Hey guys. I'm installing a transgo HD2 shift kit on my 2004 Holden Commodore and was hoping I can get some advice on the install if I supplied some info on the car

It's LS1 with head and cam package making 400 wrhp. Has run 11.4 at 119 mph in full street trim with a set m/t semi slicks on the back. Has a dominator 3600 rpm stall converter and 3.7 gears in the diff and run standard size 18 inch rims.

I have bought the HD2 shift kit. New accumulator pistons and new AC Delco shift solenoid a and b plus service kit

Also the box has been tuned many years ago cause shifts are firmer the then stock so not sure if that needs to be addressed

And I know every recommends the sonnax boost valve but the transgo kit comes with one and I don't really want to spend another $75 if I don't have to. Are the transgo ones really that bad?

Thanks for any advice in advance fellas

 

The TransGo boost valves are fine. I have had almost no issues with them for the last 20+ years. Check your PM.

 

You may want to hook up a pressure gauge to measure the line pressure. Between the existing tune and the new .500 boost valve the line pressure could be very high.

 

High line pressure is fine...Hard to get a 60e totally out of hand.
The issue is when you have very high line pressure AND you have large separator hole sizes/accumulator changes. Mainly on the 1-2 shift.
Make the 1-2 too firm and you WILL hurt hard parts
If you see 235 in 3rd at WOT...that's ok.
But I agree...a gauge to check would be a very good idea.

 

I have a launch scanner that can watch live data. Can I hook that up and check pressure?

Holden's have a power button next to the gear selector. Mine is pretty tame driving around normally and the shifts firm up a lot when power is selected. Also allows for higher rpm before it shifts to next gear, will rev to low 7000's

I drag race the car in 3rd with power on for best results at the track

 

No, there is no factory sensor to monitor transmission pressure so your scanner will not be able to read it.
Secondly, there's alot wrong with how you're racing in my opinion.

First...7k rpm on stock transmission...bad idea. For a laundry list of reasons.
Second, racing in D3 with stock valve body is a bad idea. All that does, is apply the overrun clutches in 3rd gear...which means that during the most troublesome shift for this trans, the 2-3, you're robbing oil from the clutches that count and giving it to the overruns. Like adding a big accumulator that you don't want.
IF you have the sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve...then racing in D3 is a perfectly fine idea and I recommend you do so.

 

Yes I absolutely agree that I shouldn't be pushing a stock box that hard but Ive had this car for 11 years and it's been modified 9 years ago and it has held up quite well to the abuse lol

I always said I'd thrash the box till something let go and build it stronger but it just never broke. Now I want to start beefing it up for more power so let's consider this an introduction to learning more about 4l60e for me 😀

I race in 3rd not drive because the gearing means it will try shift to 4th by the time I get to end of 1/4 mile and makes a poor pass. Every Aussie with commodore racing the 1/4 would be leaving there box in 3rd unless they run 4.1 diff ratio which is really high and sux for highway driving

 

Hey guys so I've started installing the kit into a transmission. I hope from reading this forum I've nailed most of the tricks but I'd love to know if I'm on track. I pretty much followed the instructions but here's what I did

-No shims used in the 2nd accumulator piston
- servo band clearance was high so I installed both shims which brought clearance close to specs (full rebuild on the cards soon)
- took the check ***** out of capsule in housing for faster reverse engagement.

Parts im ordering after inspection
- sonnax shift valve for 2-3
-transgo separator plate (holes look little worn but we're not damaged to bad)
-torlon checkballs
-Corvette servo ( fitted with the truck servo according to transgo part number guide which is not a good one)
-3rd accumulator checkball capsule (as precaution)

Anything else I missed? Can I get some advice on separator plate hole sizes?

 

Leave the 1-2 hole stock. .078 if you want it firm. The increased pressure will firm that shift up on its own
.125 3rd gear
.093 band release
.110 4th if you have an active accumulator---.093 if 4th accumulator is blocked

 

Yer I'm not going to block any accumulators. Was designed that was for a reason and don't like the idea of changing it

I'm surprised you said to go smaller then kit recommends. I only have metric bits so will stick to the .078 which is a 2mm drill bit for me and use the .093 that comes in the kit for other holes and only other sizes I have a 2.5mm and 3.0mm which is .098 and .118

Is .118 ok for 3rd and 4th accumulator holes?

