000+ rpm? If so, who's trans do you have? I'm debating whether to stay with 4L60E or go TH400.

 

I'm running a 4l60e that I built shifting at 6,800. Not 7000 but figured I would throw it out there.

 

Well let me put this more clearly. Peak power at the chassis dyno is at 7500 rpm for my new combo. So with that said, this will need to be shifted up there for max performance at the track.

 

Any of the sponsor built 4L60E should have no trouble at 7500. For high RPM operation, a high RPM spring much be installed in the pump and the Transgo cage springs should probably be installed too. With those mods I shift as high as 7200 without problems.

 

Never mind guys. I give up, I will be going with a Turbo400 or maybe a 350. I will need to shift this baby way up to 8000+ rpm for optimum performance at the track. Also, its going to require an 8" 62-6400 rpm stall. I don't think theres any built 4L60E out there, no matter what level it would be that can withstand 8000+ rpm. Please disregard this post. Thank you.

 

Performabuilt lvl 3 At 7600 a couple times now. No real miles or time on it yet to say anything about reliability but it didn't skip a beat.

 

Powerglide...

 

Thanks, but good to hear its holding up so far.

I was thinking about this as well. I'm wondering if my combo makes enough power to run a glide. Peak power is at 7500 rpm, peak torque is at 6400 rpm. Will need to be shift at 8000+ rpm.

 

I'm still sticking with my 4l60e. Just sent it to rpm. I'm gonna get it built right once and for all. No more "local" builds. I know you keep going back and forth on transmissions and I have to. There really isn't one right or wrong decision. A well built 4l will work great for you as would a th350 a th200 a th400 and a powerglide. I think an efficient 3 speed will be a little "quicker" than a pg or 4l. If you are staying on motor and ok with spending some coin I'd look into the th200 or even better a proflite trans which would be the ultimate.

 

Gonna lose that 1st gear going away from a 4l. I imagine your aware. Just throwing it out there since you seem to have a high rpm screamer, might like a little help off the line.

 

If you do stick with the 4l60e I'd consider the 6 pinion planetary with "lower" gear ratio's. no need for a 3.06 1st gear especially with all the power you have.

 

I doubt very much that a built 4L60E will be able handle these rpms(8000+), if it did, it would have to have a manual valve body, then your best bet would be back to TH350, or 400 with manual valve body. Yes you have manufacturer with their high level 4L60E that can handle 1000 hp thru boost/turbo, but then again they are not being spun up in the rpm range as you would with an all out naturally aspirated build. That is why you'll only see built TH350's,400's and glides in the racing scenes.

 

Hey just trying offer advice and my .02 You have a nice combo I'm sure it's gonna run great with whatever trans you end up going with

 

No worries, and thanks I really appreciate all your input on this dilemma.

 

I can burn-up/break ANY 4L60E based transmission with 600 ft lbs of torque in a 3,500+ pound car that will hook.

Why not a 4L80E?

 

This is why I went with the 80.
Yes it's heavier but as you mentioned , my car dead hooks (at the track) and hits the DR's hard and doesn't need the 3.06 1st gear to get it out of the hole and the ratios are only .04 off the 350 it replaced.

And if I leave it in D3 or lower, when messing around on the street or making a pass it "should" be ok as it's partially a 400 which is stronger then the 350 I've been beating on for the last 15yrs.
That was a stock rebld with a shift kit.

 

4L80E is a TH400 without the overdrive. Car is more track oriented than street, so most likely in favor towards the 400 with RMVB/T-brake. Thanks guys.

 

I have had several going over 7,400 rpm over the years, and three going over 8,000 rpm. Use the Hi-rpm TransGo pump spring and use the "inner" spring from their Standard pump spring kit. Add the inner spring to the outer spring. This will keep line pressure up to well over 8,000 rpm. If it is a 13 vane setup, replace the 13 vane rotor with the 10 vane rotor. Leave the 13 vane slide in. This will have more volume and faster line pressure recovery on the shifts. If this is "drag racing only", find a good condition 7 vane rotor if you can, otherwise stay with the 10 vane rotor. Always use the steel rings from the TransGo pump kit. The standard kit and the Hi-rpm kit, steel rings are the same. You must use the TransGo 7-CS spring kit when going into the 8,000 rpm territory. Block off the checkball in the input drum under the 3-4 piston, and drill a .035" hole at the bottom of the 3-4 piston bore at the very outside edge just under where the piston seal touches the bottom of the bore. This will prevent centrifuging here (bringing on the 3-4 clutches) at the top of 1st and 2nd gear. This should give you an idea of what is needed to do this right.

 

Are you a trans builder? Do you specialize on the 4L60E? You must, cause I am lost and I have no idea of what you just posted,lol. Can you build me one?

 

Yes, PBA (Dana) is one of the experienced and respected 4L60E (and 700R4 and others) trans builders for the past 20+ years.
It is always greatly appreciated when he posts his knowledge and "secrets" here.
Despite being a fan of the 4L60E/4L65E/4L70E for cars even in the 500-650 HP range, I would recommend a 4L80E above 650HP and recommend that for you.
For one a top-level 4L60E will all the billet parts and the mentioned 6-pinion front planet is going to cost $5000 and still won't be as strong as a moderately build 4L80E.