Debris in rebuilt transmission
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Debris in rebuilt transmission I rebuilt my transmission and after I tested it there was clutch material in the oil. I pulled it out and am now in the process of cleaning it and putting it back together.
What should I do about the tc?
There was enough material in the oil to make lines on the magnet.
Do i need to have it cut open and cleaned or is there another option?
What should I do about the tc?
There was enough material in the oil to make lines on the magnet.
Do i need to have it cut open and cleaned or is there another option?
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 401
Likes: 21
From: Houston
I'm no transmission expert but if it was mine I'd definitely have the converter cleaned (and maybe restalled) as well as the cooler and lines. Maybe a new cooler. I junked my old cooler and lines when the old 4L60E died.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I just dropped the tc off to get cleaned out and it ended up only being $60 anyway. I bought the Tru-Cool - Max LPD47391 cooler and was planning on running it in line with the old one. Should I just junk the old one and only use this? Will the aftermarket cooler alone support light towing and mountain driving?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
A $60 cleaning might be enough to get most of the clutch material out of a converter, but if a hard-part failure creates metal debris, the converter needs to be opened, disassembled for a thorough cleaning, welded back and re-balanced. This typically costs $150-$200. At that price a stock converter is best replaced, hopefully with something better. Of course if the converter is opened, it can also be re-stalled as gesto mentioned.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
We have had 10+ threads and 200+ posts on the question of bypassing the stock cooler. There is no consensus, other than definitely running the aftermarket one after the stock one in case you decide to run both.
In cold climates, running both might have the advantage of warm the trans up quicker, but I suspect few people now drive their Gen 4 in winter conditions.
One concern with running both is that the stock radiator in a Gen 4 is 20+ years old and there have been a few reports of the trans cooler springing a leak causing radiator fluid filling the trans and destroying it.
In warmer climates, while not a consensus, the majority opinion is to only use the aftermarket cooler.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Wow, you got a great deal then for $60.
We have had 10+ threads and 200+ posts on the question of bypassing the stock cooler. There is no consensus, other than definitely running the aftermarket one after the stock one in case you decide to run both.
In cold climates, running both might have the advantage of warm the trans up quicker, but I suspect few people now drive their Gen 4 in winter conditions.
One concern with running both is that the stock radiator in a Gen 4 is 20+ years old and there have been a few reports of the trans cooler springing a leak causing radiator fluid filling the trans and destroying it.
In warmer climates, while not a consensus, the majority opinion is to only use the aftermarket cooler.
We have had 10+ threads and 200+ posts on the question of bypassing the stock cooler. There is no consensus, other than definitely running the aftermarket one after the stock one in case you decide to run both.
In cold climates, running both might have the advantage of warm the trans up quicker, but I suspect few people now drive their Gen 4 in winter conditions.
One concern with running both is that the stock radiator in a Gen 4 is 20+ years old and there have been a few reports of the trans cooler springing a leak causing radiator fluid filling the trans and destroying it.
In warmer climates, while not a consensus, the majority opinion is to only use the aftermarket cooler.
Last edited by DomQ; Feb 17, 2019 at 10:21 PM.
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