Before I put valve body back in is there anything else recommended to change or modify?

 

Oh and when you say 3rd hole to you mean the one that the transgo kit refer to as 2-3 shift? Cause that hole is way bigger then there suggestions

 

yes the one that is 2-3 shift...go .125

The accumulators were designed for a soft, smooth, shift you can't feel. So that when grandma got in her buick on the way to church, whe wouldn't mess up her hot rollers.

If that's a design function you'd like to keep in place...fine.

Actually...on the 1-2 DO leave the accumulator active. It helps tame a shift that can easily get TOO firm.
But the 4th accumulator...toss that thing in the bin

The reason I say go smaller than the kit recommends for the 1-2 shift is because that kit over-firms the 1-2. That way the customer feels that first shift...get's giddy with excitement that their shift kit actually did something, and they feel like their dollars went to good use.
There ARE some decent parts in the T go kit and they do make some nice parts in general. But an overly firm 1-2 shift is unnecessary and can lead to accelerated hard part wear.

when you say .118 for the 3rd and 4th accum...wtf do you mean?

 

He means feed hole in the plate. Since he only has a metric drill close to .118 and that falls right in the middle of what was recommended for 3rd and 4th feed.

 

He said 3rd and 4th accum...which is why I was confused.
If he means 3rd/4th feed...then we're all good

But if he actually means 3rd and 4th accum...then that's not what I recommend haha

 

Yep spot on lol. Sorry I meant feed holes. It was after midnight when I posted. Very tired and long day lol

Ok everything makes sense. I'll open the 3 and 4 hole a little more and leave 1-2 smaller. I didn't install any of those 3 shims in the kit so 1-2 shift wouldn't be so hard on the box. I guess if you installed those shims and opened the feed hole up its a recipe for disaster🙈

I'll stick to .118 for 3 and 4 as my next size up is to big

Thank you all for the advice fellas. Life savers. I only fix engines at work not tranny's so not used to drilling things out or changes apply pressures etc. Something you need to wrap your head around

 

Ok so here's the update. I installed everything problem free 🙈 except the check ball capsule for the 3rd accumulator. Screwed the pooch on that one. Made a little mess of it trying to get it out and was forced to remove the oil pump and reverse input drum so I could punch it out from the inside. New one has been installed and tested and it's leak free.

Now I need to order new seal kit for oil pump and one of those T50+ sockets to remove bellhousing. I guess my question is while it's all apart should I rebuild the oil pump and install one of those transgo high rev kits? Or just put it all back together and not worry

 

Yes to the transgo high rev kit.

 

Hey guys out of curiosity. The 8 holes on the separator plate you drill. I know what four of them are. 1 is band the 1&2 2&3 3&4. So what are the other 4 holes we enlarge for?

I noticed 1 didn't even need drilling and the other 3 got widened up a bit. Was just wondering and couldn't find any answers online.

 

one is for TCC reg feed
One is for AFL reg feed
1-2
2-3
3-4
band release
reverse apply
forward apply

Yes to the transgo high rev kit
if you already have the pump and RI housing off...might as well pull the input drum and freshen up the 3/4's and add the 7-cs springs from transgo

 

I actually found the 3/4 clutches worn and the sprags also as spins both ways. I've decided to go for a full rebuild now the box is out

Overhaul kit
Borg Warner high energy friction and band
Sonnax smartshell
2x new sprag
Oil pump overhaul + high rev
sonnax input drum reinforcement sleeve

I will obviously reseal the input shaft in the drum as so many recommend ( before I install the sleeve kit I believe)

The only question I have is I only have 6 friction in the 3/4 clutch pack and I'd like to go maybe the 8 friction set up but don't know what size steels to ask for? Any advice on the subject?