Rebuilt 4l60e no OD or D
12-11-2018, 07:56 PM
#1
Rebuilt 4l60e no OD or D Hey i just helped a buddy do a complete rebuild on his 4l60e. We installed it and it will not move in OD or D. Has reverse, M1 and M2. Sometimes it will try and move with a lil rev up in OD.
So we pulled it and figured the forward sprag was bad. Checked it out and it looked good. We went ahead and replaced it with another one from another trans to be safe.
We also rechecked the input drum etc with the front pump attached. Everything checked out fine and no air leaks. We set the 3-4 pack at .035 with a 8 friction setup from alto.
We are kinda lost and dont know what else to check. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
So we pulled it and figured the forward sprag was bad. Checked it out and it looked good. We went ahead and replaced it with another one from another trans to be safe.
We also rechecked the input drum etc with the front pump attached. Everything checked out fine and no air leaks. We set the 3-4 pack at .035 with a 8 friction setup from alto.
We are kinda lost and dont know what else to check. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
12-12-2018, 07:19 AM
#4
TECH Junkie
What are you using for a stick? If its anything other than the stock tube that was with the vehichle...you need to verify fluid level. I doubt that's why you have no movement at all (especially if you get movement in M1 shifter position)...but still good to check anyway.
If you replaced input sprag, and installed it correctly (it can be installed backwards)...then it sounds like the next logical place to check is the low roller sprag. Its required for 1st gear. If it's not holding, then when you select M1, it applies the low/reverse clutches which take over the job of the low roller sprag.
2nd gear doesn't need the low roller, it just needs the forwards, input sprag, and band. (it also applies the overruns which can take the job of the input sprag)
If you want to check the input sprag, you can leave the shifter in OD and command 3rd with a scanner. If you have 3rd then the input sprag is OK. This will use only the input sprag without overrun's.
You should also do a pressure check just for peace of mind
If you replaced input sprag, and installed it correctly (it can be installed backwards)...then it sounds like the next logical place to check is the low roller sprag. Its required for 1st gear. If it's not holding, then when you select M1, it applies the low/reverse clutches which take over the job of the low roller sprag.
2nd gear doesn't need the low roller, it just needs the forwards, input sprag, and band. (it also applies the overruns which can take the job of the input sprag)
If you want to check the input sprag, you can leave the shifter in OD and command 3rd with a scanner. If you have 3rd then the input sprag is OK. This will use only the input sprag without overrun's.
You should also do a pressure check just for peace of mind
12-12-2018, 09:19 AM
#7
TECH Junkie
Yes, you need a manual.
Instead of starting in OD with 3rd commanded (it will be a total dog) I would suggest starting in M1, shifting to M2, then once you're going along, put the shifter in OD and command 3rd. If you have 3rd, then the input sprag should be ok.
I doubt the low roller is backwards. I don't think that's possible. It could be worn out or broken.
Instead of starting in OD with 3rd commanded (it will be a total dog) I would suggest starting in M1, shifting to M2, then once you're going along, put the shifter in OD and command 3rd. If you have 3rd, then the input sprag should be ok.
I doubt the low roller is backwards. I don't think that's possible. It could be worn out or broken.
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12-12-2018, 12:33 PM
#8
Ok thts what imma do. Ill take it for a drive and command 3rd and see what happins. Reverse, first, and second feel prefectly fine tho.
Is there any thing electrical tht could point to something like this? Maybe the pressure switch manifold? It did look a lil wierd. The flat plastic area had started to seperate on it.
I also tried pulling codes but there were none. I had to unhook battery for trans install and it cleared ecu.
Is there any thing electrical tht could point to something like this? Maybe the pressure switch manifold? It did look a lil wierd. The flat plastic area had started to seperate on it.
I also tried pulling codes but there were none. I had to unhook battery for trans install and it cleared ecu.
12-12-2018, 06:56 PM
#9
Ok. My dam computer went dead on me at the shop. Didnt have a chance to try 3rd command. However, it did try and move a few times in 3rd. It would move and thin kinda slip and stop pulling. It still will not budge in OD. I also drove it and it neutraled out going into 3rd.
my buddy decided to just replace it with a used unit. The used unit has a slide bump into 2nd. Were thinkin if we add a corvette servo it should cure this. Thoughts??
We are still gonna tear into the rebuilt trans and try and figure the problem out. He just doesnt have time to keep messin with it and needed his truck driving.
my buddy decided to just replace it with a used unit. The used unit has a slide bump into 2nd. Were thinkin if we add a corvette servo it should cure this. Thoughts??
We are still gonna tear into the rebuilt trans and try and figure the problem out. He just doesnt have time to keep messin with it and needed his truck driving.
12-19-2018, 10:14 AM
#12
1) Did you install the green oring inside the aluminum input drum?
2) did you disassemble the valve body? if so, you could have installed a valve backwards.
3) did you install the filter? ive seen this happen
4) did you forget to tighten the block off plate on the case at the rear of the valve body? has three screws
5) did you install the 4th servo piston correctly?
6) are you 100% positive you used the correct valve body gaskets? they will have the same letter or marking. A "c" or a "ca" and "v" or "vb"
they must match.
2) did you disassemble the valve body? if so, you could have installed a valve backwards.
3) did you install the filter? ive seen this happen
4) did you forget to tighten the block off plate on the case at the rear of the valve body? has three screws
5) did you install the 4th servo piston correctly?
6) are you 100% positive you used the correct valve body gaskets? they will have the same letter or marking. A "c" or a "ca" and "v" or "vb"
they must match.
12-24-2018, 10:39 PM
#15
I will. Just been tied up at the shop to be able to mess with it. Maybe a few days after christmas.
Imma go completely back into it using the manual step by step. Im interested in knowing what the issue was. Leaning toward something stupid simple! Lol.
Imma go completely back into it using the manual step by step. Im interested in knowing what the issue was. Leaning toward something stupid simple! Lol.
01-02-2019, 07:06 PM
#16
Tore trans bavk down today and looked it over pretty good.
Everything as far as internals looked good. All sprags were in the correct order and rotation. All clutche packs looked good. Everything was assembled tht same as the manual showed.
I also pulled valve body and looked it over. All valves were in correct order. All solenoids ohmed out to spec. Had all check ***** in correct location etc.
Stil have a few things to look over. The 2nd/4th servo assembly. And imma pull the valves out of the front pump and inspect. But other than all this i cant see anything wrong with this trans. It has me puzzled. Ive done a few th350/400 without issues. These 4l60e are a another breed lol.
Everything as far as internals looked good. All sprags were in the correct order and rotation. All clutche packs looked good. Everything was assembled tht same as the manual showed.
I also pulled valve body and looked it over. All valves were in correct order. All solenoids ohmed out to spec. Had all check ***** in correct location etc.
Stil have a few things to look over. The 2nd/4th servo assembly. And imma pull the valves out of the front pump and inspect. But other than all this i cant see anything wrong with this trans. It has me puzzled. Ive done a few th350/400 without issues. These 4l60e are a another breed lol.
01-03-2019, 07:33 AM
#17
TECH Junkie
Take the valve body to a trans shop...or check out my vacuum testing thread...if you're 100% confident everything mechanically is OK...then hydraulics are the only next step.
Pay close attention to the AFL circuit and it's valve.
Pay close attention to the AFL circuit and it's valve.