05 trans, does it have an ISS?
05 trans, does it have an ISS? Hi all, I just bought an 05 Silverado and the trans died the next day. Just my luck. For the time being I might swap in a used one. There's a 99 available but I read on here that some 05's have an ISS that I would need to match. How do I determine if mine has that? I do have HP tuners if I can scan something for it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Look at trans near bellhousing for a input speed sensor pigtial. Similar to a 80e setup.
I wanna say they started the iss on the 60e in 2007. So u should be ok using an older trans.
I wanna say they started the iss on the 60e in 2007. So u should be ok using an older trans.
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From: Roxana, IL
Unlike the 4L80E, If a 4L60E has an ISS it is internal. 2005 in my experience does not have ISS. TransGo tech states that the wiring is the same from 1996-2006. you can scan it for an ISS signal.
If you want to go the extra step, you will need go 1 of 3 ways to fully identify ISS or non ISS.
1) need to identify the amount of pins in the connector 13 pins for non ISS and 15 pins for ISS
2) case connector on 96-2006 is usually grey outside and green inside. The ISS version has either a black outside or a white outside and a brown inside.
3) pull the pan and look for 2 wires that go up behind the pump
personally I would count the pins
If you want to go the extra step, you will need go 1 of 3 ways to fully identify ISS or non ISS.
1) need to identify the amount of pins in the connector 13 pins for non ISS and 15 pins for ISS
2) case connector on 96-2006 is usually grey outside and green inside. The ISS version has either a black outside or a white outside and a brown inside.
3) pull the pan and look for 2 wires that go up behind the pump
personally I would count the pins
Last edited by Tranzman; Oct 7, 2019 at 10:41 PM. Reason: additional content
So i must be looking at the wrong connector. I’m on the neutral safety switch connector, it’s 10 pins.
Unlike the 4L80E, If a 4L60E has an ISS it is internal. 2005 in my experience does not have ISS. TransGo tech states that the wiring is the same from 1996-2006. you can scan it for an ISS signal.
If you want to go the extra step, you will need go 1 of 3 ways to fully identify ISS or non ISS.
1) need to identify the amount of pins in the connector 13 pins for non ISS and 15 pins for ISS
2) case connector on 96-2006 is usually grey outside and green inside. The ISS version has either a black outside or a white outside and a brown inside.
3) pull the pan and look for 2 wires that go up behind the pump
personally I would count the pins
If you want to go the extra step, you will need go 1 of 3 ways to fully identify ISS or non ISS.
1) need to identify the amount of pins in the connector 13 pins for non ISS and 15 pins for ISS
2) case connector on 96-2006 is usually grey outside and green inside. The ISS version has either a black outside or a white outside and a brown inside.
3) pull the pan and look for 2 wires that go up behind the pump
personally I would count the pins
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
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From: Roxana, IL
1) Do you want to just have someone else do the whole job, $2100-$2500?
2) remove and replace it yourself with a quality re-manufactured unit, $1600-$1800
3) remove and replace it with a unit from a Craigslist guy $1000-$1200. I would stay away from the $595-$600 type. Yes there are good guy's rebuilding and advertising on Craigslist., but it requires a good amount of research to find him. I am one of those, retired from the trade and keeping busy with the 4L60E.
4) rebuild it yourself $600-$700 will get you the proper parts to do a thorough rebuild.
In each of the 4 scenarios as it requires less money to be spent. Time, energy and frustration goes up exponentially. There is enough expertise on this forum to guide you in any way you choose. No I won't ship units, but will supply you a list of parts and what you need to do to get a thorough job done. You will also need to build a relationship with a local shop, in case you can't do something or don't have a special tool that is required
.
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Verdad Gallardo Tranzman, where are you located?
So the trans I picked up today, was supposed to be from a 99, but the tag says “4KZD”. A google search says that’s an ‘04, 4l65e, 13pin. I assume this is actually better or was the site wrong?
I might need some trans diagnostic help before I pull it to make sure it’s not something simpler.
Yesterday, driving to get it tagged, slowly accelerating through first, about the time it would shift to second it would just rev with no power transmitting through. Shutting off the ignition and restarting it would usually slightly hold first and I was able to limp it the 6 blocks home doing that multiple times, then it completely let go.
Wondering if it was some kind of heat issue, I tried it this am (cold) and nothing. This evening, however, it grabbed pretty well and I was able to pull it in the garage. Nice clunk (normal noise I’d assume) going into 1st and reverse. I’m too nervous to drive it. Anything I should look at?
Everyone is very helpful here, much appreciated!
So the trans I picked up today, was supposed to be from a 99, but the tag says “4KZD”. A google search says that’s an ‘04, 4l65e, 13pin. I assume this is actually better or was the site wrong?
I might need some trans diagnostic help before I pull it to make sure it’s not something simpler.
Yesterday, driving to get it tagged, slowly accelerating through first, about the time it would shift to second it would just rev with no power transmitting through. Shutting off the ignition and restarting it would usually slightly hold first and I was able to limp it the 6 blocks home doing that multiple times, then it completely let go.
Wondering if it was some kind of heat issue, I tried it this am (cold) and nothing. This evening, however, it grabbed pretty well and I was able to pull it in the garage. Nice clunk (normal noise I’d assume) going into 1st and reverse. I’m too nervous to drive it. Anything I should look at?
Everyone is very helpful here, much appreciated!
Honestly it sounds like the converter or something in the bellhousing is making noise. It's quiet on startup, then after a couple shifts it gets loud, then quiet again but with a ticking (like a cold start valvetrain tick) but definitely from the bellhousing area. Once the ticking starts no gears or power transmitted.
I assume a bad converter destroys the trans as well? Or is it a pull the pan and see thing?
I assume a bad converter destroys the trans as well? Or is it a pull the pan and see thing?
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
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From: Roxana, IL
Yep you have a chia pet growing on the magnet. Time to overhaul or replace it. Flush cooling lines and install a bypass transmission cooler or replace the radiator.
Did you open the 4KZD to see inside the pan?
Did you open the 4KZD to see inside the pan?
I haven’t opened the 4KZD yet. I should be able to pop it open tonight.
Any good practice for flushing the lines? Just new atf and air pressure?
Any good practice for flushing the lines? Just new atf and air pressure?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Likes: 490
From: Roxana, IL
1) Put in a new filter and risk the 4KZD unit. Hopefully it came with its own converter. I would drain that.
2) refresh that one and replace the converter.
Because I'm a builder, I would get into it and give it a good refresh. The reasoning for this is, I bench build and hear a lot of "I just put in a junk yard unit and it only lasted XXX time." It's a lot of work to remove & replace a transmission.
Best way to flush the lines/cooler is with a hot flush machine. Most DIY'ers don't have access to one of them. I recommend a can of cooler clean. Its available at most parts stores. I would definitely bypass your original cooler or replace the radiator.
I’ll probably risk the 4KZD into for the time being and rebuild the original one.
Would a shift kit help the 4KZD or should I just not put anything into it? It does have the converter.
Would a shift kit help the 4KZD or should I just not put anything into it? It does have the converter.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 677
Likes: 490
From: Roxana, IL
.500 boost valve and SK would help. If your just going to rebuild the old one and install it for the long term in the 30-60 days. I would save the $ for that one. If it will take a year to get around to it I would SK this one.