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tuning for rebuilt w/shift kit &stall 4l65e

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Old 07-08-2019, 01:16 AM
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P1870 will trigger if the 'slip speed' stays above a certain range after the computer commands lockup. My understanding is that if the TPS was having issues, the computer would not command lockup. Therefore, you would not have the P1870 code. I think what you should do is work out if you actually have lockup. Go for a drive with a decent scan tool and command lockup with it, and see if you can feel the RPM drop.

If you have lockup but a high slip speed, then the actual gear is slipping which would be more serious mistake. If you just have no lockup, then maybe its an easy fix in the valve body without having to pull the trans again.

I have what sounds like an identical problem at the moment. I am tearing down the trans for the second time - I have a sneaky suspicion that the cause for me is the torque converter sold was highish stall, but further research is needed.

I hope you can post back your progress, incase it helps me out

Also, PLEASE use some paragraphs, was very difficult to read your posts.
Old 07-09-2019, 03:58 PM
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I do apologize for my long posts. Honestly, I am trying to do better, make them more understandable and easier to read. I hope anyway.
My latest developments. My patients are thin, feel like this is a nightmare that just won't end. I blame no one but myself. Many possibilities have been introduced as to what the real problem is. Starting over has been helpful in learning for sure, yet still no answers. Some things in which I have found out are too embarrassing to mention. One example is having to do with HP Tuners. Many times I tried to search out a confirmation that the DTC codes HP tuners show in the editor, are in fact DTC codes for my vehicle? I thought they were for my vehicle at the beginning of this long story, but come to find out they are not! The DTC codes we are concerned about that our own vehicles have are listed in the scanner after we connect our vehicles. The editor DTC's show as a guide or something like that from what I read. So what I am saying is that my transmission may not have even had a p1870. After I re-install the stock tune I will try to read DTC codes again, after monitors set if possible, seeing as the truck won't move. I have been using my tech 2 to check tcc lockup and such, and have come to believe the root of my problem is not a blown transmission. MY cause just may be as simple as the range selector switch also known as the neutral safety switch. Yes, I know that I have hoped that many things I have tried would be the answer? But this is a real possibility, especially because when I took it off it seemed to be in the 3rd gear position and slipping on the shaft. What has led me to this?
Basically, my efforts right now are in finding out why my PCM is commanding 3rd gear when it should be commanding 1st gear. I have messed with it and thought my trans was fixed, but soon it drops back to commanding 3rd gear when it shouldn't be. Thus the range selector switch and/or the bracket/ cable/ manual shift lever. I had installed a new range selector/neutral safety switch. I pulled it off yesterday and am installing the old one back on hopefully today. I decided to do this kind of checking before I go and pull the Transmission again. I would be a bigger idiot than I already am if I don't try everything before removing the trans.again. CyA I will keep updating no matter what the outcome unless my truck kills me first(or my woman) before I have the chance.
Old 07-09-2019, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by EErock
I do apologize for my long posts. Honestly, I am trying to do better, make them more understandable and easier to read. I hope anyway.
My latest developments. My patients are thin, feel like this is a nightmare that just won't end. I blame no one but myself. Many possibilities have been introduced as to what the real problem is. Starting over has been helpful in learning for sure, yet still no answers. Some things in which I have found out are too embarrassing to mention. One example is having to do with HP Tuners. Many times I tried to search out a confirmation that the DTC codes HP tuners show in the editor, are in fact DTC codes for my vehicle? I thought they were for my vehicle at the beginning of this long story, but come to find out they are not! The DTC codes we are concerned about that our own vehicles have are listed in the scanner after we connect our vehicles. The editor DTC's show as a guide or something like that from what I read. So what I am saying is that my transmission may not have even had a p1870. After I re-install the stock tune I will try to read DTC codes again, after monitors set if possible, seeing as the truck won't move. I have been using my tech 2 to check tcc lockup and such, and have come to believe the root of my problem is not a blown transmission. MY cause just may be as simple as the range selector switch also known as the neutral safety switch. Yes, I know that I have hoped that many things I have tried would be the answer? But this is a real possibility, especially because when I took it off it seemed to be in the 3rd gear position and slipping on the shaft. What has led me to this?
Basically, my efforts right now are in finding out why my PCM is commanding 3rd gear when it should be commanding 1st gear. I have messed with it and thought my trans was fixed, but soon it drops back to commanding 3rd gear when it shouldn't be. Thus the range selector switch and/or the bracket/ cable/ manual shift lever. I had installed a new range selector/neutral safety switch. I pulled it off yesterday and am installing the old one back on hopefully today. I decided to do this kind of checking before I go and pull the Transmission again. I would be a bigger idiot than I already am if I don't try everything before removing the trans.again. CyA I will keep updating no matter what the outcome unless my truck kills me first(or my woman) before I have the chance.

