SmokeyCheese1

iTrader: (1)

I picked up a 3000-3200 stall for my 69 Chevelle (3200lb car). Current cam is .585/.585 228/232 112LSA. 10.8:1 compression ration. Trans is 4L80E. Current gears are 3.32.

My thoughts are the car is going to be a turd off the line with that gearing correct (haven't driven it yet, still working out bugs with the trans)? Would 3.73 be a better choice there? I want to maintain cruisability while not being a complete lame duck leaving stop signs.

Ive done tons of reading of the subject and honestly, the material isn't really sticking with me.

98CayenneT/A

Yank Pt4000 with 3.73's will work good with that setup and that light of a vehicle

SmokeyCheese1

iTrader: (1)

4000 seems like an awful lot

MaroonMonsterLS1

Torque converter technology has come a long way in the last 10 years.

The old montra that a 4000 stall is gonna drive like its as loose as Stormy Daniels is just not true anymore.
It's not the 90's where you HAD to sacrifice efficiency to get stall.

With the current understanding of converter diameters, fin angles, stator blade angle and fin count, etc etc its possible to get a 4000 stall that drives pretty well.
Yes, it's going to be a little looser than a 3200...but its not going to feel like you're revving it to the moon just to get it rolling

Plus, with lockup...you will notice 0 difference at highway speeds

SmokeyCheese1

iTrader: (1)

Right on. Should I sell the 3200 I got a great deal on and get a 4k? What gears though?

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

I would contact the manufacturer of the converter or someone that services other manufacturers converters, such as ourselves, and talk to them about re-stalling that converter before you go trying to buy a new. It's normally the cheaper route.

98CayenneT/A

Try it with your current gears. If you don't like the way it drives then worry about going to a steeper gear

SmokeyCheese1

iTrader: (1)

That was kinda the plan but thought I would get your opinions first. I got a stupid deal on this 10" tci with billet front. I wouldnt be out much if buying new made sense.

I did more reading on stall, I still don't get how to calculate what's ideal.

98CayenneT/A

I would not run the junk, inefficient tci street fighter converter. I would contact FTI who posted above and get a quality converter. It will drive night and day better compared to the tci

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

DO NOT use that TCI 3000-3200 convertor.
A 3200 lb car is light compared to our 3800-4000 lb cars and since we run convertors with the stock gearings of 2.73,3.23,and 3.42(some A4s' put in 3.42s') and things are good. A GOOD stall(Yank CirceD)(can't comment on FTI not that there's anything bad about them) of about 3500-3600 should do very well with the 3.32s' and that cam. Being that the 4L80E has overdrive,3.73s' would not hurt you.

Ideal ??? What is your definition of ideal ?
For me,4.56s' are ideal. They're going back in in about a week,ran them for 4 years. Was still able to do 140mph and where the hell can use use/do 140 on a continuous basis. !st and 2nd gear was brutally vicious.

SmokeyCheese1

iTrader: (1)

What's bad about the tci? Get technical. I can handle it.

I can't handle "it's junk! Fti rules!" without some reason.

jhshnh

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

I guess you missed my post.
They're still using 80's technology to determine stall speed. And the build quality sucks.

SmokeyCheese1

iTrader: (1)

I didnt miss anything. Thats hardly a technical post.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

I posted this 2 months ago in a thread,
My setup is 3.23s' and stock engine(no mods,do much travelling and want the reliability of stock).
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

Well if you don't realize what 30 years of technology can change GOOD LUCK. You can google this and find TCI's assembly line process and FTI's custom process. Just two examples. Or you can buy a TCI see how loose it is, or get a B&M and see how it takes a ****, flat out breaks.
I'm not selling anything so I'll leave it to you to figure out. I'm not explaining to you what you don't understand.

SmokeyCheese1

iTrader: (1)

OK then. I thought that's what forums were for.

Fti, yank, circle-d, all good? How about transmission specialties? Any others since I'm going to spend more time googling

MaroonMonsterLS1

Jays may be a little grouchy at times, but he has a lot of valuable information so take it with a grain of salt and just learn what you can. Don't take anything to personally on this page.

To answer your question, read up to my previous post...TCI has got a bad rap for their lack of effiency based on the things I stated above...fin angles, stator blade angle and blade count, etc etc. They still use the same principles that were used a while ago rather than changing things up how places like FTI, YANK, Circle D, etc do it.

Since you're looking for a longer list:
FTI
Yank
Circle D
PTC
Pro Torque
Coan
Jakes Performance

That's most of the big names in the game right now
Smaller names (none of whom I would use unless you're willing to take a risk and report back with your success or failure):
Freakshow
Edge
Huges
Thor
ACC (AKA Boss Hog)

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

I looked at the 'transmission specialty site. 4L80E convertor 12" 2400-2700 just under $400. $400,you get what you pay for,NOT MUCH,not a performance convertor. As with so many before you on this site that 'cheaped out' and then regretted it,because they had to do it TWICE,so will you. You posted to get opinions/recommendations/help,yet you seem resistant to what we're telling you. I could pull up many threads referencing this.

bbond105

When buying a torque converter you need to look for a converter that has a billet cover. These converters are about $350 to $400 more than a converter that doesn’t have a billet cover. I had a TCI converter that only lasted for 2 months before the sprag or bearing inside the converter broke, destroying the converter and in the process dumped all of that metal into the trans requiring the trans to be rebuilt. Neither TCI nor Summit would warranty the broken converter much less help pay for the trans. I hope this helps with your decision.