I tried to search but I didn't find what i was looking for so i have 2 questions. First off how many Rpms from commanded shift to finished shift is normal in a fairly stock 4l60e? Also if anyone has 60ft times for a trailblazer converter that would be awesome just let me know the vehicle and setup used with the converter. This is all done behind a 2001 rcsb if it matters

 

Shifts are controlled by 2 things: Speed and RPM. For WOT shifts, both of those have to be met. Mostly, we set the MPH a little lower and let the RPM be the "trigger" since MPH can vary with gears and so forth. At least that's how I do it. It takes a few milliseconds to complete the shift, which varies, based of trans line pressures. Can be as high as 200 RPM before the shift is "complete," again based on factors like line pressure and TCC slip.

I don't know what the times would be for a stock trail blazer TCC, but really you could just put in a proper stall, in the 3000-3400 range for a stock trans. This is the best guaranteed way to see better a better launch thus better 60' times. Best bang for your buck. Check out Yank converters, that's what I usually go with in my builds, but there are plenty of options out there. A good stall pays dividends and is worth the $$$.

 

Appreciate the response. When i try and bump up my shift points it's take about 300rpm sometimes more to complete the 1-2 shift. As far as tge converter the truck doesn't have one and it costs me 100$ installed for the TB converter so I'd say that 100$ is better than a stock converter.

 

$100 installed. Yea...you're getting a used converter for sure...and most likely a shitty/shady mechanic

and what do you mean it takes 300 rpm?
As in, the shift is commanded at 5800 but it's not actually in the next gear till 6100?

Or you're guessing that by the seat of your pants it "slips" for 300 rpm?

 

I'm not seeing the logic of using a USED TCC, and a stock one at that. I once put in a Yank 6 bolt with an unknown stall from a good friend that owned a race shop. He was rebuilding my trans anyway and had it laying around. I only had a week to get the car back together before going back overseas so I went with that, plus he threw it in free with the build. Turns out it was a 4k stall, and worked fine. But going for a used STOCK converter makes no sense AT ALL.

Good question though, how do you KNOW it is slipping 300 RPM? That's a LOT between shifts. Just saying. Do you have this hooked to a scanner like HP Tuners or EFI Live? Normally it's around 100 or so. Nothings perfect and it takes the solenoids some time to actuate, but damn man, 300? Really?

 

$100 installed for a trailblazer converter? most people wont even remove and reinstall a trans for under $200. If it sounds too good to be true........its too good to be true.

next post.

"I had a mechanic install a trailblazer convertor and I can't tell any difference"

Do yourself a favor. Just give me the 100 bucks and call it a day. You'll save yourself money and headache from this future/potential fiasco your about to get yourself involved in. And you have the same performance result. No way no how someone is doing that and including the converter for 100 bucks.

 

Lol, maybe we could split the money. I think you're right about the next post too.

 

lololol

 

Yes I datalog with hp tuners. As far as the converter my girlfriends dads trailblazer needed shift solenoids and he went ahead and rebuilt the trans just cause and got a new converter but there was nothing wrong with the one in it so he gave it to me (along with the old trans). My buddy works at chevy and were gonna do it after work for a 100$ and a 30 pack. I had a ss3600 in my trans am I know not to cheap out on converters but I know the history of the converter so it's worth the risk to me I simply asked if anyone had 60ft numbers from using it. But the main issue is it seems when I try to command a 6300 shift (1-2) it would hit my limiter (6600) time to time so I dataloged it and almost every shift it takes almost 300rpm which seemed high I just wanted to ask.

 

Also that only applies to my 1-2 shift. My 2-3 shift takes maybe 50-100 rpm consistently.

 

Is it hitting both the triggers? Is it over the MPH setting? That's usually the problem. Also, make your normal tables match the WOT shift settings at 100. I've had the PCM "get confused" in the past, so setting the numbers the same doesn't hurt anything.

 

Yes it's hitting both triggers and my tables are the same. I use rpm as my last trigger to initiate the shift.

 

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...r-60ft-555008/

I guess you don't want any more help from the LS1 tech Jokers?

 

Haha. Well okay then. I will wear that as a badge of honor I suppose.

OP, try bumping up your line pressure in the WOT area on the force motor table. Make the number slightly lower in the last few columns. It's an inverted table. Less current = more pressure. Be real careful not to go too far, this can and will break your trans if you set it too high. I highly recommend a line pressure gauge when messing with this stuff. Don't exceed 200 PSI ever on the TCC. That will smoke your crank in a hurry.

Good luck bud. Joker out.

 

O ****. **** just got real. Lol. Yea, let’s help this guy.

 

He can't say I wasn't helpful lol. But yeah, shots fired.

 

I'm literally laughing my *** off man. But this right here is more what I was looking for! Thank you alot for this info I did not know that table was inverted I'll try to make some small adjustments then. As far as why I posted there is because I'm sure more truck guys have ran a TB converter and I really get sick of reading and even being told "just do blah blah blah instead" instead of helping answer the questions, but also I understand that telling somebody their idea is not the best is sometimes the best advice. Anyhow hope no jokers out there are butt hurt lol

 

Post #2 in that thread is a clown lol.

Nice converters are recommended because they equal the best results.
This site is littered with disappointing times due to cheap inefficient shitty converters.
I guess it's frowned upon to do things the right way over here.

Op there is zero chance of you getting that thing into the 12's with that converter unless you boost it and that's still iffy. If staying n/a that converter WILL NOT be optimal for the amount of cam you would need.

This is a car site, not many of us, not even a stock Ls1 lives in the 2800-4500 rpm range as far as you looking for time on that converter. I run a yank pt4400 and could not imagine how dog **** slow my car would be with that converter in my setup. You want to run 12's, figure out the setup first then match the converter to the setup.

 

Appreciate your input but this thread is not about track times much less specifically 12s. I did ask about 60fts out of curiosity because I couldn't find any though. That s a badass converter my next auto car (if I get another) will have a PT for sure. The point on the TB converter is because the truck doesn't have one at all and it's super budget just to throw something in it. Plus I'll most likely 80e swap it if I have trans issues so the point of be buying a big dollar converter just isn't there.

 

I got the 12's mixed up from another thread. My fault there.