I read the first short paragraph, then looked at number two paragraph (novel?) and almost fell out my chair. From laughing. So hard.

Im wondering if eerock and kingtal0n are actually the same person. Or brothers. Or related. They are both long winded. Lolololololololol.
Old 07-10-2019, 09:09 AM
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The reason I usually do not post anything anywhere is that I don't like to admit, my own mistakes. Unfortunately, these days I have a new problem and that is Remembering. This is why I am having a difficult time with this. I have forgotten what I have and have not done and when. Never had that problem before. The reason I have posted anything at all is I wanted to get some help and fix the problem. Give someone else information that maybe they can relate too. I wanted to follow through with an answer to the problems I have encountered, not to act like I know it all! No more long posts. No more admitting mistakes. If I had followed the advice of many then I would have spent money on another transmission at the very start. I will figure it out, just not sure anyone would care? Glad I have made you laugh. That helps so much with fixing my ride and makes me want to hurry and post again. (NOT) I laugh at myself, even call myself an idiot because I realize my mistakes and am trying to learn from them. CyA
Old 07-10-2019, 06:37 PM
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must be a troll
Old 07-10-2019, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by EErock
The reason I usually do not post anything anywhere is that I don't like to admit, my own mistakes. Unfortunately, these days I have a new problem and that is Remembering. This is why I am having a difficult time with this. I have forgotten what I have and have not done and when. Never had that problem before. The reason I have posted anything at all is I wanted to get some help and fix the problem. Give someone else information that maybe they can relate too. I wanted to follow through with an answer to the problems I have encountered, not to act like I know it all! No more long posts. No more admitting mistakes. If I had followed the advice of many then I would have spent money on another transmission at the very start. I will figure it out, just not sure anyone would care? Glad I have made you laugh. That helps so much with fixing my ride and makes me want to hurry and post again. (NOT) I laugh at myself, even call myself an idiot because I realize my mistakes and am trying to learn from them. CyA
I like to be helpful. I try any chance I get. But when reading the posts gives me a headache (I’m reading, well trying to anyways, this on a phone). Most people these days probably are also, so when you have extremely long run on sentences, a small novel and no punctuation.....it’s really hard to follow. I want to help, I do, but man....help me to help you. Get to the point. Leave out the unnecessary bits, just make it as short as possible. Otherwise your much less likely to get the help you seek. I’m just shooting straight with you. If it hurts your feelings, so be it. I’m just calling a spade a spade. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to make you realize that’s your posts were extremely too long. I’ll admit, it didn’t read half of it because I lost interest quickly. Maybe the reason you weren’t getting much help in your truck forum is the same reason. Maybe the guys other there got tired of reading long, drawn out posts? Just a thought. Also, think about it this way, if your cut your typing time down, you’ll have more time to sort out your problem.
Old 07-10-2019, 06:53 PM
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I have not read any of this thread...

Can someone sum it all up for me, so I can try and help.

Thank you :-)
Old 07-10-2019, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by vorteciroc
I have not read any of this thread...

Can someone sum it all up for me, so I can try and help.

