I have read a lot about about the benefits of the transgo HD2 shift kit in the 4L60e and installing one is a good learning curve for a beginner who wants to rebuild there own transmissions.
I have been looking online (amazon, e-bay, ect) and see people are calling it HD2 shift kit, reprogramming kit, Stage 2 kit, hi performance kit and so on and some seem to have more parts included than others. Is it best to buy the one that includes the boost valve, What is the part number of the best one that I should be looking for. Im in New Zealand so cant just got to local supplier and ask for one, and those that will get it in for me want the earth for it.
2001 4L60e behind a LS1 from a Holden Commodore
Thanks.

 

The 4l60e-hd2 is the trans go part number.

Some tips...
-don't use any shims in the 1-2 accumulator
-don't do anything to the reverse input piston
-install the high rev springs (they will be in their own box with part number 7CS) but make sure to alternate them. What I mean is one with the taper "up" then the next "down". They are not ground flat from transgo so if you install them all the same way, they have a good chance of "laying over" and you'll have a real bad time.
-The recommended drill sizes are a joke. Give more details on the setup...weight, rpm, hp, torque converter (diameter and stall rating)...and I can help with drill sizes
-I recommend you use some sonnax goodies in the VB to fix some leaks that 95% of all 4l60e have...you want the o-ring end plugs (77964-08K) and the reverse abuse bore plug (77754-21). you don't need the whole reverse abuse valve...just the bore plug is OK.
-Also add the Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve. #77754-41 Anytime you race, race in D3...this will apply the overrun clutches to help support the input sprag.
-Transgo sells aluminum accumulator pistons...USE THEM. Don't reuse the plastic pistons.
-While you have the Valve Body off, use a punch to "re seat" the 3rd accumulator check ball capsule. This is easy and there are some youtube videos showing you how to change/install a new one...you don't need to remove and install...just follow the install instructions and re-seat the ball.
-discard the #6 check ball. http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...NTMyOQ==/?ref=

 

Thanks MaroonMonsterL
weight is 3200 lbs 3.55 diff gears 25" tall tyres 100k miles on stock converter with standard stall good trans cooler fitted, standard LS1 rpm factory tune but will keep rev limit at 6300 and keeping close to standard shift points for longevity of trans, mainly used for spirited weekend driving and odd track and drag day. Dont want to hard a shift for 1-2 so using hd2 accumulator spring set-up and 0.082" size hole in separator plate recommended by Dana in another post I read, already bought corvette servo, aluminum accumulator piston, 5 pinion planetary gear sets raybestos z-pack (which I have since read mixed opinions on) all waiting to go in when I'm confident enough to rebuild my trans, I want to add sonnax parts to this list as I have an engine from another car that is 370hp at the wheels running with long tube headers and Kelford B-12 cam which will go in at a later date.
Good to know about springs, what will leaving #6 check ball out do.
Thanks

 

Leaving out #6 check ball will give more firm/rapid overrun clutch apply and supply them with more fluid. It's to help the input sprag as much as possible.

I would leave out the z pak...here's the setup I recommend. You can use either Borg Warner HE clutches or raybestos GPZ clutches. Your choice.
.223 apply
8x.065 clutch
7x.077 steel
.157 pressure
.092 snap

If you're rebuilding the trans, read the thread just recently posted on pressing out the input shaft and resealing it. It's a very good idea to do on any 4l60e ever.
I would also add a sunshell. A factory updated hardened shell will be plenty good.

As for drill size, follow transgo instructions on everything, except
Drill the 2-3 shift hole to .101
Drill the 3-4 shift hole (hole immediately "south" of the 1-2 hole in the TransGo instructions) to .100 (larger is OK if making WOT 4th gear shifts)
Drill the band release hole (furthest "north" hole shown to drill in the instructions) to .082

 

Ok will do all of that, I have already set up the z pack in the drum so will run it while I buy more parts, I have a spare trans that also needs a rebuild so will run the BW clutch set-up in that trans.
can I press out and refit the input shaft with the drum assembled or is it best to strip everything out first. I haven't fitted Teflon seals on the input shaft yet, also which side does shaft press out from I haven't found any videos showing it done on YouTube yet.

 

Input drum needs to be empty.
Press shaft out from inside of drum. Put socket on shaft where you see 3 check ***** in this picture

 

ok thanks I will strip it all out, the more I work on it the more familiar I will get with parts and set up.

 

Be sure to support the backside of the input drum in the center where the splines are when pressing the shaft out and back in again. I use a piece of pipe just a little bigger than the shaft and side over the shaft to support the drum when pressing the shaft out. When pressing the shaft back in support the drum in the center where the splines are. If not supported when pressing the shaft in and out the drum may crack.

 

im sure this ? has been asked before but what are the pros & cons of adding a shift kit? does it result in lower ET's? im afraid of chirping the tires at every stoplight if i add one. thanks!

 

neck breaking shifts are usually caused by people drilling out the feed holes to insane sizes in the separator plate.

 

The shifts can be tailored to your liking by how many, if any shims are placed in the 1-2 accumulator, and feed hole sizes. The boost valve is in my opinion the most important part of the kit. If you set up the shift kit for very hard shifts this will create more stress on hard parts and could lead to breakage. If you want to firm up shifts try installing a Sonnax .490 boost valve first before installing a shift kit. The boost valve can be installed my just dropping the pan and filter, no need to remove the valve body like you would if installing a full shift kit. The higher line pressure that you will get from the boost valve will increase the holding ability of all the clutches, which should add to the life of the transmission and give you a firmer shift.