Thank you :-)
kfxguy will lol
Old 07-10-2019, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by EErock
I do apologize for my long posts.
LS1tech one
sentence or two if you go
over two its hell

LS haiku
Old 07-10-2019, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 98cayennet/a
kfxguy will lol
haaaaaa! Haa!
Old 07-10-2019, 11:56 PM
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To Anyone who feels the need to talk smack
NO. I am definitely not trying to troll. I will stick to the topic from now on. I'm not trying to provoke anyone, in fact, I'd say you are trying to provoke me. No need for you to try to read anything I have written, I could care less. Ha and I thought this site was different, why I posted here. My mistake. Hell, I could have spent my time doing something else instead of posting anything. Was just telling my story. I'm sorry I did. Some guys on here are kool, some are ignorant *** wipes. Ignorant because you think it's wise to read someone else's post, just so you can take the time and the spotlight to complain about it?! You won't ever see me replying to a post that I didn't need to read in the first place and then act like a jerk and complain about it! Wow, thanks for your 2 cents!! That helps nothing at all! Now if you will excuse yourselves I have other things to do. And just to think that this post is because the troll that I am not, but you have kind of proven yourself to be. You are the reason for this post. CyA I'll be back for sure now!
Old 07-11-2019, 08:31 AM
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The admins here don't care about the constant trolling from pseudo-legit members

I tried to warn them about it, even gave them a way to help put a stop to it. But I was punished for trying to help control the ignorant spam. Can you believe that?
This is how they want the forum. more entertainment based I guess, name calling and making-fun-of kind of attitudes
No serious business on ls1tech, that is the message

It's as if they are purposefully scaring off new members and insulting existing ones, I am curious to note the long-term outcome of this malignant leadership

Some of the mods are good and sympathetic but because of peer pressure and the admin's current mindset there is little any mod can do.
Old 07-11-2019, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
I like to be helpful. I try any chance I get. But when reading the posts gives me a headache (I’m reading, well trying to anyways, this on a phone). Most people these days probably are also, so when you have extremely long run on sentences, a small novel and no punctuation.....it’s really hard to follow. I want to help, I do, but man....help me to help you. Get to the point. Leave out the unnecessary bits, just make it as short as possible. Otherwise your much less likely to get the help you seek. I’m just shooting straight with you. If it hurts your feelings, so be it. I’m just calling a spade a spade. Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to make you realize that’s your posts were extremely too long. I’ll admit, it didn’t read half of it because I lost interest quickly. Maybe the reason you weren’t getting much help in your truck forum is the same reason. Maybe the guys other there got tired of reading long, drawn out posts? Just a thought. Also, think about it this way, if your cut your typing time down, you’ll have more time to sort out your problem.
No you didnt hurt my feelings. I totally understand and you are right. I am trying to keep them shorter, just so much going on that, for whatever the reasons, I feel need explaining sometimes. BTW I hated English class in high school. haha = bad punctuation etc. Your thoughts are right. Thank you .
Old 07-11-2019, 05:25 PM
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Update as of July 11, 2019. Followed up on what seemed to be a commanded gear problem. Put the original reverse neutral safety switch back on and adjusted my gear range selector. Commanded gear is working, although not positive it's working correctly, but it is working. Goes to 3rd at key off, at startup drops to 1st. I had thought it was starting in 3rd and remaining in 3rd, thus no movement except the first minute or two. Also, just to double check, I drained the trans fluid. It is darker this time but no burn smell plus NO pieces of anything, nothing. Now there is a noise a vibration/rattle type noise after I first start the truck, then it seems to go away. Maybe the torque converter. I will check with tech2 or HP tuners. In my next post, I will explain exactly what my truck is doing as far as movement/ no movement, and any possible DTC codes. CyA
Old 07-11-2019, 05:40 PM
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This is difficult not to explain a before picture. A newly rebuilt transmission is installed. Upper end of motor upgraded with cam, etc. It was after the motor was done, then the install of a newly rebuilt transmission. It drove at first but something was not right. The current symptoms are at cold startup I have all my gears for about 2 minutes. I can drive the truck like normal for only a few minutes max. Then, suddenly I have more and more slip till I am not moving anywhere, only revving the motor. This happens gradually withing just a drive around a small block.By the time I am back at my house, I have to coast in and can't make it up the driveway until I turn it off again and wait maybe 10 minutes or so and then although it is still slipping, I have enough grab to make it up the driveway into the garage. I once again have the p0300 code. I thought was because of cam upgrade but not so sure seeing as only code? I know this code can affect the transmission. Hope that is specific and short enough? CyA
Old 07-11-2019, 06:52 PM
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Lets start really simply.

Please go and take some line pressure readings for us and we can start down a diagnostic trouble tree for you.

Purchase or rent a 0 to 300 PSI gauge with a hose end that has fittings for the 1/8 NPT port on the driver side of the case just rear of the bell-housing.

Have someone assist you. you will have to be next to the vehicle on the ground (NOT UNDER THE VEHICLE!!!) to view the gauge.
Your helper will have to operate the gear selector and throttle.

Take a pressure reading in each position of the gear selector with the throttle holding engine speed at 1,000 RPM.
Obviously hold the brake pedal and parking brake for the gear selections that will move the vehicle.

If you have or can obtain access to a diagnostic scan tool...
Then you may be able to give us a better look at line pressure via changing the amperage to the pressure control solenoid.
Let us know if you can.

Report back once you have done this.
Please only post the test results and any other important information.
Old 07-12-2019, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vorteciroc
Lets start really simply.

Please go and take some line pressure readings for us and we can start down a diagnostic trouble tree for you.

Purchase or rent a 0 to 300 PSI gauge with a hose end that has fittings for the 1/8 NPT port on the driver side of the case just rear of the bell-housing.

Have someone assist you. you will have to be next to the vehicle on the ground (NOT UNDER THE VEHICLE!!!) to view the gauge.
Your helper will have to operate the gear selector and throttle.

Take a pressure reading in each position of the gear selector with the throttle holding engine speed at 1,000 RPM.
Obviously hold the brake pedal and parking brake for the gear selections that will move the vehicle.

If you have or can obtain access to a diagnostic scan tool...
Then you may be able to give us a better look at line pressure via changing the amperage to the pressure control solenoid.
Let us know if you can.

Report back once you have done this.
Please only post the test results and any other important information.
Thank you. I will do exactly as you say, but may not be able to check the pressure till early next week. I will post the outcome as soon as I do as you suggest. Thanks very much .
Old 07-15-2019, 04:44 PM
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Default following up with info

Originally Posted by vorteciroc
Lets start really simply.

Please go and take some line pressure readings for us and we can start down a diagnostic trouble tree for you.

Purchase or rent a 0 to 300 PSI gauge with a hose end that has fittings for the 1/8 NPT port on the driver side of the case just rear of the bell-housing.

Have someone assist you. you will have to be next to the vehicle on the ground (NOT UNDER THE VEHICLE!!!) to view the gauge.
Your helper will have to operate the gear selector and throttle.

Take a pressure reading in each position of the gear selector with the throttle holding engine speed at 1,000 RPM.
Obviously hold the brake pedal and parking brake for the gear selections that will move the vehicle.

If you have or can obtain access to a diagnostic scan tool...
Then you may be able to give us a better look at line pressure via changing the amperage to the pressure control solenoid.
Let us know if you can.

Report back once you have done this.
Please only post the test results and any other important information.

Hi. Connected pressure gauge to the vehicle, started it up and kept idle approx. 1000 rpm. Cold startup reading 60 psi: Shift into reverse = immediate drop to 15 psi. Shift to neutral back to 60 psi. Shift to Drive,L3,L2,L1 = 15 psi. Shift back to park= 15psi. Tech 2 Scan tool PC sol ref current did change and PC sol actual current did not change when applying amperage. The truck has a P0300 which I am diagnosing as we also diagnose this transmission. ALSO is a sort of gear winding sound in the bell housing area per my stethoscope..I mean I used it to find the epicenter of the noise basically at the converter. Thanks for any help and for already helping.
Old 07-16-2019, 01:22 AM
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You have practically NO oil pressure...

Time for the transmission to come out and inspect the oil pump and Torque converter.
Old 07-16-2019, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by vorteciroc
You have practically NO oil pressure...

Time for the transmission to come out and inspect the oil pump and Torque converter.
Guess that's what I get for buying a Monster transmission? I will pull the transmission out yet again. Would both the pump and Torque converter make the same type of noise? Like a spinning clicking type noise at the bell housing? I will check into testing the torque converter 1st. Also, from what I understand if there is vibration, that could cause the P0300 code, do you agree? Thank you for your feedback. Maybe a few days before I can accomplish pulling the trans., but I will update as soon as I know anything. Thanks again!


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